Rabbit questions

BridgetJones_2

feelinggood wrote: »

She was neutered when the RSPCA got her. She was with them for 6 months I think, and they tried bonding her with a few other rabbits. She is fine with people, just not other fluffy things! She gets very annoyed when the cat comes in the house.

Ahh well I wouldn't worry about her too much. As she's an indoor bun I'm sure she gets loads of attention from you anyway.

wickatre65

feelinggood wrote: »

Wick - The RSPCA told me that my Bunny wouldn't be able to be bonded with other rabbits. Do you think thats true? Is she missing out being a solo bun? She gets plenty of attention (I'm home all day).

Some bunnies don't like being with other buns, if she gets loads of attention and seems content then leave her be. You could end up gettting another rabbit and they dont bond then you have two rabbits to entertain seperately. A point to note neutered females are more laid back and live longer apparently (prone to womb problems) certainly they tend to be a bit less grumpy with other female company.

wickatre65

BridgetJones wrote: »

I've had many heated debates with owners of pet shops! And now I just vote with my feet. I don't think any animals should be sold in shops, it's completely barmy. I went to a garden centre yesterday and they had blooming puppies for sale!! I left straight away and reported them to the RSPCA because they had no water. Looked like a nice place from the outside...you never can tell I guess!

Regarding your previous post, my rabbits got on brilliantly immediately. The chap at the rescue centre said it's one of the easiest pairings he's had. I do think it's quite nice to get to know one then introduce another but it's more convenient to get an already bonded pair if they're available.

feelinggood - Is she neutered or was she from the RSPCA originally? There was one rabbits at the centre I went to that hated other rabbits, they tried bonding her with 8 others (at different times) and it just stressed her out. I ended up talking my best friend into homing her and she's very happy being an indoor very fussed upon solo rabbit.

Totally agree with you about pet shops the latest stomp by me was due to a sign on rabbits cage in pets shop "Male rabbits should be kept alone as they can injure other animal (Guniea Pigs and other rabbits for example) what a load of tosh!

bexbex

wickatre65 wrote: »

Totally agree with you about pet shops the latest stomp by me was due to a sign on rabbits cage in pets shop "Male rabbits should be kept alone as they can injure other animal (Guniea Pigs and other rabbits for example) what a load of tosh!

That's scary!

I've just bonded my male neutered rabbit, Biscuit, with an older not yet neutered (but soon to be) doe I've called Betty.

After a week of "dates" they're best friends and spend all day grooming and loving each other.

How sad it would be for all the male rabbits who will end up on their own!

wickatre65

I agree Bex. I have two neutered males living with a female .Trevor is our old male dwarf lop 9 years old - lost his missus last year (been together since he was six months) we had to introduce him to a new lady ( he looked so sad - I know you shouldnt give human emotion to animals but.. - no probs he is very laid back but suprized us all by adopting a 6 month old neutered boy who came to stay when his brother decided he didnt like him much. the three of them get on very well. We also have a two year old male whos mum was given to us a few days before christmas - heavily pregnant he had to spend a few months on his own until he was done, bless him he was a psycho during that time. i just cant understand how pet shops can get away with giving bad advice, mind you so do the RSPCA sometimes. (Lovely well informed lady looks after buns at our local centre though)

viktory

wickatre65 wrote: »

Totally agree with you about pet shops the latest stomp by me was due to a sign on rabbits cage in pets shop "Male rabbits should be kept alone as they can injure other animal (Guniea Pigs and other rabbits for example) what a load of tosh!

It's not tosh. I would never put any rabbit with a pig for playtime or to live with. Rabbits have a habit of thumping with their hind legs when they are frightened, this is part of their natural behaviour. Rabbits will do this whenever they are frightened without checking first to see where a pig is, I have seen too many rabbits who have injured pigs including a total of 5 which required hind leg amputations, one which had internal injuries and required a laparotomy and have heard of many others who have died.

Guinea pigs and rabbits can also pass disease onto each other. In the case of rabbits, a very common bacteria found in their respiratory tract is Pasteurella. While antibiotic treatments can control this disease, it often lingers on in a carrier state and requires occasional treatment. Rabbits can live a long life as carriers of Pasteurella and not even show any symptoms. However, guinea pigs are highly susceptible to respiratory infections, and their fragile immune system is not equipped to battle this pathogen. If exposed to Pasteurella, a guinea pig is many times more likely than a rabbit to succumb to the organism and die.

