Advice on buying multi Fuel Stove

welda

nntw wrote: »

With regards to the steel/cast iron debate, cast iron is the better if you plan on using your stove a lot. It is harder wearing and does nt distort like steel can (hence why many steel stoves have cast iron doors).

Utter tosh, a well designed steel stove is just as good, if not better than a cast made stove. Reason for fire loading door and, ash pan door being made from cast is:- door is more ridgid, especially as there is less material to allow for glass to be fitted. Ash pan door at stove bottom:- easier to manufacture bottom vent facility and allow for air vent to move freely, especialy when very hot.

Most importantly, easier to cast these door contours than trying to manufacture using machines, which keeps cost down. Plus, I'd rather repair a steel stove than a fickle cast stove!

Regards,

crphillips

nntw wrote: »

With regards to the steel/cast iron debate, cast iron is the better if you plan on using your stove a lot. It is harder wearing and does nt distort like steel can (hence why many steel stoves have cast iron doors).

Yup....incorrect unfortunately........casting is only really used because it enables you to create definition and detail on parts you just couldn't achieve with 10mm steel plate...........it's also quicker and cheaper to build stoves from cast.....the company i'll be dealing with to manufacture my doors can make 900 doors a day!

The reason stoves have moved on and become so much better recently is because they're steel bodies which are fully welded so much more air tight......they're not relying on several panels with ceramic rope seals between them which compress and leak air over time. The best stoves on the market are steel.

A._Badger

welda wrote: »

Utter tosh, a well designed steel stove is just as good, if not better than a cast made stove. Reason for fire loading door and, ash pan door being made from cast is:- door is more ridgid, especially as there is less material to allow for glass to be fitted. Ash pan door at stove bottom:- easier to manufacture bottom vent facility and allow for air vent to move freely, especialy when very hot.

Most importantly, easier to cast these door contours than trying to manufacture using machines, which keeps cost down. Plus, I'd rather repair a steel stove than a fickle cast stove!

Regards,

And that's always assuming you can find anyone who knows <em> how </em> to repair cast iron these days. I tried a few years ago in South London and in the end just gave up.

simcla

A._Badger wrote: »

And that's always assuming you can find anyone who knows <em> how </em> to repair cast iron these days. I tried a few years ago in South London and in the end just gave up.

Don't think Welda is referring to repairing cast iron?!?!;)

A._Badger

simcla wrote: »

Don't think Welda is referring to repairing cast iron?!?!;)

That's what I understood him to say: "I'd rather repair a steel stove than a fickle cast stove!"

Either way, you can actually weld cast iron - but not many people know how these days, it seems.

welda

Not nailed cast for a long time, cast stoves will be the most common "grey cast iron" grade. Big problem with many repairs are the pre, and post heat treatment after welding. Boring subject, more info here if you want to read?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron

dollydolittle_2

Me again. Went and saw yet another stove showroom today.

This one seemed very professional and thorough. He showed me examples of orders and he is the first person to provide detailed drawings of what the fireplace will look like, the dimensions, and to say that he talks to the builder directly to make sure that everything is done exactly how it should be. He is personally coming to do the site visit and says it will take about an hour and a half to make sure we get all the details right.

However, he only stocks certain makes, all expensive... but while we were there I saw the new Town and Country Rosedale. I love the look of it (slightly curved glass, large window, minimal styling) but I've not come across anyone recommending Town and Country before. Are they worth the money?

Also, the nominal heat output (7.5 kw) is at the very top end of what we want. Anyone know if this stove would be efficient operating at below max capacity some of the time? Or should we look for a smaller one and rely on the ch to do more when it gets really cold.

crphillips

Town and country stoves are pretty good...there a breakaway company from Clearview so they're styling and design are pretty similar.

kiskat

Hi. Can anyone help? I'm looking at buying a multi-fuel stove and am deliberating on either Hunter Herald 6 or Herald 8 Slimline as have been told that they are one of the best value for money and build quality, but can't seem to find many reviews on either of them. If you have one or have experience of running one, can you tell me what you think. Have you had any problems; what to look out for? At present I have an open fire and burn just about anything on it as live in an area which is not under smoke control regulations in the peak district. My other worry is not being able to burn what wood my other half brings back with him as he is a joiner so utilises wood from window/door frames which he has taken out of peoples houses and cut up to save going in landfill sites! Anyone wish to comment on this aspect also before I pay out a substantial amount for a multi-fuel stove this close to Christmas!

w50nky

I had an open fire until this year and fitting my stove (not a Hunter) has made a world of difference. If you have not already looked, whatstove website if worth a look for opinions on stoves.
Try this link. http://www.whatstove.co.uk/reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c33_m9/

I think you may find that burning timber with paint/varnish etc is not recommended with stoves that have flexi liners fitted as it may increase corrosion. I am sure you will get more replies to advise on this.