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Shabby Chic; Volume III
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Memorygirl - fabulous sofa upholstery - have read your link but more detail on the make please!0
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Ideally, an orbital sander is best (they cost approx £20 in aldi), they have a large surface area and you get a smooth finish quickly. A Palm sander can also do the job but with a small surface area on them, it can be hard to get a perfectly smooth finish. Hand sand paper can do the job but it is hard hard work for a large area.
With the orangey pine, be aware that if it is the wood that has turned orange, then sanding will only bring a temporary colour change. All wood darkens over time and some cheaper pine turns orangey and this is not permanently reversible. If it is good quality pine that has simply had a nasty coloured varnish applied then you will get a better, longer lasting result from sanding it off. I don't want to put a dampener on things, but I have put hard work into some of my own projects only to find that some woods are not for changing!
Thanks, really useful advice. I didn't know that about pine. I wonder what will happen. Was planning on heading to Aldi for the first time ever (!) this afternoon so will suss out the orbital sander.0 -
Sorry to be a pain, but can I ask for some advice after sanding the top? I think I've read on this thread that you just wax the wood post-sanding. I want a really natural finish and already have a pot of beeswax... would I just rub that on? Would varnish be better at protecting? (Although I don't want a shiny finish)
Thanks in advance!0 -
Yay! Finally posted enough to show photos of my pride and joy projects inspired by all you wonderful people. I am by no means an expert but everyone project I do I learn something new!!
tmp_photo by maybemay, on Flickr
DSC07192 by maybemay, on Flickr
IMAG0010 by maybemay, on Flickr
DSC07185 by maybemay, on Flickr0 -
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Sorry to be a pain, but can I ask for some advice after sanding the top? I think I've read on this thread that you just wax the wood post-sanding. I want a really natural finish and already have a pot of beeswax... would I just rub that on? Would varnish be better at protecting? (Although I don't want a shiny finish)
Thanks in advance!
I use Rustins Danish Oil which is natural and matt. (Avoid Colron Danish oil like the plague - it builds up shine!)
If you search under my name for Rustins, I have written up what I do with it, somewhere on here.0 -
Although I sanded the edges to create a distressed look, the drawers have been really sticky and now look a little more than 'distressed' lol. I haven't really been a perfectionist with my furniture...
Beautiful - thanks for the pics!
A tip that I learned (a little late for some projects...) is to sand off a mm or so from the top of the drawer sides and front, to allow for the paint you will add on, and still ensure it fits back in. Once it is fully dry, you can add a drop of lubricant to the runners to help it open and close smoothly. You can buy a product in Lakeland, which is a silicon lubricant called 'free and easy', which sounds a bit rude when you have to explain it to the SA, but they are too polite in there to let themselves smirk like the young lads in a DIY store might......:p
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they look fab well done0 -
tara747
20-06-2011, 12:09 PM
omg!
I got one for 50p too last saturday( in New Romney) but I had no idea what it was, or that it was posh! It was in a grimey polythene bag but I liked the look of it.
this thread never ceases to amaze me:T
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Yay! Finally posted enough to show photos of my pride and joy projects inspired by all you wonderful people. I am by no means an expert but everyone project I do I learn something new!!
tmp_photo by maybemay, on Flickr
DSC07192 by maybemay, on Flickr
IMAG0010 by maybemay, on Flickr
DSC07185 by maybemay, on Flickr
Really lovely piecesm well done0
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