Boiler Pressure Low ; Glow- Worm 24 cxi

Tiggy777

Hi all

Really hope someone can please help.

I have a Glow-worn 24cxi comb boiler which has low pressure and I can't seen to increase it.

On my old boiler see Pic 1 I had 2 levers.  I would turn lever 1 (A) and would hear water come in and then turn lever 2 (B) to increase the pressure. , which I would se increase in the dial.

In pic 2 my glow worn boiler all I can see underneath is a blue handle (C) which when I turn as per the instruction...I hear nothing and no water seems to fill...it like I need to open another lever before but I have no idea which one if any.. 

I have search on line and read the manual and instructions son the boiler (Pic 3) put it just makes reference to the blue handle.

Would be really great for any advice or comments please.

Many thanks for your time taken to read this.

Regards

Tiggy

WIAWSNB

Welcome to GlowWorm.

That blue knob is the correct beast, and there's only one to turn - that baby.

I have this near-exact situation myself at the moment, and I know I'll need to carry out a repair task if my pressure drops.

There are two known issues regarding this with CXi GlowWorms. The first is that the blue knobbed top-up tap breaks/disengages inside. Therefore, the turning has no effect - I suspect that's what you have. 

Solution is to replace it. DIYable, but a bit nerve-wracking if you aren't used to this. 

My first time, over a decade ago, had a sizeable jet of water fly across the room. Now, however, it's a breeze.

What does it feel like when you turn the knob anti-clock? 

The water flow then goes to a weird pressure valve on the LH side - you can trace the copper pipe. This component has its own trick, and that's to release a glug of water every time you turn the blue tap. Mine has gone further - it releases a downwards jet, so the boiler doesn't actually refill. I have the replacement sitting in my cupboard for when it's needed...

So, what do you do? First, stick a pan under this outlet (yellow arrow) - that where water might come out;

Then open the blue tap a good two or three turns or more, and then gently and repeatedly thump it on its black body above, or even upwards on the blue knob, a number of times. Don't hit it so hard it breaks, obvs...

See the green arrow? That's to shut off the mains water to the boiler - either have a spanned ready on this, or else have your mains stopcock to hand. 

Good chance you'll need your plumber, tho'...

Tiggy777

Hi WIAWSNB

Thank you so much for your time in replying and the information given...

When l turn the blue nob it like nothing, no sound, no feeling of any water movement around the boiler or pipes.  I do however get a dropping l guess from the area you have indicated on your picture.  I left the blue lever open and pressure when up about 0.5 bar over about 5 minutes.  It sort of registered an increase only when l turned the boiler off and on a few times....it wasn't a increase l watched in display.....l am currently at 1.0 bar but guess the pressure will drop again soon, l was ideally trying to get to 1.5 bar but was concerned about over pressurising it.

When you say turn it two it a good two or three turns.....if l turn to open it sort of drops down about 5mm then l can only turn about 1/4 to 1/2 rather than all the way around....is this correct as l didn't want to force it around more?

Hope this all makes sense and thanks again.

Regards

Tiggy

WIAWSNB

Tiggy777 said:

Hi WIAWSNB
Thank you so much for your time in replying and the information given...
When l turn the blue nob it like nothing, no sound, no feeling of any water movement around the boiler or pipes.  I do however get a dropping l guess from the area you have indicated on your picture.  I left the blue lever open and pressure when up about 0.5 bar over about 5 minutes.  It sort of registered an increase only when l turned the boiler off and on a few times....it wasn't a increase l watched in display.....l am currently at 1.0 bar but guess the pressure will drop again soon, l was ideally trying to get to 1.5 bar but was concerned about over pressurising it.
When you say turn it two it a good two or three turns.....if l turn to open it sort of drops down about 5mm then l can only turn about 1/4 to 1/2 rather than all the way around....is this correct as l didn't want to force it around more?
Hope this all makes sense and thanks again.
Regards
Tiggy

Ok, that's interesting.

The fact that the other thingie drips suggests that there is some water getting through - that is good. (It shouldn't drip, of course, but they usually do. If your tap worked correctly, you could expect a proper dribble out of there...)

