Which power of induction hob can I fit?

WIAWSNB

What does the existing hob wire in to?
I'd assumed you'd be getting a sparky...
Anyhoo, a pic of the existing connector?

fabs35

I like to have a go myself first!

The grey cable (from the fuse board) connects directly to the existing hob. The new hob comes with it's own cable, and so I need to connect the two. 

grumpy_codger

fabs35 said:

I like to have a go myself first!

The grey cable (from the fuse board) connects directly to the existing hob. The new hob comes with it's own cable, and so I need to connect the two. 

Can't you disconnect the own cable?

fabs35

Yes, but it's no less confusing there...

WIAWSNB

Don't touch the hob cable at the hob end! In fact, don't alter the hob cable at all - it has very useful crimps at the end which will make the ultimate connection more reliable.
Was your previous hob a ceramic type? The kind that becomes actually 'hot'? And some twit wired a T&E cable directly to it? Lawdie. (Ok, possibly it's ok, but hey...)
You need a junction box, ideally designed for this very purpose. The Q is, where to mount it.
Could we have a pic of where that supply cable comes to the unit, please? And pics of the units under the hob, including those either side?

Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-capital-45a-unswitched-cooker-outlet-plate-white/7359k
Either sunk, or mounted on a pattress box.
AND, you need to understand the hob wires - could you post a pic from the instruction on wiring the hob, please?

grumpy_codger

fabs35 said:

Yes, but it's no less confusing there...

You have to connect your 6mm cable anyway. It doesn't matter whether you connect it to the new cable or to the cooker directly. What does the manual say about wiring to a 1-phase supply?

ETA: I'm pretty sure that blue and grey are newtral, black is an extra phase ('line'). You need brown and blue terminals.

WIAWSNB said:

Don't touch the hob cable at the hob end! In fact, don't alter the hob cable at all - it has very useful crimps at the end which will make the ultimate connection more reliable.

I don't see any problem with bending a rigid wire around a screw to make a loop. Slightly bigger washers can be added if needed.

ETA: a cooker plate is, of course, the ideal solution, but if you want to keep the existing cable you can use, say, this junction box to connect two cables:

WIAWSNB

Fabs, some more info, please. 

Do you have a switch in the kitchen that isolates the current hob? Phew. A picture of it, please.

And, a pic of the Samsung's connection block, please, including clear sight of the wiring instructions that should be on it. 

This is what it says in the instruction booklet;

fabs35

Wow - thanks for all your time guys!

Some more pics - and for info - the tenant that used to live in our, damaged the Siemens hob we had and I am assuming, replaced it with an Electra one himself.

I've attached pics of the fuse, the spur, under the hob(s), the diagram under both hobs and a pic of the diagram from the Samsung manual - I think that was everything?!

WIAWSNB

You have a 'cooker' wall switch - cool. Q - does this switch also supply an oven, or is it purely for the hob?
4th pic - where does that grey cable go to? Does it disappear into the wall, or go to a wall plate, like I linked to previously?
4th again - how does that grey cable avoid the sliding drawer?

WIAWSNB

fabs35 said:

Wow - thanks for all your time guys!

Some more pics - and for info - the tenant that used to live in our, damaged the Siemens hob we had and I am assuming, replaced it with an Electra one himself.

I've attached pics of the fuse, the spur, under the hob(s), the diagram under both hobs and a pic of the diagram from the Samsung manual - I think that was everything?!

Last pic indicates that the hob's brown and black wires need connecting to the Live - the brown wire in the grey supply cable.
And, the blue and grey hob wires go to the blue wire from the grey cable.
So, your jb needs to be able to take two hob wires in each terminal, which it should.