Shabby Chic; Volume III

chalkysoil

steve_2012 wrote: »

anyone have any links to DIY homemade crackle finish on HMCP.

I can't find a link but I did crackle with PVA over cp, then more cp from a thing I saw on pinterest. The cracks went in the direction of the brush strokes. One I did was good, one not so good, more colour contrast helps the effect.

steve_2012

chalkysoil wrote: »

I can't find a link but I did crackle with PVA over cp, then more cp from a thing I saw on pinterest. The cracks went in the direction of the brush strokes. One I did was good, one not so good, more colour contrast helps the effect.

thanks chalkysoil, i will have a search around google, see what i can find ref using PVA, i thought there had been something on here ref PVA and crackle finish.

emma_kate

manda1205 wrote: »

I'm buying some frames that look very similar to these;



Because of the colour choice I was thinking of getting some eggshell paint (like the look of laura ashley but may just pop into b&q) and painting them. Can anybody advise please, do I need to sand and prime if using eggshell? The frames are plastic/wood so not sure would sand very well anyway. Or would I be better to forget eggshell and use spray paint? (not so many colours to choose from though). Or do I go down the chalk paint route? Not going to make my own, would buy some, any recommendations? Many thanks.

I did one that was plastic with just waterbased primer and matt emulsion. It was fine but I did give it a good wash with washing up liquid first as it was minging. I'd do that or use sugar soap...

manda1205

emma_kate wrote: »

I did one that was plastic with just waterbased primer and matt emulsion. It was fine but I did give it a good wash with washing up liquid first as it was minging. I'd do that or use sugar soap...

Thank you. That sounds a much better option as then I can just use the emulsion I've used as feature walls, so they will match better.

emma_kate

chalkysoil wrote: »

I can't find a link but I did crackle with PVA over cp, then more cp from a thing I saw on pinterest. The cracks went in the direction of the brush strokes. One I did was good, one not so good, more colour contrast helps the effect.

Is it waterbased paint on still tacky oil based varnish? Can't remember...:doh:

jumblejack

Has anyone done raised stencils with jointing compound? Only thing is, the only suitable all purpose jointing compound I can find is frommWicjes in massive bucket tubs.

I only need a bit

Seakay

steve_2012 wrote: »

anyone have any links to DIY homemade crackle finish on HMCP.

I found this on the AS site:

http://www.anniesloan.com/acatalog/Crackle_Paint.html

chalkysoil

Seakay wrote: »

I found this on the AS site:

http://www.anniesloan.com/acatalog/Crackle_Paint.html

"use a hair dryer on it immediately and it will crack. Bring out the cracks by first using clear wax then using Annie Sloan Dark Soft Wax rubbed into the cracks. "


wow, must try that!


just thought - I haven't got a hairdryer but I expect the fan heater would do!

chalkysoil

jumblejack wrote: »

Has anyone done raised stencils with jointing compound? Only thing is, the only suitable all purpose jointing compound I can find is frommWicjes in massive bucket tubs.

I only need a bit

What is jointing compound anyway? Would mastic/silica gel stuff from a gun do instead.




read this on wiki
Powdered drying typeURL="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Joint_compound&action=edit&section=3"][COLOR=#0066cc]edit[/COLOR][/URL

Powered drying type compounds are available.
Setting typeURL="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Joint_compound&action=edit&section=4"][COLOR=#0066cc]edit[/COLOR][/URL

Setting type joint compounds come in powder form and are mixed with water immediately before use. This type contains plaster of paris and sets through a chemical hardening process rather than evaporation which gives it an advantage in filling holes and gaps which would take many days to dry out and have shrinkage cracks using the drying compound. Setting type compounds are available in different setting times from 20 to 90 minutes and types which bond extremely well and are very hard and types which are soft and easy to sand. Once mixed with water the setting type must be used before it sets, any left over is wasted and if not enough is mixed another batch is needed to finish making, and all tools must be very clean or the compound may set up prematurely




I wonder if mixing P of P and water and PVA would be much the same?

got-it-spend-it

Newbie question- can I add plaster or Paris to paint to make chalk paint?