Anyone used Rointe heaters?

Richie-from-the-Boro

Cardew wrote: »

If in a hole and want to get out - stop digging!

So in terms of 'type of heat' what is the difference between the two radiators you bought for £3,500 and, say two similar powered radiators costing £100 each.

Yours are filled with clay?? and the £100 models with oil.

If you want effective heat from the Dry irons I suggest you buy half a dozen. As was stated before they won't continuously consume 1kW as the thermostat works on the temperature of the plate; and of course they will possibly only last a few weeks; but at £12 each or so that won't be a problem.

Plug them into a thermostatically controlled adapter like this USA model:

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

A small fan will distribute the heat produced.

As for siting the irons, Well you don't want them in a position where children, pets or idiots could come into contact with them - would that be a problem in your house?

HiYa Cardew,

- thought you might like this

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melanie_king

Great info about the shortened URLs - not even Martin or the team can post those.

Oh how embarrassing. Here's an (equally juvenile) image that perhaps can be related to.

tiny u r l dot com/coayws4

Thanks anyway for attempting to at least deal with the points raised. How odd that the sensation produced by halogen heaters can be felt (and differentiated from other types of heating effects by those felt sensations) but subjective experience has no valued outcome. What a tangle. Although we've now ironed out (hehe) the fact that the type of heat transfer is important, perhaps a semantic debate could have been avoided by removing the word 'subjective' from the question; thus becoming:

1) is it ok to pooh-pooh said heat's distribution in terms of the experience of the room's occupants?

Anyway...

There's something surely fruitful in the idea of continuously consuming kWs. I wonder how warmly received (forgive me) the idea is that first, more or less effective convection mechanisms exist and secondly, that a more effective convector activates a well placed, wall-mounted thermostat more quickly than its less effective cousin? Perhaps its halogen cousin!

penrhyn

Anyone seen the banana proof that god exists?

Cavell123

Not sure if this is the right place to post this question but here goes. Do induction hobs use less electricity then ceramic ones? I have seen several sites which say they are more efficient then ceramic, but after the comments on Rointe heaters i am sceptical.

All the sites say induction hobs take a third of the time to boil a litre of water then ceramic hobs, but none of them say if they draw more power to do this.

I understand how induction hobs work, i know will need iron pots and they cost more, but are they really more efficient then ceramic?

Thanks

Cardew

Cavell123 wrote: »

Do induction hobs use less electricity then ceramic ones?

They don't produce any more heat for the power used, but their higher efficiency is because there is less wasted heat.

From WHICH:

Induction hobs

Induction hobs heat only the pan – rather than the cooking surface heating up, a magnetic field is created between the pan and an element underneath the glass top. This means you can touch the adjacent surface without burning yourself. The area around the pan will reach about 45°C after a few minutes,
while the same area for ceramic hobs reaches more than 100°C.


Induction hobs are quicker than other types of hob, and are cheaper to run because they use only the amount of energy you need.

Richie-from-the-Boro

Cardew wrote: »

They don't produce any more heat for the power used, but their higher efficiency is because there is less wasted heat.

From WHICH:

Induction hobs

I've had an induction hob for years, you do not need 'iron' pots there are lots of the usual SS offerings with 'iron layered bases. Be warned the cost of an induction hob can be the cost of induction-compatible panware, in my case well over £1300 for a fissler set.

An induction hob works like a back to front microwave, it will as you say 'do what it does quicker', today's electric kettles break quicker than a footballers fingernail. Pay £4 at ASDA or £60 elsewhere, they just break. A cheepo ferrous kettle will boil on an induction hob quicker than the most expensive electric kettle and will last forever. By the time the coffee & milk is in the cups its boiled.

- iron pots will work fine but be aware that the vessel bottom must be perfectly flat, ironware usually is not perfectly flat
- the O/P might be confused between induction & Rointe, they are not interconnected
- the O/P needs to consider the total use of all induction hob heating rings
- they can, even with 'chaos distribution' easily require an 11kW connection
- the diversity formula has been safe since the old king died at 15KW
- because makers confuse by quoting max connected, not not max operating loads I played safe and put a new 45a in to the hob

penrhyn

My daughter puts the coffee/tea and milk in the mug before the hot water goes in. This is not right. The tea don't brew and the granules don't dissolve. Milk goes in last, I thank you. O yes she just got an induction hpb!

Richie-from-the-Boro

penrhyn wrote: »

My daughter puts the coffee/tea and milk in the mug before the hot water goes in. This is not right. The tea don't brew and the granules don't dissolve. Milk goes in last, I thank you. O yes she just got an induction hpb!

- she'll love it, the new hob, a control phreaks dream !
- I've just re-read my own #, it looks like I'm knocking induction hobs
- I'm not - I'll never ever have anything else, its the best money I ever wasted
- man thing - hob takes all of 16 seconds to clean, anyway it gets dusty before it gets dirty

derek7

My wife and I are both retired and live in a 3 bedroom middle of terrace house built in 1963. We are mostly at home during the day, which became of particular concern this winter because of the severity and length of the cold spell.
Anyway, while googling the subject of household energy conservation, I came across a site which placed great importance on the effect draughts could have on heat loss in the home. Having plenty of time, I set about locating any place where there might be an ingress of cold air. I found literally dozens, including the hole which had been drilled for the telephone line, the area where the tumble dryer vented into the garden, and minute leaks around the double glazing frames. Some of these were so tiny, I could only locate them with a wet finger.
Having completed the task, we now have the central heating on only until 7pm, and the indoor temperature does not fall below 18/19 degrees C. overnight. A bonus is, of course, that we have also reduced the 'on' time for the Combi boiler.
I would never have thought I could have made such a huge difference by just eliminating draughts, and would advise others to do the same.

[Deleted User]

gogzee wrote: »

We've currently got storage heaters as we don't have gas but they are proving to be very expensive to use.
A friend has suggested these as a replacement and their sales blurb seems quite convincing but cannot find any real world reviews anywhere

Whilst I'm not a chartered electrical engineer, we've recently had some first-hand experience of these heaters which you may find helpful...

About 18 months ago we project managed the refurbishment of a farmhouse which was heated by storage radiators. Due to the remote location central heating options were limited to: renewing the storage heaters on the existing Economy 7 tariff, oil-fired central heating, propane gas, electric flow boiler on an Economy 10 tariff, solid fuel and Rointe radiators. A renewable energy source wasn't an option due to various factors.

After a great deal of research, cost estimates and feedback from other clients we opted for Rointe heaters. The Economy 7 meter was removed and a standard rate meter was installed. The Rointe heaters have proved to be very good indeed and have resulted in a reduction in annual electricity costs by circa 20%.

However, anyone considering these heaters MUST consider a number of factors before they commit - shop around for the lowest possible standard rate tariff, make sure the heaters are correctly sized for the rooms they are to heat (if they're under-sized they'll be on constantly), consider the construction and location of the building when sizing the radiators (old buildings have a much higher rate of heat loss than modern buildings), ensure that the thermal insulation levels are as high as possible (we didn't need to upgrade the insulation on this project so we can make a direct comparison) and make sure that each individual radiator is programmed to suit the room it is in.

What the tenant has found is that when the radiators come on they heat the room up very quickly so tweaking the switch-on times for each room will pay dividends. Personally I think this is the main reason for the saving in running costs as each radiator can be programmed independently to suit occupation levels and times of use.

Hope you find this helpful.