The way your tap is behaving suggests the screw part inside has become detached or is worn. It's like an old-fashioned washer basin tap - as you turn it to open, it 'unscrews' a bit and takes a rubber washer inside away from the opening, so allowing water through. Yours sounds as tho' the screw part is probably faulty in itself, but the fact it still comes out - although in a weird way - does suggest it's left the 'washer' stuck behind - hence only allowing a trickle through. 

1 bar is fine. If it stays there, I'd be happy (I keep my boiler at this, as it's 'enough', and the lower the pressure, the less stress).

So, you can leave it open for however long it takes to get to a steady 1+ bar, or you can try tapping it gently. Bear in mind that if the washer suddenly comes away, it'll fill rapidly. So you'll need to be ready to turn the blue tap closed again, or shut off the mains inlet, or turn off the mains stopcock. 

I'll remind you again - don't play with water unless you have cleared your access to your mains stopcock!

Ultimately, you need a new tap. They make the shafts in brass, now, for obvious reasons. It'll be a 20-minute job for a GS to do, so perhaps a friendly one will pop in on his way home from work, and charge a commensurate amount.

They might want you to get the part first? £10-ish. 

Tiggy777

Hi WIAWSNB

Again thank you so much for your reply again..

I think maybe l should monitor it for a few weeks before l do anything else...l gather due to the dripping it is 'filling' although very slowly.   Is it ok the leave open for a longer period as it filling if l sit there and monitor.  Not sure how long it may take ?

I also think l will buy a new tap as you suggests in case needed in the future...do you know the best place to buy and the name of part etc to ensure l don't get the wrong thing!!!!

You have certainly put my mind a rest in terms of what l can do and more importantly what not to do....thanks again.

Kind regards

Tiggy

WIAWSNB

Tiggy777 said:

Hi WIAWSNB

Again thank you so much for your reply again..
I think maybe l should monitor it for a few weeks before l do anything else...l gather due to the dripping it is 'filling' although very slowly.   Is it ok the leave open for a longer period as it filling if l sit there and monitor.  Not sure how long it may take ?
I also think l will buy a new tap as you suggests in case needed in the future...do you know the best place to buy and the name of part etc to ensure l don't get the wrong thing!!!!
You have certainly put my mind a rest in terms of what l can do and more importantly what not to do....thanks again.
Kind regards
Tiggy

Ok to keep it open, provided you do monitor it. 
I'm guessing you only have a digital pressure guage like mine? With no CH demand, the pressure will be displayed.
I get my spares from eBay. For things like filling taps, I'd suggest going for genuine GW parts. I'll have a look.
How old is your boiler? Do you have the manual for it? If so, check the back section - mine lists the parts, and even how to replace them.

Tiggy777

Hi WIAWSNB

Many thanks again.

The boiler as fitted in 2008 and unfortunately I cant find the manual.

Obviously would appreciate any help.

Many thanks again
Kind regards

Tiggy

WIAWSNB

Mine's 2004 

A 30CXi.

Pretty sure it's part 801679. This is an example of a genuine GW item: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116853315927?

There are others, but check they have the O rings included.

And lots of similar-looking taps for the newer CXi from 2010 or so. No idea if they are different. 

The part is held in place with a spring clip, which is reusable. A wee tub of silicone grease is always good - every home should have one. 

Are you going to DIY this?! If so, I can guide you. 

Tiggy777

Hi WIAWSNB

Many thanks for this...

I an totally thrown now as my dial timer isn't going around now...set it last night and it didn't move over night...can't believe it.  Woke up to a cold house.  Think my luck is running out as don't want to think about tap if timer doesn't work.

Shall l take a hammer to timer, would that help ?.

Appreciate your offer of assistance 

Many thanks 

Tiggy 

WIAWSNB

Taking a hammer will certainly feel good.
The best thing you can do, tho', is bypass the clock timer - have it 'on' 24hrs - and use the room stat for controlling the boiler. That will mean you'll need to manually turn up the heat in the morn, but at least you will have heat.
And then replace your existing room stat with a programmable type, ideally a 'Samart', app-controlled type. Pure joy.
Any chance of a pic of the boiler clock? And one of your room stat.
 

Tiggy777

Yes of course...