Wood burning stoves>

guy0wen

i have 5 kw stove and my lounge is 3.6 x 3.4 m and is 2.6m tall and its just right running on high.

hugh3s

Without wanting to sound a real doughnut, how does installing a woodburner work on a traditional fireplace. At the mo I've got a bog-standard inset gas fire, and from pulling it away it has what i assume to be a traditional sized opening. Behind this the chimney goes up a bit, angles away 45 degrees than vertically again i presume out to the roof. The only woodburners i have seen have vertical flues, how would it work it my case, I think i may be missing something. Plus do any woodburners fit a traditional fireplace opening, or would I have to remove brickwork?

Thanks in advance

crphillips

If you can create a recess within your fireplace of at least 750mm wide and 850mm hight then you will be able to fit a stove in it. If your recess is bigger then you can fit a bigger stove if your room size requires it. Most stoves require a 6inch air gap either side and 12 inch above. The flue will exit the stove and go through a closure plate which is fitted to the underside of your chimney. I would then suggest having the chimney lined if it isn't as this will improve it's performance, ensure it's gas tight, make it easy to sweep quickly, thoroughly and cleanly, eradicate issues with tar and condensation soaking through brickwork..........along with loads of other benefits. Try and find a reputable HETAS registered installer. If any of your neighbours or friends have a stove then this would be a good starting point if they were happy with their fitter.

hugh3s

crphillips wrote: »

If you can create a recess within your fireplace of at least 750mm wide and 850mm hight then you will be able to fit a stove in it. If your recess is bigger then you can fit a bigger stove if your room size requires it. Most stoves require a 6inch air gap either side and 12 inch above. The flue will exit the stove and go through a closure plate which is fitted to the underside of your chimney. I would then suggest having the chimney lined if it isn't as this will improve it's performance, ensure it's gas tight, make it easy to sweep quickly, thoroughly and cleanly, eradicate issues with tar and condensation soaking through brickwork..........along with loads of other benefits. Try and find a reputable HETAS registered installer. If any of your neighbours or friends have a stove then this would be a good starting point if they were happy with their fitter.

Hi mate, you seem to be clued up about all this. Would you recommend (bearing in mind cost) the 904 liner over the 316. Going by ebay, sales of 316 6" flues are very high, while none have been sold of the 904 standard. Is this beacuse installers want to do a cheap version for customers or just because the cost doesnt justify the reward?

aliballi

hugh3s wrote: »

Hi mate, you seem to be clued up about all this. Would you recommend (bearing in mind cost) the 904 liner over the 316. Going by ebay, sales of 316 6" flues are very high, while none have been sold of the 904 standard. Is this beacuse installers want to do a cheap version for customers or just because the cost doesnt justify the reward?

I'm no expert &hope you don't mind me replying, but I have been looking into this, myself. From what I can gather 904/904 is recommended as it has far longer life, longer guarantee & allows one to burn coal as well as wood.

I've been looking at where to buy & have come across The Greener Company, which seems very competitive, unless anyone else knows of anyone better?

hethmar

crphillips is a HETAS fitter - thats why he knows what he is talking about My OH is also a HETAS fitter - he fits ONLY 904/904 linings (there are liners which people may call 904 but they are 904/316 - a mixture). Our 904 have a 25 year warranty. The 316 have a 10 year warranty. I would have thought registered installers wouldnt be looking on ebay to buy their materials - the only time we had to buy other than our normal supplier - who had run out of the size we needed one frantic winter about 3 years back(and who we have been with 27 years) the material that arrived from our internet purchase was rubbish, dented and the inside was "leafed". OH sent it back and the second lot was just as bad. It took them 3 goes before OH accepted a liner length and he never bought from the internet again, even though it was cheaper - he wants to do a good job and not have to return once he leaves a customer's house. He has lost jobs or indeed turned jobs down because customers want a cheaper job and he will not cut corners. You can get installers who are little better, in fact probably worse, than a householder who is intent on doing the job to exacting requirments themselves and then having it signed off by local building control.

If you are going to do the job yourself, remember you need all the accessories and also insulation material plus buildings control approval.

welda

If I remember correctly, 316 ss liner for burning wood only. 316 outer, 904 inner if multi fuel stove is to be installed, when burning the various types of coal corrosive gases are given off, 904 ss copes better with corrosion aspects?

Please feel free for board sages to correct me if wrong?

Cheers.

hethmar

[QUOTE=thejointmaster;I_have_had_a_Dunsley_Yorkshire_wood_burning_boiler_stove_for_nearly_a__year_now_and_thought_it_time_to_sweep_the_flue._I_borrowed_a_set_of_rods__and_brush_and_had_the_job_done_in_half_an_hour,_but_all_I_got_out_was__about_a_large_jam_jar_full_of_grainy_soot._I_swept_it_twice_to_be_sure__but_no_more_came_out.[/QUOTE]

My one worry about this is that if a chimney is tarred, the tar will stick to the inside so well that sweep brushes simply push past it and wont remove it. Have you looked up the chimney with a torch - if you can see shiny deposits then you have a build up of resin which can catch fire. You should, hopefully, see just a dull black covering.

(To ensure you comply with your stove and lining warranties you should actually be using a sweep who issues you a certificate).

hugh3s

hethmar wrote: »

crphillips is a HETAS fitter - thats why he knows what he is talking about My OH is also a HETAS fitter - he fits ONLY 904/904 linings (there are liners which people may call 904 but they are 904/316 - a mixture). Our 904 have a 25 year warranty. The 316 have a 10 year warranty. I would have thought registered installers wouldnt be looking on ebay to buy their materials - the only time we had to buy other than our normal supplier - who had run out of the size we needed one frantic winter about 3 years back(and who we have been with 27 years) the material that arrived from our internet purchase was rubbish, dented and the inside was "leafed". OH sent it back and the second lot was just as bad. It took them 3 goes before OH accepted a liner length and he never bought from the internet again, even though it was cheaper - he wants to do a good job and not have to return once he leaves a customer's house. He has lost jobs or indeed turned jobs down because customers want a cheaper job and he will not cut corners. You can get installers who are little better, in fact probably worse, than a householder who is intent on doing the job to exacting requirments themselves and then having it signed off by local building control.

If you are going to do the job yourself, remember you need all the accessories and also insulation material plus buildings control approval.

Thnaks for the advice, it is very much appreciated. I'm having a builder mate knock out the fireplace to accommodate a stove, replaster and tidy up and install the liner when i get it for 300 squid labour costs, so just gotta pick up a stove on the cheap and a decent liner, flue, cowl and adapter. I'm a junior surveyor and tbh my advice is dont bother with building control if you do it yourself or without a hetas installer, £150 quid to tick a few boxes is a con. Just my opinion mind, I'm sure people will say otherwise.

The living room is small, 4.5m x 4m x 2.4m, but its a solid stone end terrace (750mm thick walls) and it gets positively freezing in the winter, and with the cold weather it brings damp. As the gas CH doesnt really make a big difference, I am looking to get something big (my mate could sell me his 11kw stovax stockton), which although people will say is too big can I not just counter that by opening all the doors in the house and let the air circulate?

welda

11kw is massive for room dimensions, and yes, heat will dissapate leaving doors open, main point you have to consider is this, 11kw will consume a lot of wood per evening, stoves run better when they are run at full pelt, I have a small 5kw, I know what it is like feeding it on a really cold night.

Small is beautiful (so the wife says:)) gives the wood pile a tad more longevity over a season.

I have to agree with you re;BC, these jobsworths get it too easy ticking boxes!!