Boiler Pressure Low ; Glow- Worm 24 cxi

WIAWSNB

Set the clock switch to 'I', and then use the room stat to control the heating, up and down, on and off.
And there is almost certainly a direct replacement for that Honeywell that will do both timings and temps for you; are you aware of 'Programmable Thermostats'?
And Smart ones?
What'cha fancy?

WIAWSNB

Straight replacements appear to include:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-t3-1-channel-wired-programmable-thermostat/901KT?tc=IC4

https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-t4-1-channel-wired-programmable-thermostat/8672v

But you can almost certainly go 'Smart' for little more. 

Albermarle

Tiggy777 said:

Yes of course...

It is not relevant to your current issue, but it appears that your radiator flow temperature is turned up quite high, but the hot water is turned right down . Maybe even cold/tepid?

WIAWSNB

Albermarle said:

It is not relevant to your current issue, but it appears that your radiator flow temperature is turned up quite high, but the hot water is turned right down . Maybe even cold/tepid?

Almost identical to my settings!

For the DHW control, the section below the wide red band turns off the 'preheat' which used to drive me nuts - it fired up seemingly every few minutes. I'm not sure that lower section even adjusts the temperature - mine is darned scalding in that position. 

The CH temp there relates to around the mid to high 60s, I think, so a return presumably at around 50oC. That's what my hoosie requires, in order to feed the original rads  

Tiggy777

Hi 

I really like your comment/idea, about leaving the boiler on 24/7 and then using a update stat room to control both the time on/off and temp, if I have understood you correctly ?

Just to add to my confusion, in my airing cupboard there is a box which I have google and I believe it is a Honeywell BDR91 which is a wireless connection to my room stat.  I appreciate the controller you have linked are wired so I am guessing they are non suitable ?

The saga continues !

Appreciate all your on going support and help

Thank you

Tiggy

WIAWSNB

Tiggy777 said:

Hi 

I really like your comment/idea, about leaving the boiler on 24/7 and then using a update stat room to control both the time on/off and temp, if I have understood you correctly ?

Just to add to my confusion, in my airing cupboard there is a box which I have google and I believe it is a Honeywell BDR91 which is a wireless connection to my room stat.  I appreciate the controller you have linked are wired so I am guessing they are non suitable ?

The saga continues !

Appreciate all your on going support and help

Thank you

Tiggy

You are absolutely right. Yup, I'd assumed the wall 'stat was 'wired', whereas it must be wireless.
This is really good news, as you can have pretty much any Smart stat you want.
So, what'cha fancy? 
Are you familiar with any? Any friends or relatives using 'Smart'?
The essential difference is, Smart allows phone app setup and control. It's brill. You can literally set your heating to come on on the way home. 
So, any thoughts?

Tiggy777

Think l would like to go smart...the current timer is throwing a wobby...lost 2 hours today then stopped at 1630 !!!
However as l am presuming l would need to get a new receiver box thingy l am now thinking it might be best to get an update honeywell stats to do timers etc which will work with my current receiver which l think it a Honeywell BDR91...my current room stat is a Honeywell DT90E (both according to Google imagine) !

WIAWSNB

I understand there is a Honeywell programmable room stat that is compatible with that same receiver - the T3R. 
https://ebay.us/m/WfJw26 etc.
A 'prog' stat is set to give you the temps you want at the times you want them. Eg, 19oC at 7am, 16oC at 9am, up to 20oC at 5pm, etc, and it can be overridden any time you like. So, the 'clock' on the boiler can be ignored.
However, much better is a full Smart setup with phone app control. This is super-easy to program on your phone, and a couple of touches will change the temp any time you like, even away from home. It's truly fab.
Literally, as I type this, I've checked my room temp and find it's 19oC. As I'm toasty with a blanket over my knees and a hot dawg by my side, I've knocked it down to 18.5oC so the boiler will stay off for a bit, prob staying off until the nighttime setting. Instant saving - I wouldn't have bothered getting off my butt to manually do this (portrait artist of t'year on...)
However, this will need your current receiver to be swapped, tho' it's a simple task, no more complex than wiring a plug. We can guide you.
These are really neat: https://ebay.us/m/aMgRg0

Tiggy777

I agree with you based on if changing a receiver is easy and l will get a lot more with a modern stat and app....
Can l check my logic in that the boiler.is set to on all the time and the stat fires it up at the relevant times you programe ? Just wanted to check th8s....as the timer in the boiler has given up and is no longer holding time or even rotating !

Many thanks Tiggy

WIAWSNB

Tiggy777 said:

I agree with you based on if changing a receiver is easy and l will get a lot more with a modern stat and app....
Can l check my logic in that the boiler.is set to on all the time and the stat fires it up at the relevant times you programe ? Just wanted to check th8s....as the timer in the boiler has given up and is no longer holding time or even rotating !

Many thanks Tiggy

Yes, exactly.
The clock switch is set to 'on', and the clock can then be ignored - it doesn't matter if it works or not.
A prog stat then handles the timings and the temps - you set both according to what you anticipate wanting, and they can be different each day.
The App types are a step further as they are so easy to set up, and also give 'remote' control.
For the little difference in cost, I know what I'd go for.
Now't wrong with good 2nd-user items either - all of mine are, and they are like brand new. Since they are app-controlled, I rarely touch the actual units anyway!
I'll check to confirm, but I suspect your existing receiver has a 'standard' backplate, so the Hive's receiver is likely to clip straight on - not even any wiring required.