Finally, although guinea pigs and rabbits are both herbivores who eat primarily hay, they require different nutrients and consume different quantities. For instance, guinea pigs need a regular supply of Vitamin C, which they get both from their daily vegetable intake and specially-formulated pellets. Guinea pigs should NOT eat rabbit pellets, as these are formulated to meet the rabbit’s digestive needs only and do not contain extra Vitamin C. In addition, some rabbit pellets, designed for use by breeders and labs, contain antibiotics that are potentially harmful to guinea pigs. To complicate matters even further, while the House Rabbit Society recommends limiting a bun’s pellet diet, guinea pigs can have unlimited access to their own pellets. And when it comes to vegetables, it can become very difficult to make sure that each animal is provided with the correct roughage for their nutritional needs

Three very good reasons not to bond rabbits and guinea pigs.

Loopy_Girl

viktory wrote: »

It's not tosh. I would never put any rabbit with a pig for playtime or to live with. Rabbits have a habit of thumping with their hind legs when they are frightened, this is part of their natural behaviour. Rabbits will do this whenever they are frightened without checking first to see where a pig is, I have seen too many rabbits who have injured pigs including a total of 5 which required hind leg amputations, one which had internal injuries and required a laparotomy and have heard of many others who have died.

Guinea pigs and rabbits can also pass disease onto each other. In the case of rabbits, a very common bacteria found in their respiratory tract is Pasteurella. While antibiotic treatments can control this disease, it often lingers on in a carrier state and requires occasional treatment. Rabbits can live a long life as carriers of Pasteurella and not even show any symptoms. However, guinea pigs are highly susceptible to respiratory infections, and their fragile immune system is not equipped to battle this pathogen. If exposed to Pasteurella, a guinea pig is many times more likely than a rabbit to succumb to the organism and die.

Finally, although guinea pigs and rabbits are both herbivores who eat primarily hay, they require different nutrients and consume different quantities. For instance, guinea pigs need a regular supply of Vitamin C, which they get both from their daily vegetable intake and specially-formulated pellets. Guinea pigs should NOT eat rabbit pellets, as these are formulated to meet the rabbit’s digestive needs only and do not contain extra Vitamin C. In addition, some rabbit pellets, designed for use by breeders and labs, contain antibiotics that are potentially harmful to guinea pigs. To complicate matters even further, while the House Rabbit Society recommends limiting a bun’s pellet diet, guinea pigs can have unlimited access to their own pellets. And when it comes to vegetables, it can become very difficult to make sure that each animal is provided with the correct roughage for their nutritional needs

Three very good reasons not to bond rabbits and guinea pigs.

I absolutely agree with you. I think the poster would put this should check to see if the RSPCA think it's tosh to put buns and pigs together.

wickatre65

Loopy_Girl wrote: »

I absolutely agree with you. I think the poster would put this should check to see if the RSPCA think it's tosh to put buns and pigs together.

As I have just put , sorry I didnt put my response more clearly I do not agree with Guinea pigs and rabbits being together and do not mention it at all in my post I only discuss Rabbits. I have no experience of mixing rabbits and guineas - it would seem crazy to be honest. My only mention of Guineas is from the qute off the poster at the pet store and we were discussing bonding rabbits.

BreakinEven

Hi,

I've got a 7mth female lionhead and have a few questions.

1) She's getting neutered :shhh: on Friday as she is a moody and territorial little madam. I feel really mean putting such a little rabbit through such a big operation, yes i'm a fussy mummy, but seeing as I have a deep rabbit teeth shaped cut on either side of my finger :mad: for daring to go too near 'her' chair (she sits under it for hours at a time and woe betide anyone who disturbs her) I have made the decision.

What can I do when i collect her to make her more comfortable? I think I'll be keeping her inside and sleeping on the sofa to keep an eye on her

2) She has a nice big 2 tier hutch in the shed, but the ONLY place she will toilet is in her bed, whenever you clean her out it is sodden. Obviously coming into colder weather she has nowhere dry and warm to sleep. In the house she uses a litter tray without fail (but only when it is in a box so nobody can see her). I've brought an identical tray for her hutch. Will she use it? Not a chance. I've tried saving poohs from cleaning her out and putting them in the litter tray to encourage her but no improvement.

Anyother ideas to encourage not messing the bed area?

3) Just general rabbit quirks. Are all rabbits greedy? She is a eating machine. She gets the reccommended amount of excel dwarf & baby pellets plus a bit of fresh stuff and will still steal any food within reach, any non-food items which she can get her mouth around go down the hatch as well! I can only assume she has a cast iron stomach :eek:

She refuses to acknowledge my fiance exists, won't accept any food of treats from him, let him touch her etc . Which means he think she hates him.

Also, doesn't seem to grasp that she isn't human. As soon as you leave the room she is in 'my' chair watching the telly.

Doesn't realise that her ears only fold back and not forwards, if she's sqeezed from under something she can not back in without getting her ears stuck.

