Shabby Chic; Volume III

steve_2012

emma_kate wrote: »

Ah, apparently Briwax over ASCP can lead to problems. Read the comments after the post.http://bluestarantiques.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/a-french-desk-worth-waiting-for.html
Very nice though!

strange one, ive used it now with 3 different colour creams using HMCP and not had an issue.
i wonder if the pigments that make the colours ie: blues and greens could cause problems.
not so many years back when bottle green and royal blue tiles were popular for kitchen splashbacks there were issues with crackling of the glaze which was made worse if you used citrus or got dairy products on the tiles.
it was said from what i can remember that the dark greens and blues were particularly hard colours to get pigment to create the glaze.
so i wonder if this may still have some bearing on what is happening and causing what can only be a reaction of sorts.
ive yet to use colours other than creams.

emma_kate

It looks like an adhesion issue. Maybe she never sugar soaped. Don't forget ASCP is a very different recipe. I guess also if there's solvent in the Briwax this may dissolve the paint.

steve_2012

i went totally mad yesterday and bought a 2.5" angled, 3" normal and a 15mm round pointy brush.
there called wooster chinex FTP brushes.
ive had a good read up on them on decorators and furniture refurbers forums http://traditionalpainter.com/battle-for-the-best-paint-brush and there really isnt a bad word about them.
the bad bit is they cost me £38.
"your mad" "i know" but my tools last me forever if there good so to me its an investment of sorts.
i still currently use a tile cutter i bought at 16 years old (now 50+), it is only used for small tiles but still performs at 80% of what it did back then.
i actually won a £300 cutter for having the oldest working/still in use rubi cutter in the country a few years back.
anyway yes im making excuses for my extravagance but it did come out of fathers day money so thats nice as well.
as anybody else heard of or used these brushes?.

chalkysoil

no, but I do like brushes and really notice the difference between good and bad ones. Let us know how you get on. I'm currently using some Wilko ones which I love, but are discontinued now. I'm looking around for a good waxing brush but the ASCP etc ones are really too expensive.

emma_kate

I agree Steve, you do get what you pay for. Having said that my wax brush is a fat natural bristle paintbrush with the handle sawn off and it's just great!

Smoosh

I've been reading through this thread for a while trying to get the hang of it, but since I finally recently acquired some lovely (free!) furniture to do up, I thought I'd ask some questions before I start on it!

I have a sideboard, 4 chairs and a corner unit all made of a dark varnished oak. I want to make some chalk paint and paint them using this, but should I sand it all first, or will the chalk paint cover it?

chalkysoil

I never sand before using chalk paint, but a good clean is advisable - with sugar soap ideally. The varnish will look a bit thrashed afterwards. If you give it a light sand ( like 3 mins per item, ) it would help the chalk paint. Best to practice on something before you launch on to the good stuff, although anything can be sanded off or painted over!

Rarely I've had weird varnish stains on 1930's furniture - it bleeds though in pink spots or similar. Not on modern stuff though.

Have fun!

I've been feng shui ing the garage (man cave) all week - it looked like an episode of Hoarders, and today I've been painting the floor with concrete sealer. Not finished yet as I couldn't move all the carp out of it so painted around it ...

steve_2012

Smoosh wrote: »

I've been reading through this thread for a while trying to get the hang of it, but since I finally recently acquired some lovely (free!) furniture to do up, I thought I'd ask some questions before I start on it!

I have a sideboard, 4 chairs and a corner unit all made of a dark varnished oak. I want to make some chalk paint and paint them using this, but should I sand it all first, or will the chalk paint cover it?

very far from expert advice but no you dont have to sand it all down. but it certainly wont hurt and is probably better to just give it a scratch sanding ie 20 to 30 mins to do the whole lot that you have.
giving a key is better than no key, this also i believe applies too pine but tread very carefully around knots because if you take off too much around them they can bleed through your paint.
there will be others along later too give more experienced advice.

steve_2012

where like buses here lol.

Nicnax

The latest purchase to add to queue of projects



I picked it up yesterday at a church summer fayre for the grand sum of £1. It's quite big, just under 16" across.