DIY Stable Renovation: Need Your Advice and Ideas!

Section62

sujsuj said:

1. It seems I’ll need to cut at least one foot from the metal sheets, likely because they were closest to the nearest standard size (see Pic-2). I suppose it wouldn’t be advisable to to leave the sheet as is without gutter!!

2. The edge trim might need to be bent to match the shape of the sheet before securing it to the top (see Pic-6). Edge trims are thin hopefully while scewing I can force it into the shape.

3. "I’ll need to figure out how to manage rainwater runoff through the edge trim (see Pic-3).

4. Need to try out how metal sheets for sides and back will look

Any additional thoughts?

1. Personally I'd extend the roof to match the length of the sheets - this is one advantage of using OSB+insulation underneath the sheet - the sheet will be supported along its whole length except for the overhang into the gutter.  I would use some short bits of 3x2 cut at an angle one end to match the slope of the roof, then screw these through the OSB to give you a vertical face to attach a fascia+gutter onto.

If you decide to cut the sheets then you'll need a "nibbler".  Cutting with an angle grinder will damage the coating.  Also make the cut at the top of the sheet so it is hidden under the ridge piece.  Check the ends of each sheet beore you start and look whether each one has a cut edge or a coated edge.  Avoid cutting the coated edges off if you can - these are less prone to corrosion , so have them along the bottoms.  The sheets are 'handed' so you may not be able to have all natural edges at the bottom.

2.  Don't bend the eaves (edge) trim - leave it flat.  Fix it to the roofing sheet using "stitching screws".  The stitching screw should go into the first 'ridge' of the roofing sheet, not the 'trough'. (the sheets are screwed to the purlins through the troughs though).  If you try bending the trims it will look horrible, and you don't need to do it.

3. Not sure what you mean, but if it is water dripping off the side of the edge trim then you can fix that by increasing the eaves overhang so the drips fall clear of the walls.  Again, this is an advantage of the OSB method - increasing the eaves overhang is simple.

4. Personally I'd stick with wood for all the walls.  Use the widest weatherboards you can get, paint them with barn paint.  If you use steel for the walls then bear in mind how easily it is damaged (e.g. by lawnmowers or strimmers) and if it does get damaged it isn't easy to repair (effectively you need to replace the whole sheet).

Section62

sujsuj said:

Any additional thoughts?

Meant to add... the piece you've got on the ridge looks like an eaves/edge trim rather than a ridge.  Usually the ridge piece is much 'flatter' - if used on a roof with a steeper pitch they are bent down to lay flat on the sheet as they are screwed on (with stitching screws).

If the angle is too acute for the pitch of the roof (like yours is) then it needs 'unbending' to lay flat on the roofing sheets - and the unbending usually results in new (reverse) bends in the flat parts, rather than opening up the main angle.

You should check whether you ordered ridge pieces and if they were delivered... if not, you might want to buy some now rather than forcing the eaves/edge trims to fit.

sujsuj

After a couple of months without updates, I have plenty of progress to share on this project. I sourced all the timber from Arnold Laver (www.laver.co.uk) and purchased the shiplap cladding and OSB boards from Panelling Direct (www.panellingdirect.co.uk). I believe I secured a great deal compared to DIY chains. For the OSBs, I opted for 11mm boards, as widely recommended.

Despite the rain, I am making steady progress. However, I discovered more rotten wood than expected, which means additional work. I have now reached the stage where I can start installing the OSBs on one side. I am waiting for 2–3 consecutive dry days, as both the OSBs and sheets need to be installed on the same day.

Additionally, I have purchased  Cromar Vent 3 Pro Breathable Roofing Felt Membrane for the roofing as well as cladding  areas.

FreeBear

sujsuj said:

After a couple of months without updates, I have plenty of progress to share on this project.

Pictures please

sujsuj

I will get photos soon.

In the meantime, is there a cheaper alternative to Celotex boards? Based on feedback, I am planning a 4-layer roofing system:

• Outer layer → Metal sheet
• Layer 2 → Cromar Vent 3 Pro Breathable Roofing Felt
• Layer 3 → Celotex boards or a more affordable alternative
• Inner layer → 11mm OSB board

The only item I still need to purchase is the Celotex boards. I’m wondering if aluminium foil membrane (like this one: link) or polystyrene sheets could be a suitable, cost-effective alternative.

The main purpose of this layer is to prevent condensation (sweating) inside the corrugated metal sheets. Would either of these options work well for this purpose?

I plan to add more insulation inside the shed to improve inside temperature so only purpose of board over OSB is to ensure no condensation inside of the metal sheets.

Section62

sujsuj said:

I will get photos soon.

In the meantime, is there a cheaper alternative to Celotex boards? Based on feedback, I am planning a 4-layer roofing system:

• Outer layer → Metal sheet
• Layer 2 → Cromar Vent 3 Pro Breathable Roofing Felt
• Layer 3 → Celotex boards or a more affordable alternative
• Inner layer → 11mm OSB board

The only item I still need to purchase is the Celotex boards. I’m wondering if aluminium foil membrane (like this one: link) or polystyrene sheets could be a suitable, cost-effective alternative.

The main purpose of this layer is to prevent condensation (sweating) inside the corrugated metal sheets. Would either of these options work well for this purpose?

I plan to add more insulation inside the shed to improve inside temperature so only purpose of board over OSB is to ensure no condensation inside of the metal sheets.

The way to save money would be to return the breathable roofing felt and get your money back.  As pointed out earlier in the thread it is utterly pointless using it in this situation.

If you put anything between the metal sheeting and insulation then it should be something impermeable like polythene.

The B&Q aluminium foil would be equally pointless.

Polystyrene could be used instead of celotex, but you'd need a greater thickness to achieve the same effect.  Polystyrene is also usually far more flammable than celotex, and would lack the foil coating which helps with fire resistance and also provides some vapour check effect.

Otherwise don't bother with the insulation+OSB and use anti-condensation felt instead.  But I'm fairly sure you'd regret doing this some time in the future.

casper_gutman

I'd stick with something like the Celotex boards. Shop around though - similar foiled PIR insulation boards from other manufacturers (e.g., IKO, Kingspan, Unilin, Recticel....) may be better priced so see what you can get from suppliers in your area.

sujsuj

Any opinion use these SuperFOIL  Multi-layer Thermal Insulation in the roof? So this will be used instead of Celotex .

Layers will be ...Metal sheet -> Polythene cover -> SuperFOIL  -> OSB board. Cost wise this is good option it seems..Thanks

SuperFOIL 

FreeBear

SuperFoil and other multifoil "insulation" is good at reflecting radiant heat back. Performs poorly when heat loss is through conduction. If you look at installation methods, the manufacturers invariably recommend a layer of Celotex type insulation as well.

To my mind, your money would be better spent on a few sheets of Celotex/Kingspan.

sujsuj

what is the name of this brace? rafter brace? I am struggling to find them online. Any help highly appreciated. These are used in the roof top to fix rafters to side wood. Thanks