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How do I remove stains from black polished porcelain floor tiles? (merged threads)
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Theres one other reason for these sort of stains which is very rare but does happen And thats YOU MUST ALWAYS HAVE 100% COVERAGE WITH THE ADHESIVE because if you dont then you could end up with DARK patches bleeding up through the tiles where the adhesive is in contact with the tile , the voids creating no change in colour what so ever hence 100% coverage = even colour finish.0
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You can also easily tell the difference between cheap porcelain and the real thing simply by looking at the back of the tile ......whats on the front should be on the back (the colour goes all the way through)!!!!!!!!! Most of the cheap stuff has a biscuiet back ie very absorbent a simple test is to lick the back of the tile with your tounge or spit on it the rest is a no brainer.
And always check the adhesives NEVER LAY FLOOR TILES WITH TUB STUFF DO YOUR HOME WORK ignorence is no excuse where losing money is concerned.
DIY stores are just what they say they are D I Y Dont Indulge Yourself0 -
well said kev porcelain should always be a proper cementous based adhesive never premixed, cheap is not money saving its money wasting0
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I second the sealing them advice - but the B&Q ones do actually state it on the box - I have bought the black ones but haven't laid them yet - am reading all the different forums for advice first!
Must say there are many differing views though - it's about 50/50 on the 'they are cr4p', and 'no they aren't' opinions so make your own mind up!0 -
Hey Everyone, I Own a Tile Shop, This Product from B&Q does need sealing, The people that are saying it is crap, need to get the facts right. There is two Polished Porcelains on the market, One is a normal one and one is called Soluble Salt. The one from B&Q is the latter. Therefore it needs to be sealed. The product itself is a bargain for what it is.This product in a normal retailer will be in the excess of approx £29.99 a mtre Sq. Therefore after purchasing the sealer its still a bargain. The product is from china which is treue, however 80% of the polished porcelain products are from there. if it is not then it will retail in the region of 49.99. If anyone has any questions plese feel free to ask as i will try my hardest to reply
Thank U0 -
You can also easily tell the difference between cheap porcelain and the real thing simply by looking at the back of the tile ......whats on the front should be on the back (the colour goes all the way through)!!!!!!!!! Most of the cheap stuff has a biscuiet back ie very absorbent a simple test is to lick the back of the tile with your tounge or spit on it the rest is a no brainer.
And always check the adhesives NEVER LAY FLOOR TILES WITH TUB STUFF DO YOUR HOME WORK ignorence is no excuse where losing money is concerned.
DIY stores are just what they say they are D I Y Dont Indulge Yourself
In reference to ur comment Kevrob a tile with a Biscuit back is actually not porcelain, this is called a white body ceramic, the quality of a tile is superior to a normal ceramic however is actually not a procelain tile. u can purchace a full body porcelain which is same all the way through or u can purchase a glazed porcelain which actualy is a porcelain tile, however has a glazed finish. As a adhesive it is always better to use a powder adhesive and it needs to be 1 part flexible.0 -
Hi all,
I am about to lay the B&Q 60cm black porcelain tiles in my kitchen, glad I found out about sealing them before I put them down. Spent a good couple of hours today sealing all tiles with HG Impregnator Sealer. You need to put on a really thin coat, then wipe / buff of access after about 3 minutes, don't leave it any longer otherwise your into some serious elbow greasing getting the stuff off! :eek: .
Will give them another coat once there layed.
I have got a couple questions, I have put self levelling compound down, does this need priming before tiling?, if so what with, PVA? & I have also bought Unibond flexiable adhesive/grout but have since read this is not the best stuff to be using, is it really that bad?
Thanks0 -
....I have got a couple questions, I have put self levelling compound down, does this need priming before tiling?, if so what with, PVA? & I have also bought Unibond flexiable adhesive/grout but have since read this is not the best stuff to be using, is it really that bad?
Thanks
What is the self-levelling over?A house isn't a home without a cat.
Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.
I have writer's block - I can't begin to tell you about it.
You told me again you preferred handsome men but for me you would make an exception.
It's a recession when your neighbour loses his job; it's a depression when you lose yours.0 -
The self-leveling compound went over the concrete floor to secure/protect the underfloor heating before I put the tiles down. I was assuming that one of the reasons for putting a primer down (apart from ensuring a good bond to the tile adhesive) was to prevent the self levelling compound sucking all the moisture out of the tile adhesive making it difficult to work with?0
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The self-leveling compound went over the concrete floor to secure/protect the underfloor heating before I put the tiles down....A house isn't a home without a cat.
Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.
I have writer's block - I can't begin to tell you about it.
You told me again you preferred handsome men but for me you would make an exception.
It's a recession when your neighbour loses his job; it's a depression when you lose yours.0
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