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Boiler/Heating help please
Comments
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The header tank being the one full of cold water in the loft? It is full and if I 'trick' the ballcock by pushing it down it fills up.
I haven't managed to drain anything off yet as my hosepipe is outside and frozen solid, it's cold in here but even worse out there!!He who laughs last, thinks slowest0 -
OP: you need to clarify which tank you have checked i.e. expansion tank (small tank) as I asked in Post 12 or the cold water storage cistern (large tank)?
GSRAsk to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Oh I'm just suggesting possibilities and wasn't trying to disprove anything. A complete blockage at that point would cause the system to pump over but as the OP has not reported that circumstance he could have a partial but, whatever, it will still have an effect on system operation.Keystone...So maybe it is..i'm happy to be disproven and agree it's worth a shot! I'm just saying i have my doubts that a blocked cold feed will cause the symptoms without also taking out the hot water too.
OP BTW as a method of eliminating the zone valve heads from the equation what happens if you remove the heads completely and operate the valves by hand? Take this option lower down the list than those you have already been asked to look at - one thing at a time.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
Canucklehead wrote: »OP: you need to clarify which tank you have checked i.e. expansion tank (small tank) as I asked in Post 12 or the cold water storage cistern (large tank)?
GSR
lol, didn't realise there was another one hiding behind it!!
Well, the smaller one looked pretty grubby, it didn't have anything over it (the large one has some sort of insulated bin bag on it) and was probably about 2-3 inches deep.
The ballcock looked like it had been bent to make it lower, not sure how much water is supposed to be in there really. I pressed the ballcock down a bit and more water went into it.
I can take a picture if it would help?
Thanks again allHe who laughs last, thinks slowest0 -
Just checked the boiler model and it's a Baxi Bermuda 45/4eHe who laughs last, thinks slowest0
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lol, didn't realise there was another one hiding behind it!!
Well, the smaller one looked pretty grubby, it didn't have anything over it (the large one has some sort of insulated bin bag on it) and was probably about 2-3 inches deep.
The ballcock looked like it had been bent to make it lower, not sure how much water is supposed to be in there really. I pressed the ballcock down a bit and more water went into it.
I can take a picture if it would help?
Thanks again all
Yes take a pic.;) says a lot.
It has water in it which is good. It doesn't need much as it just sits there taking up the expansion of the system.
The large one should have a lid and the insulation over it, not a piece of wood ,a plastic lid. Not unusual to find nothing though, just the insulation.
As has been said boiler stat to max.would be better.
Find a small screwdriver, go to the cylinder stat . Turn the temp up and down. It will click. The motorised valve will open and close accordingly. Leave the cylinder stat on 60 degrees.
The same applies to the room stat and the other valve. (A second person helps with that one)
GSRAsk to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Sorry for poor quality of pic, easiest to use my phone though

The cylinder stat has been set to 60 since about March, turning it up and down there's no click.
The room stat will click on and off at about 12-14 degrees (it's been set to 30 for 4 hours now)
Not sure what you mean by 'the other valve'?
Both the hot water and heating are on, the bottom blue box lever is locked down, the top blue box lever is up, but can be moved down if necessary.
I'll turn the boiler stat up, should I put it to max for a bit and see what happens?He who laughs last, thinks slowest0 -
Hi,
Is there something on the end of the open vent. (that's the 22mm pipe over the top of the tank).
You have adjusted the cyl stat from it's max to it's min and the there's no click?
New Stat needed.
'The other valve' is the other blue valve near the floor that's the c/h one.
Turning the room stat up and down will operate it.
GSRAsk to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Cold water tank or hot water tank?
Will have to wait for my wife to come back to test blue valve, presume when room stat clicks on it should move down, off it will move back up. Pretty much as soon as it clicks?
Yea definitely think tank stat needs replacing.
Boiler was set to about a third, have upped it to 2 thirdsHe who laughs last, thinks slowest0 -
The room stat clicks on and makes the blue valve open, then close when it clicks off
I took the tank stat off and if you press the metal strip the top valve goes off, let go of the strip and it goes back on again (presumably how it works) when I put it back on I turned the temp gauge again and noticed there was a click, but right at the lower end of the scale, literally the bottom, have set it back to 60
I took the lower blue motor off and the valve it opens moves freely from closed to open (although it takes less than a quarter of a turn to go from open to closed)
Seems to me all of that stuff is working, but the kitchen is still 10 degrees and upstairs bedroom 15 (quite a small bedroom)He who laughs last, thinks slowest0
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