New radiator fitted- stone cold radiator and pipes

Fogle1980

The bottom right of the cold radiator also has a leak. The plumber said the dripping was the after effects of draining the old radiator or something to that effect. He said the dripping would stop but it’s been a day now. Could that be related to lack of heat or is it a different issue.

FreeBear

Fogle1980 said:

The bottom right of the cold radiator also has a leak. The plumber said the dripping was the after effects of draining the old radiator or something to that effect. He said the dripping would stop but it’s been a day now. Could that be related to lack of heat or is it a different issue.

Sounds like your "plumber" is a bit of a knob. If there is a drip, time won't stop it. Depending on exactly where the water is coming from, it may be that the nut on the valve needs pinching up a fraction. If it is leaking from the tail, it would be best to remove it, put some plumber's mait (a sealant) on the threads, and screw it back in.

The leak is only related in so much as the plumber hasn't done a very good job.

Fogle1980

FreeBear said:

Fogle1980 said:

The bottom right of the cold radiator also has a leak. The plumber said the dripping was the after effects of draining the old radiator or something to that effect. He said the dripping would stop but it’s been a day now. Could that be related to lack of heat or is it a different issue.

Sounds like your "plumber" is a bit of a knob. If there is a drip, time won't stop it. Depending on exactly where the water is coming from, it may be that the nut on the valve needs pinching up a fraction. If it is leaking from the tail, it would be best to remove it, put some plumber's mait (a sealant) on the threads, and screw it back in.

The leak is only related in so much as the plumber hasn't done a very good job.

Thanks, have messaged him about the leak. The only other thing I can think that might be causing issue is the new rad upstairs is a tall heated towel rail which replaced a rusted one. I’ve read that towel rads can cause bypass issues as they offer little resistance. Could this be possibly affecting the new rad (small single radiator) in the downstairs loo. Heating on atm and pipes and radiator still stone cold.

FreeBear

The type and size (power rating) of the radiator won't make any difference. Towel radiators are often used as a bypass, which means a TRV is not fitted. The lockshield still needs to be adjusted to give the correct temperature drop.

Fogle1980

Update…plumber has replaced the cold rad which had a pinhole leak. He tried a few things but basically said it’s definitely blocked on the pipes before radiator and there’s nothing further he can do.

So, my question is would it be possible to buy some chemicals to try and flush the system rather than paying hundreds to get someone to do it. 

Ganga

I think you might be better getting a proper plumber  /heating engineer in to do the job properly .

nofoollikeold

1. You can flush the system (but see below).  Add something like Sentinel X400 and let it circulate for a couple of weeks.  It should take and sediment into suspension.  At the end of those week, flush the system through with clear water.  Drain it, refill it, drain again, refill again.  Repeat as many times as you have patience for!
2. However, if a pipe is fully blocked, the flush won't work on that blockage, as the chemical can't get to it.  With the system empty, you can try poking down the pipes with a length of net curtain wire, or you can try using a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to get the blockage shifted.  The same caveat applies to power flushing, albeit with a slightly higher chance that the higher flow rate will dislodge a blockage.  
3. Once you are finished, add a litre (more if more than 10 radiators) of inhibitor (e.g. Sentinel X100) to the system.  
4. If possible, add a magnetic filter on the return pipe to the boiler, as close to the boiler as possible.  Monitor and clean the filter regularly, and it will take much of the sediment out of the system.  

Fogle1980

nofoollikeold said:

1. You can flush the system (but see below).  Add something like Sentinel X400 and let it circulate for a couple of weeks.  It should take and sediment into suspension.  At the end of those week, flush the system through with clear water.  Drain it, refill it, drain again, refill again.  Repeat as many times as you have patience for!
2. However, if a pipe is fully blocked, the flush won't work on that blockage, as the chemical can't get to it.  With the system empty, you can try poking down the pipes with a length of net curtain wire, or you can try using a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to get the blockage shifted.  The same caveat applies to power flushing, albeit with a slightly higher chance that the higher flow rate will dislodge a blockage.  
3. Once you are finished, add a litre (more if more than 10 radiators) of inhibitor (e.g. Sentinel X100) to the system.  
4. If possible, add a magnetic filter on the return pipe to the boiler, as close to the boiler as possible.  Monitor and clean the filter regularly, and it will take much of the sediment out of the system.  

Thanks for your detailed reply. I’m not sure if it’s fully blocked in as much as the new radiator filled with water ok when fitted but no hot water can get through. He tried poking a rod down the pipe prior to fitting the rad today and could feel some resistance but not enough to dislodge it. The plumber said the boiler return pipe was hot.

nofoollikeold

If either the flow or return pipe, but not both, is blocked, the radiator will still fill with water unless it becomes airlocked.  Loosening the bleed nipple will release any airlock.  However, there will be no water flow through the radiator.  

Fogle1980

nofoollikeold said:

If either the flow or return pipe, but not both, is blocked, the radiator will still fill with water unless it becomes airlocked.  Loosening the bleed nipple will release any airlock.  However, there will be no water flow through the radiator.  

Thanks nofoollikeold . Not sure if it’s relevant but the radiator closest to the cold one on the loop is hot on the bottom but alot colder from middle to top.