Putting up a dartboard board on thin wall

Slinky

Are there neighbouring houses that are built the same? Can you ask a neighbour if they know the construction type?

Arsenal2019

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82074540#Comment_82074540

that’s worth a try! I shall do that

Arsenal2019

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82074481#Comment_82074481

Thank you very much for taking the time to respond with that much detail

ButterCheese

As long as you are not above or below a socket or light switch, you can assume there's no electrical wire behind. You can then try to locate the studs with a stud finder (~£20), or use a magnet to try and find the plasterboard screws which go into the stud. If you can't find any of that, it might be stuck directly to the brickwork. In either scenario, drill a 5mm hole and see what's behind. If it's a cavity then you can use cavity wall anchors which is what is holding our TV up. As long as you have enough anchor points (at least 4 but ideally 8) it should be fine. The weight is acting down so even 9mm plasterboard is able to hold it if you do it properly. If you want a large backing board, most studs are 400mm or 600mm apart so you could span 2 x 400mm or 2 x 600mm and screw in each corner if this is actually where you want to hang the board.

If you find brick immediately behind the board then you need a masonry drill bit and a hammer drill. You stick a wall plug in and bob's your uncle. one in each corner will be fine.

You can overthink this a lot, but if done properly with the correct fixings then it'll hold. We have a TV on a telescopic arm of about 600mm, and it's held with 8 plasterboard fixings (there were no wooden studs in the right places) and it's solid as a rock. Usually scare stories about fixing into plasterboard are because people use wall plugs, which won't hold, or they don't use enough anchor points to spread the load.

I use this type and they are good. But you need to have a bit of knowledge. I can explain in detail if required

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82075023#Comment_82075023

Good info there.

I think I recall - from just about my only experience of a D&D'd finish, which had been very well done - the wall surface felt very solid, whereas p'board on studwork can feel and sound more hollow - it'll likely have more bounce if thumped mid-stud-spacing.

Taking down the p'board was a pain - these dabs held it very securely, so it had to be shredded. Lots of dabs, too, so it was very firm. And the dabs themselves were rock-hard.

What does your wall feel like, Arsenal? If you thump it at around shoulder height with the heel of your palm, and work your way sideways, does it feel less bouncy every 400 or 600mm? Sound more hollow in between? Or is it really solid and even, and not sound hollow at all?

FreeBear

As long as you are not above or below a socket or light switch, you can assume there's no electrical wire behind.

Safe zones are also horizontally as well as vertically from sockets & switches (and any other electrical fittings). Even then, it is unwise to assume that there are no cables or pipes buried in the wall where you are drilling.

Metal detectors should warn of hidden cables, but are useless when it comes to plastic pipes that are often found in modern builds. If in doubt, a small screwdriver can be used to gently make an exploratory hole in a plasterboard wall before getting the big drills out.

Arsenal2019

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82075023#Comment_82075023

thank you for that in depth reply. I’ll be honest, that hyperlinks to the fixing you’ve sent me, I’ve never seen that item before and I’ll no doubt not have the correct drill bits / equipment to prep for it?

Arsenal2019

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82075164#Comment_82075164

the whole wall feels hollow I’ll be honest, there are small thin upright sections it seems which seem a little harder- but even still it doesn’t feel the hardest.

I had my stud finder come today and I’m pretty sure I have upright studs in the wall I want to hang it on. (Exterior wall)

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82075674#Comment_82075674

What was the studfinder set on - timber or metal?

A different house (Persimmons) from around the same vintage had my first (and thankfully only) example metal studwork. MIL's house, and I was asked to mount some pretty heavy wall cabinets. I couldn't locate the studs using thumps, as it was all very similar - hollow. I didn't have a studfinder either, so behind where one cupboard was to hang, there exists to this day (I'm guessing) a long horizontal series of 2mm drill holes… The metal frame was so thin, that I barely noticed going through it.

I suspect that the 'butterfly' 'Gripits' you have in your first post will be the easiest and most reliable to use. But you will need a suitable 'flat' bit that'll make a clean cut through the 'board.

It would help if you showed us the dartboard, and how it is meant to be mounted.

ButterCheese

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82075670#Comment_82075670

They expand out behind the board and then pinch up tight behind it. They come in different lengths/diameters but you can get a set of mixed sizes off temu for very little! If you're not going into brick then any old drill bit of the correct size will do the job to get through plasterboard