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Bedroom Walls

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Comments

  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Where did you get your Lp from?, usually you can get 100,1200 from the DIY sheds, but if you go to a decorating centre, they normally stock all the grades.

    I think your very brave lol, putting up 1700 on your first attempt at lining, its very heavy, and requires a good bit of soaking before hanging.

    I always use the 1400, thats quite thick and heavy, but I am used to it, as a lot of my jobs are lining, I find the 1000 quite thin, the 1200, is okay for not too bad walls, but even with the 1400, I still do a fair bit of prep, as I hang it on at 75% of my jobs, I know what will show through the paper.

    Let us know how you get on, good luck.:D
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Meant to say also, if you have done a lot of filling on walls, I would suggest you dab some diluted PVA/unibond on the filled bits prior to hanging your LP.
    If you have good size lumps of filler, what sometimes happen is that the filler reacts to the paste, and the filler crumbles underneath the LP, it might happen straight away, or a couple day later, but you will see it thru the paper, so to avoid this, use some diluted PVA for quickness.
    if you have time to spare, or not doing the papering till the next day, you can paint the filler with some thinned down oilbase UC, this will do the same as the PVA, it will stop the filler from blowing/crumbling underneath the paper.:D
  • nickj_2
    nickj_2 Posts: 7,052 Forumite
    misgrace wrote: »
    The thing with painting walls a dark colour is that it will show up any imperfections more than a lighter colour, even if you use a mat finish.

    If you dont want to line, and want to go for red, do a base coat first in a magnolia first, after you have done your sanding etc first.
    This will show al the nicks, indents, cracks etc, plus the red will cover better of the mag, and wont need as many coats as you woud if you did the base coat white.

    once you have done this you can use a fine surface filler , i use toupret f.s.f , it's much easier to sand than other well known brands https://www.toupret.co.uk
  • Plasticman
    Plasticman Posts: 2,554 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    I've used lining paper a few times where the walls were a bit rough. I just wanted to paint on top (easy to change when the kids don't want bright pink any more!). My papering isn't good, but I found that if I painted the paper with with a base coat of paint designed to cover small cracks etc, then the finish was great and you coulnn't find the join in the paper - despite my dodgy papering!
  • lostsoul25
    lostsoul25 Posts: 229 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    not given it a go yet, but no doubt it will go terrible.

    got paper from b&Q. they had the 1000grade and then 1700.

    typically the height of my wall is much longer than my pasting table.

    how long should leave paste to soak onto the paper and will it be best to put some on the wall too
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Its better to give your walls a size, just knock up some of your paste, have it quite thin, and paste the whole room the night before.

    Measure your drops, say for example your drop is 92", you will get 4 drops from a roll, keep any left overs, as they will fit over the door, or somewhere.

    So cut your lengths, and put some on your table, they will hang over the table lol, to stop them rolling back, roll the ends the opposite way to how they are laying on the table, this will stop them rolling up.

    Liberally paste, (obviously have thicker than you used to size the walls), then fold over each end into the middle quite loose, dont fold it tight.

    In the meantime, whilst its soaking, I just get my brush, dip it in my bucket, and go down where the butts are going to joins, as the edges/seams of LP tend to dry quicker, so just as an extra precaution,put some paste down the wall where the seams will join, I know you have sized it the night before, pasted the paper, but in the warm weather the paste dries out quicker.

    Let your LP soak for approx 8-10 mins, till it feels supple, then hang, if you paste the second one just before you hang the first, the time you faff around cutting, moving steps etc, (as you havent done it before, you are slower), the second one should be nearly ready, and so on.

    I have a caulk blade to smooth LP down, but I daresay you will be using a brush, so start from the top, smooth to the left and right from the middle of the paper all the way down.

    Do your cutting top and bottom, then go over the paper again, smoothing all the way down, if your not sure if you have smoothed the bubbles out, then run your hand gently down the paper, if you feel a bubble, then work it out to the left and right.

    It might bubble up, but if you smooth with your hand, then it wont be cause you havent smoothed enough, it will be you have missed a bit of paste out on your paper.

    Good luck:D
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