I could go on....Is it just mine?

ClareEmily

The VERY BEST advice I have found with regards to everything to do with bunnies is from the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund
http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/index.php?section=leaflets.html

You can download free leaflets about everything from bonding, feeding, illness's etc etc.

They are a charity and do fantastic work, I have also just become a member.
So have now got access to rabbit savvy vets in my area.

There is so much wrong advice out there, and long gone are the days where bunny is stuck in a cage at the bottom of the garden.

We have a house bunny called Biscuit who has her own room.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=158966&l=f99a4&id=716085393

I have a group on facebook called "Rabbit / Bunny Care" which you are more then welcome to have a look at.

Some more useful sites are below:

http://www.willowwarren.co.uk/ - for very good quality hay and willow toys
http://www.doedropinn.co.uk/ - bunny boarding
https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk - for toys
http://www.scratchandnewtonshop.co.uk/range.php?range_id=21 - for icepods, bottle snugs and hutch huggers
http://www.petstuffgalore.co.uk - for vet beds
http://www.bobtailsrescue.org.uk/ - for rescue bunnies

With regards to litter training, we found it very easy and use a cat litter tray, newspaper in the bottom and loads of hay on top, we change it twice a day.

Hope this is of some help.

Clare

P.S lastly before you get a bunny (especially if you are buying for your children) read this from Bobtails rescue, makes you think:

Over 33,000 rabbits every year are abandoned or sent to rescue centres in the UK.
We are a small rescue centre, but we re-homed over 1000 animals last year alone.

We have compiled a list of the most often used reasons and we urge you, if you think you could fall into one of these categories now or in the future,
PLEASE, DO NOT GET A RABBIT IN THE FIRST PLACE.

Most often reasons given are,

1) Bought for the children, and they are no longer interested.

The novelty of a new pet usually wears off in 8 weeks, and very young children should not be expected to take total responsibility for the well being of the animal. If you, as the parent are not prepared to accept the responsibility of caring for the rabbit for maybe 8-10 years.
See solution (A).

2) Someone in the family is allergic to it.

Before you buy the pet, the whole family should either visit a friend who has a rabbit or guinea pig, or a rescue centre and get covered in fur! See if they sneeze or wheeze. If they do,
See solution (A).

3) I have just had a baby and haven’t the time to look after the rabbit.

Yes you do. If you organise properly. You don’t get rid of one member of the family just because another one comes along. What happens to number 1 child if number 2 comes along? Do you re-home it? Alternatively,
See solution (A)

4) I now work full time and haven’t the time to look after it.

Again, yes you do, just prioritise. If you really care for the animal you will find time. Alternatively,
See solution (A)

5) We are moving and can’t take it with us.

Are you sure you can’t or just don’t want to? But we do appreciate this can sometimes be a problem.

6) Family break up, couples splitting up.

Sadly, this is happening more and more.

7) Emigrating.

Okay, we cannot argue with that one. But please don’t buy an animal if you are even considering emigrating in the not too distant future.
See solution (A)

8) The children cannot handle it.

Rabbits are not ideal pets for children, they generally do not like being held and can give a child a nasty scratch when trying to get away. Not the rabbits or child’s fault, just a rabbit being a rabbit.

9) My rabbit is aggressive.

Ask for advice. Spaying or neutering often helps, but there are other ways to sort out your pet’s problem and avoid them being rehomed. If you really want to keep them, it’s worth a try.

10) The children have outgrown it, we didn’t know it would live that long!

This is the worst one. How can you outgrow a pet if you ever loved it in the first place? But at least they are honest.

Solutions.

A) Buy a cuddly toy rabbit.

If the kids outgrow it, are no longer interested or they become allergic, you can sling it in the bin!!!

But…if it is too late and one of the above already applies to you, please, please do not neglect your pet. They are totally reliant on you for their well being, please do ask for help.
Do not even think about letting it go free in the woods, “it’s a rabbit, it will be okay” is not the answer. It is cruel. Letting your rabbit loose in the woods does not make it free, it makes it fox food.
If it is absolutely necessary for you to re-home your pet, we will do all we can to help you. But at certain times of the year we do have to operate a waiting list as our space is limited.

Most of all, do your research before you even think of buying or acquiring any living creature, make sure your children understand what a commitment it is and the expected lifespan of it. If your child is around 8-12 years old, in a few years time it will be having more homework, more friends and be wanting to go out more and even going away to college or university. The cute little bundle of fur that they badgered you for in the pet shop or garden centre and you bought on the spur of the moment because they “really wanted it and promised to look after it forever, honest!!” will be on the waiting list of a rescue centre.