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Bathroom Leak - what to do?

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Comments

  • GDB2222
    GDB2222 Posts: 26,875 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    WIAWSNB said:
    I don't think Maffy should DIY a cistern removal. It shouldn't be necessary, and is a whole new order of pain.
    It’s not hard. I have done it several times. 
    No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?
  • GDB2222 said:
    WIAWSNB said:
    I don't think Maffy should DIY a cistern removal. It shouldn't be necessary, and is a whole new order of pain.
    It’s not hard. I have done it several times. 
    True, but it’s not necessary in this case. A box spanner will remove the nut without disturbing the cistern.
  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 2,785 Forumite
    1,000 Posts First Anniversary Name Dropper
    GDB2222 said:
    WIAWSNB said:
    I don't think Maffy should DIY a cistern removal. It shouldn't be necessary, and is a whole new order of pain.
    It’s not hard. I have done it several times. 
    And I can do it standing on my head with both arms tie...
    What I'm saying it, it is FAR more involved than just replacing the inlet valve, and carries FAR more risk of subsequent leaks. The doughnut needs to be seated correctly, and the two securing bolts fully sealed too. 
    There is just no need. Not unless you are familiar with it as you are. 
  • plumb1_2
    plumb1_2 Posts: 4,631 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    GDB2222 said:
    WIAWSNB said:
    I don't think Maffy should DIY a cistern removal. It shouldn't be necessary, and is a whole new order of pain.
    It’s not hard. I have done it several times. 
    Ya dead easy, if the bolts are not rusted up, and you have to saw them out, not to mention the bolts turning when you’re trying to cut them, with a pad saw..
    And what about replacing the donut washer. 
    Does the Op know how to remove the cistern lid if it’s bolted down?
    I certainly wouldn’t have faith in the op doing the above, when a small adjustable spanner and box spanner will do the job if they can remove the lid.
    My prediction is that the OP will employ a plumber, and they’ll sort it out in 20 minutes 
    A thankyou is payment enough .
  • Maffy52
    Maffy52 Posts: 89 Forumite
    Second Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    WIAWSNB said:
    As for the cistern, it looks completely sortable as it stands - no need to detach - and you are seemingly up for the task
    Sooo, no need to remove the cistern - a different level of pain. 

    Thanks, super clear. Yes, I'm not going to remove the cistern, no need and could just create another problem! 
  • Maffy52
    Maffy52 Posts: 89 Forumite
    Second Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    GDB2222 said:
    I think you need to make a decent size hole in the downstairs ceiling so you can rule out rot. There probably isn’t any, but you should check. Use a 10cm hole saw, and when finished inspecting you can replace the plasterboard disc and fill it. 

    If you remove the cistern, buy a new doughnut washer. 
    Yes, this is a good idea. Will do this, as I am concerned this leak has been around some time. Much easier from below and can check the joists... 
  • Maffy52
    Maffy52 Posts: 89 Forumite
    Second Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    WIAWSNB said:
    GDB2222 said:
    WIAWSNB said:
    I don't think Maffy should DIY a cistern removal. It shouldn't be necessary, and is a whole new order of pain.
    It’s not hard. I have done it several times. 
    And I can do it standing on my head with both arms tie...
    What I'm saying it, it is FAR more involved than just replacing the inlet valve, and carries FAR more risk of subsequent leaks. The doughnut needs to be seated correctly, and the two securing bolts fully sealed too. 
    There is just no need. Not unless you are familiar with it as you are. 
    I think for me, I don't have the skills, so will just keep it simple, as you say less risk of making another problem.
  • Maffy52
    Maffy52 Posts: 89 Forumite
    Second Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    WIAWSNB said:
    Maffy52 said:
    danrv said:

    The floor just needs to completely dry out and then be checked for any warping. Some wood hardener may help if the ply has softened.
    Yes, this is my concern now. How to assess the state of the floor,  Need let it dry for a week or two first. The thin ply sheet the tiles were fixed to I guess I can remove and replace any sections which have been wet.
    It feels like the plywood floor itself also have some 'bubbles' (at least the top layer!). Should this also be replaced as a precaution, perhaps just cutting out affected parts up to the joists?
    If the ply has 'delaminated', then the loose layers will need peeling/cutting off as it will obviously create problems when laying the tiles back down.
    However, it should only require very localised 'lifted' parts to be cut and peeled off, and only if really necessary. First, allow it to dry fully, and then use a straight edge across the floor to assess this. Take low-angle pics and post on here if needed. Most likely, if any bits do need trimming away, the resulting hollows can be filled with a suitable filler to get it all flat and level again. 
    Try to avoid actually cutting away full-thickness 'sections' of flooring, as that will be a different order of pain.

    Thanks, the floor seems fairly solid and will do as you say and peel away layers. I can just cut like 2mm into the layers with a stanley knife around the affected areas; where it have been wet and softened. It is not all of the floor, just in the middle and around the toilet. I was thinking to cut away straight edged layers and the stick some 2/3mm ply into the hole (cut to the right size). Would this make sense?
  • Maffy52
    Maffy52 Posts: 89 Forumite
    Second Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    Based on what I have learnt from the comments, the following seems sensible/reasonable;

    - Cut a hole in the ceiling below to check any problems under the floor, for peace of mind. 
    - I'm NOT going to remove the cistern and will replace the fill/inlet valve with a brass one (it does look cheap the one I have, this is likely what caused the problem!). 
    - Let the floor dry for a week or two, cut away thin sections of damaged wood. If things look okay, I will replace with thin pieces of ply cut to size (maybe some wood hardener wouldn't hurt!). If things are worse than expected, time to get a pro in I think!
    - Refit the tiles (shame I didn't take a photo of how they were before I pulled them up!).

    Thanks to everyone who gave helpful advice to me, much appreciated. Happy Christmas!
  • Maffy52
    Maffy52 Posts: 89 Forumite
    Second Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    plumb1_2 said:
    GDB2222 said:
    WIAWSNB said:
    I don't think Maffy should DIY a cistern removal. It shouldn't be necessary, and is a whole new order of pain.
    It’s not hard. I have done it several times. 
    ... a small adjustable spanner and box spanner will do the job if they can remove the lid. 

    Yes, this is much easier, lifting the cistern doesn't make sense!
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