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Guide price for moving a stud wall?

aliasojo
Posts: 23,053 Forumite


Considering getting a stud wall moved by approximately 10inches. Hardly worth it I know, but it will make a huge difference to what can be fitted into the room. (Room is tiny)
Typical wood stud/plasterboard contruction with door frame....roughly 7' across x 8' high.
OH is working away next week and I'm seriously thinking of whacking down old wall and getting new one put up before he comes back
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If I don't do it myself, can anyone give me a rough idea of what a joiner would charge to move the wall and fit a new door?
Ta peeps.
Typical wood stud/plasterboard contruction with door frame....roughly 7' across x 8' high.
OH is working away next week and I'm seriously thinking of whacking down old wall and getting new one put up before he comes back

If I don't do it myself, can anyone give me a rough idea of what a joiner would charge to move the wall and fit a new door?
Ta peeps.
Herman - MP for all!

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Comments
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Hi,
This is a relatively easy diy job as long as no pipes or wires are running through the petition, also make sure it is not supporting the ceiling above before demolishing it!
You should be able to re use the door and frame and most of the timber, you will however need 4 new sheets of plasterboard and these will require skimming.
I have checked my favorite DIY website for you and found instructions for building a stud petition and for skimming a wall, can't find anything about fitting door frames or doors on the site though!
stud petition
skimming
My friend brother in law is a joiner and he once charged £600 for building a similar sized stud wall, at least robin hood wore a mask!
I'd expect to pay around £200 as it is less than a days work for one person!0 -
Days work for a chippie but most will quote day and half or two days just incase something goes wrong. They may also need other trades...
Chippie £200/day
Sparky disconnect / reconnect sockets £100/half day
Plasterer £10-15/m2
Parts £500 -
Thanks guys.
Those prices are a bit steep. I thought you were going to tell me around a hundred quid! :rotfl: I'm well out of touch.
I can do it myself, I've done it before elsewhere...I just don't know if I have time though which is why I thought about getting someone to do it for me.
The wall has a triple light switch, a socket and a shower on it but I've put in new sockets myself in the past so it shouldn't be a problem to move them I would think. Not done anything with a shower before but how hard can it be???
I'll definately be doing it myself at those kinda prices, just maybe not next week when I'd hoped to do it.
Thanks for advice.Herman - MP for all!0 -
if your moving the stud wall you will need to provide additional floor joists below to support it (often either 1 or 2 extra to what you already have depending on the span and the size of the joists)- this should be notified to the building control department at your LA
Also if the studwall has a shower attached you must be working in a bathroom or and ensuite
either way this is notifiable to the building control department at your LA unless you use a self certifying electrician on one of the approved schemes.0 -
I need to clarify this....I need to notify building control because I want to move an internal wall a few inches back a bit?
That's the first I've heard of this.
I was under the impression only substantial differences to room layouts and moving/blocking doorways were of concern?Herman - MP for all!0 -
You only need to notify building control if its a load bearing wall. non load bearing walls will not need any additional support under it.
No problem moving the socket yourself unless it in a kitchen/bathroom in which case you will need to use a self certifying electrician or notify building control.0 -
Thanks for clarifying robv. The sockets/switches are on the hall side of the wall, just the shower on the other side.
Having had a first nose around now, I've found that....
The wall runs this way
The floor joists underneath run this way
The joists in the loft above the wall run this way
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Wall sits on a joist and the next one is too far to move the wall back to. Don't want to get into the faffing about with reinforcing joists etc, I thought it would be a simpler job than it's looking like right now. I was going to frame out first before removing existing frame but didn't think BC would need involved.
I think I might just leave alone and put up with it. I can move the doorway over a bit and that would help free up a little space along the wall. I'd like to get my hands on the bloke that designed this house. :wall: :whistle:
Thanks for help.Herman - MP for all!0 -
robv wrote:You only need to notify building control if its a load bearing wall. non load bearing walls will not need any additional support under it.
but thats not accurate.
if you make a structural alteration then a building regs application is need
Strictly speaking the moving of a stud wall needs an application as you need to provide structural supports in the floor to support the stud wall as i mentioned previously.(maybe doubles- sometimes trebles).
Ask a structural engineer or building control or one of the trade bodies if you dont want to take my word for it.
as you show that the floor joists and stud wall are running parallel to each othe you definately need to give extra support to the stud wall
the only possible get out would be if the existing floor joists were way oversized in the first place0 -
At the risk of appearing like a numpty for asking......are the rules and regs the same across the country? Just wondered if there was any difference in Scotland as opposed to England.
Also can anyone tell me what's actually involved in reinforcing a joist? I think I've given up on the idea but I'd like to know just what needs doing before I finally do.Herman - MP for all!0
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