Extension Lead for Powerful Appliances - do they exist?

BlueonBlue

Rubbish …..I have been using very short extension leads for decades on fridges Ive got four fridges although not all are always running .

If I go away for months then I empty and turn fridges off

Ultimately the OP can do whatever they want that works obviously you use the shortest decent branded lead and not some tat .

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81861241#Comment_81861241

Thank you.

So the socket switches are easy to get to if needed, which is important.

There would be nothing wrong afaIcs in using an inline junction box and an extra short length of suitable flex. These are fully rated, have cable restraints, and are neat & durable.

As said by others, the weak link in a normal extension lead is the socket, and every time you pull the appliance out is likely to add unwanted movement to it.

Section62

Rubbish …..I have been using very short extension leads for decades on fridges Ive got four fridges although not all are always running .

If I go away for months then I empty and turn fridges off

Ultimately the OP can do whatever they want that works obviously you use the shortest decent branded lead and not some tat .

…and how exactly are you checking the branded item is a genuine one, not cheap knock-off tat?

Even branded items are not a guarantee of quality. I've opened up the trailing socket of non-rewireable branded leads and it is obvious the manufacturer has value engineered the product down to the absolute minimum, or beyond.

If you are relying on branding to decide what is and isn't safe then you don't appear to be qualified to decide what is and isn't "Rubbish".

danrv

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81861265#Comment_81861265

That would be best really. Sometimes the cable clamp can be quite difficult to remove and renew. The cable is likely to be connected to the power supply board using spade or screw terminals.

Otherwise a 2m single socket extension lead would work ok.

Heedtheadvice

@Anoneemoose,

You are getting several well intentioned( I hope) suggestions but for your situation only Section62 is giving really good advice!

In your situation I would bite the bullet and do a proper job. After all it will be there for years and you should want it functional and easy to switch off/ disconnect for 'maintenance' and if there are problems.

If the kitchen socket you are currently using is on a a ring main I would get an electrician in to install two dedicated spurs off that ring main with accessible fused switches above worktop height. In this way you avoid any dubious extensions, have sockets close to the appliances correctly rated and can switch off the power to them in case of problems. For example, consider that dishwashers can be one of the more common ( but low risk ) causes of fires from their heaters so an an easy accessible way of switching them off externally is good as is a way to do so for cleaning.

danrv

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81861241#Comment_81861241

It's mentioned that the dishwasher socket is easily accessible to switch on and off. I have appliance sockets installed in base units and I think that's normal.

For the OP's dishwasher, I don't see a need to relocate this. Just fit a longer cable to the appliance.

mta999

Have a look at the rating plates on your appliances but a dishwasher will typically use about 10 amps max and a fridge freezer about 1-2 amps max so a total of 11-12 amps - within the 13 amps rating of the plug so just make sure you get a decent uncoiled extension lead

TELLIT01

Is it possible to get an electrician to fit longer cables to the appliances to enable them to be pulled out further?

Section62

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81861762#Comment_81861762

Using the rating plate current has to be done with caution as the quoted figure might be an 'average' or 'typical', not a 'maximum'.

The compressor start and run currents of typical fridge freezers are likely to be a lot more than 1 or 2 amps. And if there is a heating element for auto defrost then that alone could draw 2 or 3 amps.

The OP isn't planning to use both appliances on one extension lead, so the cumulative current of multiple appliances isn't the issue here.

Rodders53

Bosch dishwasher… standard lead is 1.7 metres long and 10A fused… Surprised it's much of an issue if the socket it goes into is behind it… Often more difficult to get the cable back without snagging it.

12005926 Dishwasher Mains Power Cable | BOSCH GB

Ask the manufacturer if they sell longer cables for the model you have - should you feel it essential.