Potterton Suprima 50 Lock Out problem

maunder_2

I had this problem about a year ago - amongst other thing I replaced the PCB in the end and all OK. I got a recon one from CET in Watford WD24 7XA - about £70 delivered - no works fine. I think they are the cheapest. The chap there said that almost half his business consisted of Suprima PCB's as the original installation was pretty sub standard in one way or another.

maunder_2

sorry should have said NOW works fine

saltgrass

go on ebay buy a reconditioned pcb 6 months guarantee ive fitted dozens no complaints

maunder_2

moneysavingplumber wrote: »

If it locks out in the morning it may be the spark electrode that gets damp overnight if it has a hairline crack in it, it will usually recover once it has some voltage put through it, hence it lighting on the second attempt, and sometimes the gas control valve sticks. If it is overheating then I would usually check the system and bypass first, and I would replace the overheat and boiler stat sensors before shelling out for a costly pcb.

Very useful comment. I had that same problem. Did not light after 4 lots of 3 attempts. So to test warmed electrode with a hair dryer and it worked. Might also be a useful thing to consider if one supects a sticky gas valve.

I mist say this boiuler has not been highly reliable - I put in a new PCB last year (recon £ 60 from some people in Watford) and thst has been fine, new ignition lead and now the electrode. The main problem is that all the replacments are trial and error.

ashie

saltgrass wrote: »

go on ebay buy a reconditioned pcb 6 months guarantee ive fitted dozens no complaints

Agreed. You can get 'em for £30 if you part-exchange your old one. Just search for Potterton Suprima PCB.

Try it. If it doesn't work, you're only £30 out of pocket and can look at more expensive option.

jan_111

Hi i had an engineer out who said its the cicuit board and would be £250. plus and £50 to fit. My neighbour who does everything by internet said he done his, I found new circuit boards with the upgraded parts attatched on e.bay for £25.00 you pay a £30. deposit and its returned to you when you send your broken board back to them.. Took 20 mins to change myself. So £320.00 BILL CUT TO JUST £25. GOOD OLD E.BAY:T

TimRS

I have a Surpima 30 that has started rattling when the HW is on but not when the CH is also on. The boiler rattles and rattling also comes from the hot water tank.
It locks out almost every time I go away but resets easily.
Although the water in the radiators soon gets piping hot, it takes hours for the HW to get really hot.
I'd actually forgotten how quickly water should heat up until I thought of using the tank's immersion heater last night.
Any thoughts gratefully received.

SY8

I have been in this property for 15 months and the fitted for just over 6 years Suprima 70 does the flashing red lockout thing. Removing the mains power to the boiler for a couple of minutes and then doing the reset works most of the time. I have also found that putting the motorised valve next to the hot water tank to water keeps the heating nice and toasty(!?) Spoke to Potterton today and they say that if the boiler is before 2003, the snag could be anything, not just the PCB. The boiler code indicates year of manufacture. In my case CHHS033**** where the 0 after the S indicates YOM 2000. Just my 10p worth. (or £200 if I replace the PCB:-)

moneysavingplumber

SY8 wrote: »

I have been in this property for 15 months and the fitted for just over 6 years Suprima 70 does the flashing red lockout thing. Removing the mains power to the boiler for a couple of minutes and then doing the reset works most of the time. I have also found that putting the motorised valve next to the hot water tank to water keeps the heating nice and toasty(!?) Spoke to Potterton today and they say that if the boiler is before 2003, the snag could be anything, not just the PCB. The boiler code indicates year of manufacture. In my case CHHS033**** where the 0 after the S indicates YOM 2000. Just my 10p worth. (or £200 if I replace the PCB:-)

SY8 there are a set of fault codes in the installation manual that will help determine whether you have a a lock-out or an overheat situation according to the sequence of the LEDs, Potterton should have pointed that out. If it locks-out early in the morning it could be a hairline crack in the spark electrode that gets damp overnight (as posted earlier in this thread). Suprima PCBs are extremely expensive if not correctly diagnosed and changing does not cure the fault as they are not returnable (recons are available cheaper as earlier stated). If it is nuisance overheat then more often than not changing the PCB cures it but there are still other factors to consider (faulty overheat sensors, system problems causing heat build-up, incorrect pipe sizing etc). If you have a Suprima 70 then the tails from the top of the boiler should have been upsized to 28mm for the primaries, more ofen than not this isn't done in practice.

SY8

MSP

Thanks for that reply.

Just to provide some further info, the heating works better in the evenings than during the day. I can put the heating on at, say, 1500 and it will last for less than 5 minutes. Constant resetting via the power switch.

Come the evening, and it works pretty much as advertised.