Modern cistern that leak from the screws

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I would get a plumber in if were you.

catkins

Is the person doing the work a proper plumber? This type of fixing is used all over the world and if connected together properly hardly ever fails. The secret is you need to know what you ae doing. Here is a rough idea of what should be on bolt and in order. Bolt head, large metal washer, rubber cone with narrow part at bottom or flat rubber washer in place of this. Pass this through base of cistern. Place large metal washer onto bolt now sticking out od bottom of cistern then screw on nut. Tighten nut to make a firm fixing, squashing the washer but not too tight that it destroys the washer. Repeat for other hole. Place donut over bottom of siphon sticking out of cistern and place whole thing onto pan. Use another large rubber washer then a large metal washer on the thread now sticking through the pan then fit nut (it usually is a wing nut) tighten both sides evenly while gently pushing down on cistern. Hand tight shoould be enough if all has been done correctly in previous stages. Good Luck.

Canucklehead

Good morning: More advice, with pictures, here . A 'proper' plumber can be found here .... unfortunately anyone can call his/herself a plumber as plumbing is not a regulated profession.

HTH

Canucklehead

Inactive

catkins wrote: »

Is the person doing the work a proper plumber? This type of fixing is used all over the world and if connected together properly hardly ever fails. The secret is you need to know what you ae doing..

My thoughts entirely, any plumber that is a proper plumber should be able to fix a loo, without it leaking, very basic stuff.;)

altocumulus

I have a cold water tank feeding into the central heating boiler. The valve into the tank is dripping, despite the ball being in a position which should totally close the valve.

I have dismantled all three-times, with no difference. I have checked and there is nothing in the nozzle to prevent the valve closing (as I once discovered with the main water tank; -that was a sliver of wood!)

The plastic valve itself has a removable black bung where one end is flat and the other shaped where it pushes against the water inlet. Can this bung be reversed or does it need to be a new one?

thanks in antic ...

moneysavingplumber

You might want to start a new thread for this mate as it's off topic entirely and a very old thread!

You shouldn't have a plastic ball valve in your heating header tank, go to your local plumbers merchants and ask for a Part 2 ball valve and float. Make sure the system is cold when you fit it and bail out the tank so it's less than half full (as long as it adequately covers the outlet to the cold feed) then fit and set the new valve to that point. If in doubt, call in a qualified person.

27col

I have fitted several close coupled suites, both for myself and for other people. If I have to do the type that has the holes and bolts through the bottom( ridiculous idea), then I have found that it is a good idea to check the water tightness of these bolts and the main flush outlet pipe, before fitting the cistern to the pan. You do not need to put much water in the cistern, just enough to cover the bottom. If you do this then the only possible source of a leak is the fitting of the doughnut washer.
I agree that the outlet pipe does seem to be on the short side. If it was just that bit longer then most of the leaks would not occur. Another point that occurs to me is that, when you are fitting the cistern to the wall, you need to be very careful that it is not putting any pressure on the outlet connection. If necessary, pack the cistern out from the wall slightly.
catkins has put the method of fixing very succinctly. Any body who call himself a plumber should have no trouble installing this type of sanitary ware. Indeed, any competent DIYer should be able to do it. You just need an awareness of what each component is doing. I suspect that many people do not.

loulou41

Well, I am still having problem with the leak. I have homecare 400 and their plumber has not been able to fix the problem despite replacing all the contents inside, removing and replacing the cistern twice and sealing the back with sealant and yet it still leaks. It is a mystery, hubby wants to have it removed completely and replaced by another, not sure whether this will solve the problem. I have called the professionals and nobody can help, any more suggestions anybody!!

loulou41

I agree that the outlet pipe does seem to be on the short side. If it was just that bit longer then most of the leaks would not occur.

27col, I think that's the problem with the leak, is there anything I can do to make it longer or buy a replacement with a longer outlet pipe? Is this possible? I am going to call the plumber again for a second opinion, surely they should be able to do something about it. Thanks

moneysavingplumber

I have fitted several Sandringhams and don't recall ever having a problem, but it's two years since I've fitted one at least.

A decent plumber will have this sorted in no time, the washer set for the bolts maybe fitted in the wrong sequence, but that's easy to check by removing the cistern from the pan and filling it with water to see where the leak is from. It's important that when tightening the wing nuts when coupling that the bolts inside the cistern are held and do not move.

http://www.homesupply.co.uk/pdfs/ASclosecoupled.pdf

Check the instructions above, like I said I was fittng these European types of WC since the mid-nineties and only had problems on the first couple that I did, but not since.