how to tell if quality plastering job?

misgrace

Your welcome,but if your worried about the crack, then that is easily sorted.

Just open the crack with a bit wider than it is now, lightly sand down, knock up some powder filler and spread over the crack, let is dry, gently sand down, and run your hand over hand over it, if it still feels slightly indented, then fill again.

Before you actually come to roll your walls, just dab some diluted emulsion on the filled areas with a brush a couple times, when dry, roll as normal.


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aliasojo

I was surprised to see the metal external corner bead still on show tbh. I would have expected that to be covered. Is that usual?

Errata

How do you decide if a tradesman has done a good job or not? Just ask yourself if you'd be pleased with the finished job if the work had been done in your 85 year old grannie's house.

misgrace

aliasojo wrote: »

I was surprised to see the metal external corner bead still on show tbh. I would have expected that to be covered. Is that usual?

I'm afraid that does happen quite a lot too, specially with the plasterers I have gone after.
You mentioning the corner bead reminded me to also tell ezman (but I forgot):rolleyes: how to cover it.

Sometimes when the bead is showing like that, it can take a few extra coats to cover compared to the rest of the walls, so the trick is, before you start your actual emulsioning, is to brush some oilbase undercoat along the corner/bead, dosnt matter if some gets on the actual wall, when dry, emulsion your walls as normal, this will seal your beads, and wont show thru when you start the emulsioning.:D

George_Bray

ezman wrote: »

How do i tell if a plastering job has been done in a quality manner?

I try and do my own plastering. I could never get a smooth surface in one hit, like I hope they have. But I would definately aim to plaster over the metal corners, fill all the gaps between adjacent walls/panels and use a brush, a trowel or something to apply plaster to the side of the radiator. I've never had cracks like yours appear. Perhaps the underlying surface isn't secure.

I'd have expected them to do all the above, and for a lot less than £630. The cost per man-day (equivalent) suggests you were robbed, I fear.

jason_s_2

Right here we go.

On your the pic, its not down to the plasterer to tack your wires,if anything they should of been either removed (if poss) or tacked before the job was started.
On the second and third pics, yes the angles are crap they should be nice a clean ( i'll come to that in a minute).
Third pic, the crack could be caused be movement or drying out to quick,but do as gracy says and it will be fine.
Forth pic, although there is a trowel small enough (pipe trowel or midget) it is impossible to get a top finish if the rad is still there. The rad needs to be removed.
Now as for the beading showing, this is how all my work is finished, i wipe down all the corners and metal beading to leave a nice clean crisp edge, this is how i was taught and if i didnt do that i got a clip round the ear.

Jase

George_Bray

misgrace wrote: »

the trick is, before you start your actual emulsioning, is to brush some oilbase undercoat along the corner/bead, dosnt matter if some gets on the actual wall, when dry, emulsion your walls as normal, this will seal your beads, and wont show thru when you start the emulsioning.:D

Thank you for your tip of using oil-based undercoat for certain purposes. I will certainly try it. For metal, or some other surfaces, would a first coat of primer make for an even better result?

e.g.
1st coat - oil based metal primer
2nd coat - oil based undercoat (rubbed down a bit to 'key')
3rd coat - emulsion

madeane

My husband is a plasterer. and we recommend the following:

Choose plasterers who offer you a proper contract, terms and conditions and guarantee, this assures that you can ask them to put right the things that you are not happy with. If they are reputable they will take a pride in leaving a customer happy with the work that they do, too few people expect this from tradesmen and consequently some get away with poor workmanship.

A few other points, it is normal for the corner beads to be visible as this gives a crips edge, cracking as has been said looks like it could be movement. It is usually made clear in the quotation who is responsible for the moving of the radiator, many plasterers will not do this unless they are competent at minor plumbing jobs and are in fear of litigation if they mess up, however, it looks a mess if they are left on and plastered around it should have been removed. The cable possibly could need re-siting or channeling in, again this should have been organised either before the plasterer arrives or by the plaster before he skims, it may be, in the former case, that an electrician is needed to do this. The mess is not acceptable they should clean up after themselves the fact that a lot of plasterers leave mess around is not an excuse. I think there is an art to managing your development project, even if you are buying in tradesment, as you are relying on them to tell you all of this and some just lack the broad knowledge and experience to inform you, and some just want a quick buck.
Complain and get them back to sort it out if you are still not happy!!:j

misgrace

George_Bray wrote: »

Thank you for your tip of using oil-based undercoat for certain purposes. I will certainly try it. For metal, or some other surfaces, would a first coat of primer make for an even better result?

e.g.
1st coat - oil based metal primer
2nd coat - oil based undercoat (rubbed down a bit to 'key')
3rd coat - emulsion

Hi george, you dont need metal primer in this case, just your ordinary cheapo oilbased UC, it normally says on the tin, 'for wood and metal'
Just brush this on the corner beads, much like you would use emulsion, dont have it too thinned out, but not so thick that it looks clumpy, if you want, you can do two fairly thinnish coats.
This will seal the metal, and not flake off, then you can apply your coats of emulsion on top, when the UC is dry of course.:D

misgrace

George_Bray wrote: »

e.g.
1st coat - oil based metal primer
2nd coat - oil based undercoat (rubbed down a bit to 'key')
3rd coat - emulsion

Forgot to mention, you dont really need to rub the UC down to give it a key, as the UC is flat, no shine to it, thats why its great for covering stained nicotene ceilings prior to emulsioning:D