We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.

This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.

📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!

Ceramic Tiles in Bathroom

13

Comments

  • handyman.
    handyman. Posts: 305 Forumite
    why put 3mm ply down on floorboards then? Its pointless.
    go on, adopt a greyhound
    http://www.dgrescue.org.uk/
  • its either, properly supported floorboards, or minimum 15mm ply. Thats it, you have just made up in your head that 3mm ply is better
    go on, adopt a greyhound
    http://www.dgrescue.org.uk/
  • Mmmmm, just to explain, I'm not talking to myself...........vista tiling has deleted all his posts from this thread
    go on, adopt a greyhound
    http://www.dgrescue.org.uk/
  • i do not understand why my posts has been deleted

    Any moderators know about this?

    Good morning: Posting links for personal gain...see forum rules at top of page.

    HTH

    Canucklehead
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • BobProperty
    BobProperty Posts: 3,245 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    handyman. wrote: »
    ....If so, if you go to page 15/16 you will see that the spec for t&g flooring is supporting joists at 300mm centers. I dont know any house made to this spec. And you need to screw every board into every joist.....
    Handy, I took my quote from a BAL .pdf too. I'll repeat it :
    Boards must be screwed or screw nailed to the supporting joists and noggins at maximum 300mm centres
    I wouldn't have to try too hard to get a barrister to interpret that as meaning the joists need to be no more than 300mm apart and there must be noggins every 300mm. Now, as a few of us keep saying, has anyone seen a floor to that standard?

    Vista - your pictures say "sufficiently rigid" and "firmly screwed down" without specific details. Leaves the adhesive supplier with an easy get out IMHO. What's on page 64, BTW, does that give more details?
    Edited to add, no it doesn't it repeats the previous phrases. I also note that the max bed thickness for that stuff is 3mm, another easy get out.
    The mods have probably fallen out with your name; there is a total opposition on this site to any sort of business linking which you might not get on other websites.
    A house isn't a home without a cat.
    Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.
    I have writer's block - I can't begin to tell you about it.
    You told me again you preferred handsome men but for me you would make an exception.
    It's a recession when your neighbour loses his job; it's a depression when you lose yours.
  • handyman.
    handyman. Posts: 305 Forumite
    vista,

    we are not saying that you cant tiles onto floorboards, just the spec for rigidity isn't good enough.


    As for the 3mm ply, I think it actually makes matters worse. If you put it over old floorboards that will be up and down a bit, the wood will bridge over the the hollows etc, and will not be rigid enough to self support over these areas.
    It may work if you screwed every 50mm, but that would be nuts.

    If you need it level (with next room), remove the floorboards, strengthen, and floor with 25mm ply. Job done...........correctly
    go on, adopt a greyhound
    http://www.dgrescue.org.uk/
  • handyman.
    handyman. Posts: 305 Forumite
    i have posted a link to BAL adhesives which states my case 100%.

    I think you should be trying to prove your side of the story, instead of trying to change the subject back onto me.



    I have to now repeat the same thing.......

    nowhere does it say anything about 3mm ply. Its either a properly supported t&g floor, or over lay with 15mm ply.

    Thats it, simple as...................although cement board is a good option as well
    go on, adopt a greyhound
    http://www.dgrescue.org.uk/
  • handyman.
    handyman. Posts: 305 Forumite
    next thing you'll be telling us to splash pva everywhere before tiling
    go on, adopt a greyhound
    http://www.dgrescue.org.uk/
  • BobProperty
    BobProperty Posts: 3,245 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Again, need more detailed information? look in other posts, ....
    I don't need to "look in other posts", I said go by what is in the links to UHM. I want you to justify using a brand of tile adhesive straight onto floorboards where it is specified by the manufacturer of the adhesive that it needs to be "sufficiently rigid" and "firmly screwed down" without there being details for "sufficiently rigid" and "firmly screwed down". So, what is your definition of "sufficiently rigid" and "firmly screwed down" because, unless it is as good as or better than the one the manufacturer is using (and, so far, we don't know what that is) then any failure won't be the adhesive manufacturer's fault.
    A house isn't a home without a cat.
    Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.
    I have writer's block - I can't begin to tell you about it.
    You told me again you preferred handsome men but for me you would make an exception.
    It's a recession when your neighbour loses his job; it's a depression when you lose yours.
  • BobProperty
    BobProperty Posts: 3,245 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    So when you are using the adhesive that allows you to tile directly onto floorboards, Nicobond Tile To Timber, the specification of "sufficiently rigid" and "firmly screwed down" is quote:

    Tongue and groove boards must be firmly screwed down and sufficiently rigid to receive ceramic tiling.

    and how you achieve the rigidity needed for ceramic tiling, is quote:
    "For ceramics use minimum 15mm plywood, firmly fixed at 300mm centres"

    (I suppose you could always put it on the back of the floorboards. :confused:)
    So either you overboard in 15mm ply or we are no nearer a definition of "sufficiently rigid to receive ceramic tiling". Perhaps they could use BAL's definition, so back to my previous post:
    Boards must be screwed or screw nailed to the supporting joists and noggins at maximum 300mm centres
    I wouldn't have to try too hard to get a barrister to interpret that as meaning the joists need to be no more than 300mm apart and there must be noggins every 300mm. Now, as a few of us keep saying, has anyone seen a floor to that standard?


    Do you begin to understand why some of us have problems even with manufacturer's advice? With requirements like that they can give all the guarantees they want because if anyone makes a claim, the response will be "you didn't prepare it properly".
    A house isn't a home without a cat.
    Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.
    I have writer's block - I can't begin to tell you about it.
    You told me again you preferred handsome men but for me you would make an exception.
    It's a recession when your neighbour loses his job; it's a depression when you lose yours.
This discussion has been closed.
Meet your Ambassadors

🚀 Getting Started

Hi new member!

Our Getting Started Guide will help you get the most out of the Forum

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 352.2K Banking & Borrowing
  • 253.6K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 454.3K Spending & Discounts
  • 245.2K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 600.9K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 177.5K Life & Family
  • 259K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 16K Discuss & Feedback
  • 37.7K Read-Only Boards

Is this how you want to be seen?

We see you are using a default avatar. It takes only a few seconds to pick a picture.