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Skirting around woodburner?

paperclap
Posts: 773 Forumite

Wanting to fit some MDF skirting board either side of this woodburner.
There will be a “return” into the wall, and another “return” into the filler strips of the alcove units either side (glued with mitre adhesive).
If I fix this to the wall with just screws, given the drastic heat and humidity changes around a woodburner, do the screw heads run the risk of “popping” after being filled?
Or, better to use only grab adhesive? Or will that pull away with the heat and humidity changes?

There will be a “return” into the wall, and another “return” into the filler strips of the alcove units either side (glued with mitre adhesive).
If I fix this to the wall with just screws, given the drastic heat and humidity changes around a woodburner, do the screw heads run the risk of “popping” after being filled?
Or, better to use only grab adhesive? Or will that pull away with the heat and humidity changes?

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Comments
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I would not trust any MDF that close to a stove, do you want to tidy up the hearth to wall intersection?
If you decide to go down the MDF skirting route I cannot imagine it'll stay stuck for long
If you want a something there I'd go for a matching or contrasting tile, I think we used a long thin slate tile in our last house.0 -
As long as you maintain the appropriate distance between the stove and combustibles, it should be fine.
Given that you aren't matching a continuous skirt, it should also look fine without.0 -
Are you suggesting taking the skirting inside that fireplace opening to the back? If so, I think that would look weird. But, maybe not!
I think I'd take it to around 5mm of the opening, and terminate it there, using one of the accepted methods - such as mitring the end to continue the decorative top (eg ogee) down the end for a neat finish. As always, when in doubt, Pinterest!
Anyhoo, any skirting there will barely become warm from that stove - very little heat is radiated from the bottom area, and there will be a constant current of room air being drawn along there as well. Adhesive should work.
You could always light a fire - phew - and test this before skirting.
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This, for example, shows a normal, vertically-cut mitre, such as you'd make for an external corner - the 'return' piece is only as thick as the skirting itself.
Another way I've seen skirting ends finished neatly is to cut the board at 45o diagonally on its face, and add a similar return piece to it so the top decorative moulding effectively goes down the board end to finish it off - does that make sense?
At around 2 minutes:https://youtu.be/wtlwxAKIYs0?feature=shared
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ThisIsWeird said: Another way I've seen skirting ends finished neatly is to cut the board at 45o diagonally on its face, and add a similar return piece to it so the top decorative moulding effectively goes down the board end to finish it offA different take on finishing off skirting.As for running skirting in around the the opening - No, just no. The stove manufacturer will give a minimum distance to combustible materials which should be observed at all times.Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
FreeBear said:ThisIsWeird said: Another way I've seen skirting ends finished neatly is to cut the board at 45o diagonally on its face, and add a similar return piece to it so the top decorative moulding effectively goes down the board end to finish it offA different take on finishing off skirting.As for running skirting in around the the opening - No, just no. The stove manufacturer will give a minimum distance to combustible materials which should be observed at all times.0
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stuart45 said:FreeBear said:ThisIsWeird said: Another way I've seen skirting ends finished neatly is to cut the board at 45o diagonally on its face, and add a similar return piece to it so the top decorative moulding effectively goes down the board end to finish it offA different take on finishing off skirting.As for running skirting in around the the opening - No, just no. The stove manufacturer will give a minimum distance to combustible materials which should be observed at all times.It helps to have access to a lathe (a local Man's Shed is useful), or you can cobble something together using an electric drill - https://mistrymaketool.com/how-to-make-a-woodworking-lathe-drill-powered/Glue four strips of wood together with a strip of paper between each join. Once turned, you have a couple of spares.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Yes, I was thinking of only putting skirting on the face of the fireplace opening, with the returns (mitres), finishing flush with the corner (if the corner isn't too out, like everything else in this house!)
In which case, only screwing it to the wall should be just fine then?1 -
Should be fine - as long as you maintain the minimum distance to combustibles. That will be part of the stove spec.
The difference can be surprising. I had to remove a fair bit of surround to be compliant.0 -
paperclap said:Yes, I was thinking of only putting skirting on the face of the fireplace opening, with the returns (mitres), finishing flush with the corner (if the corner isn't too out, like everything else in this house!)
In which case, only screwing it to the wall should be just fine then?
To affix, use whatever system you prefer - heat will not be an issue.1
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