Grade II listed property

squirrelpie

Part L still applies to listed buildings, so I'm surprised EH didn't fit any insulation? It might be worth finding out what they did do, and who approved it etc. Local Council for Listed Building permission; Probably they did building control as well; should all be public records.

Magnitio

You will find some excellent articles on all aspects of dealing with energy efficiency in listed buildings here:

https://historicengland.org.uk/advice/technical-advice/retrofit-and-energy-efficiency-in-historic-buildings/

Ectophile

Surely if it's only Grade 2 listed, you should be able to do all sorts of things, so long as you don't change the outside appearance or make structural changes.

If you have access to the loft, then unrolling a few rolls of glass fibre isn't really an alteration at all. Secondary double glazing can slot into the existing window openings.

Check your local DIY store to find all sorts of draught proofing solutions for doors. That could be rubber strips, foam rubber or dense brushes.

stripling

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82153765#Comment_82153765

Exactly this.

@ITCHYMUPPET I owned a Grade 2 listed property and the rules applied to what could be seen not what was inside. It was Georgian and had huge sash windows. I could have replaced them with double or triple glazing but they had to conform to the Georgian frame design and structure (eyewateringly expensive). I changed the fireplace, I did all kinds of work on the property and loft insulation was a no-brainer.

I put a kitchen in from scratch (it didn't have anything except a tap sticking out of the wall).

When repairs were needed externally they had to conform obviously but no one dictated the internal plaster etc. I sold the property and it went through rigorous surveys and paperwork but there were no problems at all with any of the work.

I was also permitted to do a few very discrete things at the rear of the building if I wanted (a gas flue which I didn't do in the end). I know someone with a heat pump in a listed building but it had to be completely out of sight at the rear of the building. But they were permitted to bring a pipe through the rear wall.

I think you need to get proper advice on this because it's not that rigid beyond the obvious external stuff. As for the meters they're going to have to be changed anyway because they reach end-of-life so it's probably time things were upgraded anyway.

Meanwhile, full length heavy curtains are great in winter. Try Ikea's blackout curtains around £50-60 a pair. I have 2 pairs over a huge ceiling to floor window and a thermal camera proved their very good heat retaining values. Ikea's black out blinds were similar.

t0rt0ise

Sometimes internal things are also covered by the listing. I live in a listed Georgian property and things like the original coving (conicing) in the living room is covered. You do have to be careful and get permission for changing anything.

ITCHYMUPPET

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82153765#Comment_82153765

There is no loft, so essentially a pitched roof, membrane and painted wood between me and the elements.

As I have already said, the front windows have secondary glazing. It reduces noise a little but makes no noticeable impact on heat retention.

The doors already have brushes but they are timber. I suspect they are not square now having been subjected to the elements.

ITCHYMUPPET

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82154259#Comment_82154259

Exactly this

I can't even hang a picture without permission so anything beyond that will be a nightmare.

drspouse

Do you have floorboards with gaps? Rugs will help but so will this stuff:

https://stopgaps.com/

dunstonh

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82154595#Comment_82154595

Something isn't right here. You say it is grade II listed but the restrictions make is sound like its grade 1 ior grade 2*. A grade 2 listing would not prevent you from hanging a picture.

Cruixer

My house was built in 1820, although sounds like a very different construction as mine has walls 1-2 ft thick stone.

The first and cheapest thing that should be done with old houses is to deal with draughts. Draught strips, caulk etc only costs a few pounds and is the biggest return on investment you will ever have in terms of heating old houses. I cannot understate this part.

Next best return is loft insulation.

Then walls. My house is not listed, but in a conservation area so I can't change the outside, so I have mostly gone for modern internal insulation on the walls of the most used rooms - as long as the outside of the house is vapour open, I find that modern materials on the inside don't cause a problem.

You probably can't double glaze, but its usually the poorest return anyway. Secondary glazing will make a difference as long as its well sealed, but need to watch for condensation in between.

If are not allowed to insulate the walls or mess much with the fabric of the house then beyond draught proofing there is very little you can do. Heat pumps won't give enough energy for an uninsulated house, gas is still about the cheapest option. Stoves can help because you can sit near them.