garden / playarea

wallacebob

Hi, I work in play.
Minimum depth of bark/woodchip/sand should be 100mm or 4 ins if you prefer! BUT this should be topped up and raked level regularly according to use. Public play areas usually have 300mm depth to cope with wear.
The height of the play item platform will determine area you need - rule of thumb is for up to 1.5 metres high have 1.5 metres all around the item as minimum. This so your child's head won't hit the timber edge if you have one.
Grass in good condition is fine for low fall height of less than 1 metre, but only if not worn or stone exposed. Gets muddy when wet if high use.
The best way is to come up the way not dig down. If you dig a pit you must install drainage or it may be wet and muddy very quickly. If you build a "box" around the area and have edges made from 150mm 1/2 logs it looks good, and will keep material in and clean.
Play sand is expensive as it's washed and graded for play use, but bark or woodchip from hardwood is very good. Try a local saw mill, and remove the bigger bits - say over 25mm. Don't use chippings from firs as they have high resin content. Don't use recycled pallets as they have metal and chemical traces.
Gravel is very good, and cheap. Round Pea gravel about 5 to 10mm is available from most builders merchants by the bag. Not good for lawn mowers tho'!
Have a look here for lots of info - http://www.melcourt.co.uk/melframe.html?http%3A//www.melcourt.co.uk/play/pg17.htm

emweaver

Thanks we have the playbark just got to lay it, onyl problem with putting it ontop of the grass is the gate doesnt open, will have to find a way round this

emweaver

wallacebob wrote: »

Hi, I work in play.
Minimum depth of bark/woodchip/sand should be 100mm or 4 ins if you prefer! BUT this should be topped up and raked level regularly according to use. Public play areas usually have 300mm depth to cope with wear.
The height of the play item platform will determine area you need - rule of thumb is for up to 1.5 metres high have 1.5 metres all around the item as minimum. This so your child's head won't hit the timber edge if you have one.
Grass in good condition is fine for low fall height of less than 1 metre, but only if not worn or stone exposed. Gets muddy when wet if high use.
The best way is to come up the way not dig down. If you dig a pit you must install drainage or it may be wet and muddy very quickly. If you build a "box" around the area and have edges made from 150mm 1/2 logs it looks good, and will keep material in and clean.
Play sand is expensive as it's washed and graded for play use, but bark or woodchip from hardwood is very good. Try a local saw mill, and remove the bigger bits - say over 25mm. Don't use chippings from firs as they have high resin content. Don't use recycled pallets as they have metal and chemical traces.
Gravel is very good, and cheap. Round Pea gravel about 5 to 10mm is available from most builders merchants by the bag. Not good for lawn mowers tho'!
Have a look here for lots of info - http://www.melcourt.co.uk/melframe.html?http%3A//www.melcourt.co.uk/play/pg17.htm

Thanks for that. you mean log roll, by 1/2 logs? the only log roll ive seen is 6" high which would be a big step up for my lo as shes v short

rdpro

generally, you can even out lumpy lawns by using sand to fill the depressions. The grass grows through (assuming the dips aren't pond depth!) It also means better drainage in wet weather.

emweaver

i dont want the grass to grow through the bark though so ive bought weed block

rdpro

the point I was trying to make was that your original problem was an uneven lawn - easily remedied by a bag or 3 of sand rather than very expensive alternatives

For the level, now you've got the chippings - remove the turf (sharp spade, cut down 2 inches and then horizontal), lay down cut-open bin liners to prevent plant growth, then fill in with chippings. Probably a good idea to board the edges with treated edging planks to prevent ingress of grass or loss of bark over the remaining lawn.

emweaver

Now im confused as to which i do throw the bark on top or dig down. Ive had 2 diff responses lol and im a beginner so am just as confused as I was before i asked the question lol

rdpro

taking off the top 2in and laying bin liners will stop 90% of weeds growing through. Chucking the bark onto an existing lawn is just asking for hard work in the future imho.

bookduck

emweaver wrote: »

whats nugget lumps?

I thought these were little messages that cats left behind, and are bark coloured?

emweaver

rdpro wrote: »

taking off the top 2in and laying bin liners will stop 90% of weeds growing through. Chucking the bark onto an existing lawn is just asking for hard work in the future imho.

how is it asking for hard work?