Ground Source Heat Pumps

DeeWestern

lovesgshp wrote: »

Can you please send me a better picture of the top of the DHW tank, as I think the air bleed is behind where you have arrowed the anode. It looks like the short pipe that has a sensor lead going round the outside of it.

This just seems capped off:


But I found a key:


And this is no 7: (misleading photo, doesn't really have a silver pipe coming out the top!):

lovesgshp

Thanks.
3Way valve looks like it is working properly and at least you have the LK one which is now considered the most reliable.
Go through the other checks I suggested as you now have the front cover off. We also may need to alter some circulating pump speeds, but that's for later if we cannot resolve!!

DeeWestern

lovesgshp wrote: »

1) Open all radiator valves fully especially if they are thermostatic valves. Also make sure there is no air in the rad system. Do I do this by bleeding every radiator? Or is everything OK if the rads are warm from top to bottom
2) Recheck the internal filter.
3) In the I/S menu on manual operation, confirm that the 3 way valve is fully opening and closing. If it is sticking then try some WD40. Seems like this is OK, but is there some way to check? It does seem to 'leak' heat in to the wrong pipe a bit. Where does the WD40 go?
4) Check the circulating pump below the filter is free moving. Unscrew the central access point and insert a screwdriver to ensure the vanes are turning freely. Follow that with the manual operation in I/S as above.This seems hard to mess up!

Front cover has been loose since March! Assuming everything is OK when I check tomorrow, is there something I can do to the pump speeds to keep making progress?

lovesgshp

Hot side is the one inside the main pump casing. Cold is from the ground loops, which from your readings appear to be within limits.

lovesgshp

Go through all the other checks first and yes bleed all the rads, just for elimination.
Can you tell me the heat carrier pump speed and also the speed of the other external circulating pump?
The 2 filters you mention are, the GT8/GT9 hot side and the GT10/GT11 ground loop. No other filters are there.

DeeWestern

lovesgshp wrote: »

Can you tell me the heat carrier pump speed and also the speed of the other external circulating pump?

How do I read that? Are the pumps the things that look like the black and silver gadget in the top of this picture?

lovesgshp

The pumps will have a 1/2/3 speed setting on each of them, usually 1/11/111.
You may need a mirror to look at the one inside the main heat pump unit!!

DeeWestern

The pump iinked to the smaller cylinder is set to 3, and is whirring away:


The pump underneath the filter in the biggest box is also sadly set to 3, but clearly been fiddled with:


I unscrewed the middle screw, and loads of water came out (even with the switch above the filter turned off. Think some small white bits of crud also came out. Couldn't really see anything in the hole, but my screwdriver turned freely when I put it in.

Setting the pump off manually made it spin:


Put it all back together, and got an alarm shortly after it was turned on.

All radiators are set to full, and have been bled (similar to what we did in March). 3 way valve seems to be turning ok as well. I opened up the air vent on the DHW and water came out straight away.

lovesgshp

Thanks.
Have you rechecked the filter?
What is the temp increase/decrease set at in the menu? It should be between 4 & 6.5
Are there any other adjustments to the heat curves that have been made?
Cannot remember if I sent you the Rego simulator,

DeeWestern

I didn't check the filter yet, as I need to get a bigger spanner - but this was checked in March and was clear then, with all the alarms going off regularly.

The temperature change is set to 6.5

No other changes to the heat curve that I'm aware of, and the house is just warm enough so don't really want to fiddle here unless it will fix something - the system generally works fine, it's just annoying with the beeps! I don't have a simulator.