Can my radiator be fixed or do I need to replace it?

WIAWSNB

anonymous12124 said:

Thanks guys for the suggestions.

I left things as they were overnight and the good news is the boiler pressure guage is the same. The isolated radiator obviously continued to leak and I'd say there's a small amount of water, ~20ml in the tub.

I've decided that I'm just going to do a straight swap with a new radiator. The cheapest I've found that matches my current one is here:
https://www.plumbersmerchantsleicester.com/heating/radiators/double-convector-radiators-type-22/ultraheat-600mm-x-1400mm-double-panel-type-22-double-convector-radiator

I feel the risk of a further failure if I were to try and mend it with your approach would be higher because I'm not a pro. 

Totally understand. 

Will you be having your plumber swap them? I ask because if you are going for a different make - which you seem to be - then there's a decent chance it won't align perfectly with the old one, and some minor tweaks may be required. 

The annoying thing about 'minor tweaks' is that they are often much more involved than larger ones. Eg, moving a rad valve, say, 10mm away from where it currently sits is often far more awkward than running a completely new pipe up from the floor! 

If you instead bought the exact same rad - I know they are costly - then it would/should be a straight swap, and very DIYable.

anonymous12124

WIAWSNB said:

Totally understand. 

Will you be having your plumber swap them? I ask because if you are going for a different make - which you seem to be - then there's a decent chance it won't align perfectly with the old one, and some minor tweaks may be required. 

The annoying thing about 'minor tweaks' is that they are often much more involved than larger ones. Eg, moving a rad valve, say, 10mm away from where it currently sits is often far more awkward than running a completely new pipe up from the floor! 

If you instead bought the exact same rad - I know they are costly - then it would/should be a straight swap, and very DIYable.

I'm 50/50 as to whether I get my plumber to do it or do it myself. He is very busy at the moment so I'm having to call around. 

anonymous12124

Boohoo said:

Don't forget the inhibitor for extra protection.

I am not sure all makes are same and can be mixed with old stuff already in the system.

I used the same brand all the time.

Wouldn't it already be in the system? Isn't that part of the annual boiler/magna filter service?

WIAWSNB

anonymous12124 said:

Boohoo said:

Don't forget the inhibitor for extra protection.

I am not sure all makes are same and can be mixed with old stuff already in the system.

I used the same brand all the time.

Wouldn't it already be in the system? Isn't that part of the annual boiler/magna filter service?

When a rad is replaced, then it'll be refilled with fresh water - which also contains air. This shouldn't impact too much on a treated system, as usually the inhibitor content is concentrated enough to cope. 

However, the presence of even small amounts of sludge suggests there is some internal 'rusting' already taking place, so it would be wise to have the concentration level checked at the next service at least, and ask it made good if needed. You may need to request this as an extra. 

If you discover the removed rad is leaking due to a rust perforation, then fresh inhibitor should be a priority. 

But my money is still on it being a manufacturing flaw. 

I can't advise whether you should DIY this or not - I have no idea of your practicalness. What I would suggest is, the exact same rad should be a breeze, but an ill-fitting one possibly a 'mare. Unless you confirm the exact dimensions. 

Also bear in mind that a different make will almost certainly require new mounting brackets, so you'll need to be ready to do some drilling. If the wall is solid, then you'll need an SDS drill. If p'board, then a whole new world of hell awaits... :-)

Boohoo

anonymous12124 said:

Boohoo said:

Don't forget the inhibitor for extra protection.

I am not sure all makes are same and can be mixed with old stuff already in the system.

I used the same brand all the time.

Wouldn't it already be in the system? Isn't that part of the annual boiler/magna filter service?

Maybe in the system but as I am aware it is not part of the annual service or it has not been on my boiler for 4 years since new.

You haven't said how old the boiler or rads are and if you have added any new radiators to the system.

If leaking water the system maybe have corrosion as in your leaky rad.

Topping up with inhibitor would not do any harm.

anonymous12124

Boohoo said:

Maybe in the system but as I am aware it is not part of the annual service or it has not been on my boiler for 4 years since new.

You haven't said how old the boiler or rads are and if you have added any new radiators to the system.

If leaking water the system maybe have corrosion as in your leaky rad.

Topping up with inhibitor would not do any harm.

My boiler and magnafilter were installed in January 2017 along with all the radiators. No radiators added, this would be the first issue with the central heating system since. I have had an annual service every year because of the requirement for my 10 yr Ideal warranty.

I just had one gas guy quote me £240, £140 for the boiler and £100 for the labour. Too much I think for the labour. 

Boohoo

anonymous12124 said:

Boohoo said:

Maybe in the system but as I am aware it is not part of the annual service or it has not been on my boiler for 4 years since new.

You haven't said how old the boiler or rads are and if you have added any new radiators to the system.

If leaking water the system maybe have corrosion as in your leaky rad.

Topping up with inhibitor would not do any harm.

My boiler and magnafilter were installed in January 2017 along with all the radiators. No radiators added, this would be the first issue with the central heating system since. I have had an annual service every year because of the requirement for my 10 yr Ideal warranty.

I just had one gas guy quote me £240, £140 for the boiler and £100 for the labour. Too much I think for the labour. 

If it was me I would just get a plumber in as they have all the gear and knowledge and any issues it's down to them.

anonymous12124

Boohoo said:

If it was me I would just get a plumber in as they have all the gear and knowledge and any issues it's down to them.

I'm in the process of finding someone more reasonably priced. I don't think £100 is a fair labour charge for this work cnsidering I get the boiler and magnafilter serviced for £60.

I've got quotes ranging from £210-£280, this is parts+labour. I'm only going for guys with high reviews. 

anonymous12124

WIAWSNB said:

When a rad is replaced, then it'll be refilled with fresh water - which also contains air. This shouldn't impact too much on a treated system, as usually the inhibitor content is concentrated enough to cope. 

However, the presence of even small amounts of sludge suggests there is some internal 'rusting' already taking place, so it would be wise to have the concentration level checked at the next service at least, and ask it made good if needed. You may need to request this as an extra. 

If you discover the removed rad is leaking due to a rust perforation, then fresh inhibitor should be a priority. 

But my money is still on it being a manufacturing flaw. 

I can't advise whether you should DIY this or not - I have no idea of your practicalness. What I would suggest is, the exact same rad should be a breeze, but an ill-fitting one possibly a 'mare. Unless you confirm the exact dimensions. 

Also bear in mind that a different make will almost certainly require new mounting brackets, so you'll need to be ready to do some drilling. If the wall is solid, then you'll need an SDS drill. If p'board, then a whole new world of hell awaits... :-)

Thanks for the advice, I'm leaning heavily towards getting someone in, but at a fair price. I suspect based on what has been said in this thread, it should be 1-2 hours work. There's plenty of room around the radiator and the system is in otherwise good health. 

WIAWSNB

Assuming this is a Purmo rad, I understand it carries a 10-year warranty. So, well within.
Run this past the company. Tell them the evidence you have - annual services of your system, and indications are a flaw and not rust. Add that you'll get your GS to confirm with a visual report. Check they'll comply.
Then act.