Old Storage Heater. Releasing too fast by early morning. 1 thing changed recently

OpolE

Scrounger said:

And if it is broken, why not simply replace it instead of altering the wiring?

Are you able to link me to places where you get the parts? I would have to source them first, otherwise I will need to get a proper storage heater engineer in who can do the parts and work

Scrounger

OpolE said:

Scrounger said:

And if it is broken, why not simply replace it instead of altering the wiring?

Are you able to link me to places where you get the parts?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-20a-1-gang-dp-control-switch-white-with-neon/13014

OpolE

Scrounger said:

OpolE said:

Scrounger said:

And if it is broken, why not simply replace it instead of altering the wiring?

Are you able to link me to places where you get the parts?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-20a-1-gang-dp-control-switch-white-with-neon/13014

That area is working with current.

The part in the right hand side of the actual heater does not show current on his reader

lohr500

@Scrounger is quite right.

Your electrician needs to do some more diagnostic work before anyone rushes out to buy a new switch.

The switch might be fine. It could be a heating element that has failed. If there are multiple heating elements and they are wired in series, then if one fails, they will all stop working.

As you have spotted, the switch on the right is different to the one on the left as it has a double contact arrangement. So it probably isn't possible to swap the switches over anyway. I imagine the "night" switch thermostat will be designed to operate at a much higher temperature range than the "day" boost thermostat. The "night" switch thermostat will be monitoring the core temperature.

What we don't know though is if the "day" side of the system uses a different heating element or if it is somehow uses the same element/s as the night side. (Possibly with the day thermostat cutting off at a much lower temperature).   

Also, depending on how the switch is assembled, you may well have to remove it complete with the capillary pipe and sensor bulb which presumably is buried somewhere in the core of the heater. You can see the capillary tubes on both switches in the photo, leading from the switches and back into the core.

I imagine the only way to get to the bottom of what is going on is to strip down the whole thing and trace the wiring.

Another fly in the ointment could be asbestos, if it is a really old storage heater. 

You mention there are no make or model details to be found. Have you had a really good look, including perhaps using a mirror to see if there is a data plate on the bottom somewhere?

If you wind the "night" control knob from one extreme to the other, does that cause the contact on the right hand switch to open and close?

Scrounger

lohr500 said:

@Scrounger is quite right.

Your electrician needs to do some more diagnostic work before anyone rushes out to buy a new switch.

The switch might be fine. It could be a heating element that has failed. If there are multiple heating elements and they are wired in series, then if one fails, they will all stop working.

The elements are always wired in parallel.  All the elements could have failed over time (but unlikely).  Check resistance with a multimeter.

lohr500 said:

What we don't know though is if the "day" side of the system uses a different heating element or if it is somehow uses the same element/s as the night side. (Possibly with the day thermostat cutting off at a much lower temperature).   

Its a separate element that runs right along the base of the heater.

lohr500 said:

Another fly in the ointment could be asbestos, if it is a really old storage heater. 

No asbestos, not that old - 1990s

OpolE said:

Scrounger said:

OpolE said:

Scrounger said:

And if it is broken, why not simply replace it instead of altering the wiring?

Are you able to link me to places where you get the parts?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-20a-1-gang-dp-control-switch-white-with-neon/13014

That area is working with current.

The part in the right hand side of the actual heater does not show current on his reader

Time to get your multimeter out @OpelE - this could be a useful learning experience.

You've already done the difficult part - removing the heater cover!

My guess that the fault will be either a bad connection or a broken wire (they tend to become brittle after years of heating and cooling).

One repaired should be good for another 20 years, save for an element or two. 

Scrounger

Scrounger

@OpelE, I've just realised that when you kept saying faulty 'switch' you mean the rotary 'input' control for the storage heater? - I thought you meant the wall switch, so sorry for my misunderstanding.

Again, this control could be checked using a multimeter in about 10 seconds - checking continuity across the contacts whilst rotating the knob, should observe a make and break.  This would be part of your fault finding.

These controls are usually very reliable and seldom fail IME but ebay is usually my source of replacement parts (new or used).


Scrounger

Phones4Chris

Yes, multimeter job. Check if off-peak mains power is getting to the terminals in the bottom of the heater, is it then getting to the thermostat input control.
I'm reckoning the input control thermostat part is broken.
Need make and model to source the correct internal parts if it's a problem inside the heater.
Also -

OpolE said: Also there's quite a bit of flashing when its heating up, like mini lightning. Seen it years before too.

Where exactly is that coming from?

OpolE

Phones4Chris said:

Yes, multimeter job. Check if off-peak mains power is getting to the terminals in the bottom of the heater, is it then getting to the thermostat input control.
I'm reckoning the input control thermostat part is broken.
Need make and model to source the correct internal parts if it's a problem inside the heater.
Also -

OpolE said: Also there's quite a bit of flashing when its heating up, like mini lightning. Seen it years before too.

Where exactly is that coming from?

The lighning/flashing is literally seen all along the bottom on the parts that heat up

tim_p

Have you checked for loose connections in the area of the flashing?

Phones4Chris

Sounds to me like the "electrician" he had in to check, wasn't very thorough