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ASHP – Should do better - Must Do Better

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  • lovesgshp wrote: »
    Sorry that you feel the way you do, but there are people on here that possibly could help you optimise the system.
    You believe the company that installed it and their thoughts, but there is nothing anyone on here can advise you, as you just want to believe what they say.
    This is a forum to help with problems.

    LOVESGSHP - perhaps you can help me on my other post in the other topic... Please if you wouldn't mind or I could drop you a message? My understanding and knowledge is air to air not air to water.
    If you found my post helpful, please remember to press the THANKS button! --->
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 9,076 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 19 February 2015 at 3:01PM
    Was yours a retrofit (ie boiler replacement) onto an existing system or a completely new heating system.

    There has been a lot of criticism of Husky heatpumps although I don't know whether it's actually justified or not.

    As said above, heatpumps are completely different to oil or gas boilers and need to be operated differently. They do not have a fast response like a conventional boiler and are designed to run at a much lower temperature (30-35 degrees rather than 70-80).

    Just bunging one on the front of an existing heating system is unlikely to work satisfactorily as the radiators won't usually be large enough to heat the house at the lower flow temperatures. Turning the temperature up to compensate will just increase the running cost and still may not produce enough heat or cause an immersion back-up heater to kick in.

    That doesn't make the heatpump concept useless it just shows that it needs to be installed and operated correctly.
    Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers
  • I have spent a great deal of time studying the system that I bought but it would be fair to say that there are things that I don't understand about it. For example...why does the water need to be kept at 30 degrees to "protect itself" ?...why when the thermostat has been turned down, does the heat pump carry on running for an hour? There were few instructions with the system and I had to get my information by phone from Husky. I will describe how the temperature is controlled. It isn't a dial on the wall that I can simply turn up or down. Go to control panel. Press and hold the enter key for 7 seconds. Using the up and down keys, select 111. Press M. Using the up and down keys select desired room temperature. Press enter key. Press C. Now I know that doesn't take a genius to do this but it it isn't intuitive and is considerably more complicated than rotating a dial.
  • scheissefuergehirn
    scheissefuergehirn Posts: 14 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary Combo Breaker
    edited 19 February 2015 at 3:09PM
    So many posts. This is getting complicated. The heat pump itself ran for an hour after the settings were turned down. I wasn't rubbishing heat pumps. I just think that they aren't the bees knees. I think my main problem with them (mine) is the noise. I suspect my neighbours aren't impressed with hearing it running in the middle of the night.
  • You should have a hallway thermostst or room thermostst of some kind you shouldnt be having to mess with the main controller
    If you found my post helpful, please remember to press the THANKS button! --->
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts
    Seems like you have no room sensor control. This should allow you to apply a influence to the external air temp sensor, to stop having to keep you or it adjusting.
    When you say the hot water has to be kept at 30C, are you referring to DHW or the rad system?
    Is there a buffer tank installed?
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • scheissefuergehirn
    scheissefuergehirn Posts: 14 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary Combo Breaker
    edited 19 February 2015 at 3:30PM
    There is a sensor in the living room. The 30 degrees the system is programmed to maintain is the central heating water temperature (in the buffer tank)
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts
    There is a sensor in the living room. The 30 degrees the system is programmed to maintain is the central heating water temperature (in the buffer tank)

    If you are using rads, then that is too low for the buffer tank, it needs to be at least 45C.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • The water temperature varies between 30 and 47 degrees depending on what is required to heat the living room to 21 degrees. It kept the water at 30 degrees even when I turned the living room required temperature down to 10 degrees so my house was kept much warmer than 10 degrees whilst I was away.
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts
    The water temperature varies between 30 and 47 degrees depending on what is required to heat the living room to 21 degrees. It kept the water at 30 degrees even when I turned the living room required temperature down to 10 degrees so my house was kept much warmer than 10 degrees whilst I was away.

    You have a set-up problem somewhere, as far as I can see. If you turn the room temp down to 10C, then unless there is a lot of sunlight coming in to increase it.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
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