Relatively simple job, but one of my worst DIY jobs! How to recover repair. this.?

I just finished a simple bathtub sealing job, this end-up one of my worst DIY jobs as you can see from photos. I am seeking help here to see how could I recover/repair  this. I am reluctant  to remove the full sealent and restart again. Please help.

Tools & parts  Used : Plumbers GOLD, Gun, sealing excess tool (only one tip it had!) & removal tool 

Issue: I started applying sealant then decided to use excess removal tool to make it smoother surface and remove excess. I initially tried and saw the tool was shaped  in a way that it took too much sealant from corners. I decided blunt corner in a way that more sealant will be left in the corner. (looks like I might have cut it more than needed, see the tool pic) .

Rather than using finger I continued using tool and now its not showing smooth finish at all. Other issue I had was I couldn't remove taps so difficult to access behind tap to put sealant. So there too finish is not good!

Root causes..?
I think reason of uneven surface is due to fact that I might have tried to rub tool over sealant too late and by the time it already started to settle. I might have spoiled tool as well and should have bought a tool with different tips like below one instead os this one I used
https://www.screwfix.com/p/vitrex-all-in-one-sealant-remover-profiler-kit-35mm/82791

What next..?
I am planning to let the sealant settle  today and once completely settled will apple another layer over current sealant and then may make this tool another cut or use bigger finger to smoothen the corner and remove excess. I might end up having more sealant than needed, but hopefully it will not look this ugly!

Any suggestions to recover..?
My recovery/repair  will work..?
Did I get tool wrong &  cutting it spoiled?
Should I used fingers to remove excess sealant than tool?  
Am I using  wrong sealant..?


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Comments

  • bob_a_builder
    bob_a_builder Posts: 2,353 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 12 February 2024 at 12:19AM
    If it were me , I would remove that and start again. Don't think new stuff  will stick well to already dried silicon
    you already have a removal tool 
    Removal of the last bits can he helped by use of a sealant solvent like this
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987
    Or if not that some Meths can help 

    I have no experience of the 'shaping' tool you have been using 
    I use ones like this  ( although I have a fuller kit which has additions to avoid the dips caused by grout lines) , but even with those slight dips it should look much better as a nice 45 degree wedge. Although if you hold it at a suitable angle , should be able to  avoid 'falling' into the grout lines
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/cramer-fugi-profiling-tool-kit-3-piece-set/646fn

    Try to avoid using a finger which will give you a concave curve, a nice 45 degree angle looks better and you don't get those raised edges that you do when you use a finger

    Give this a watch 
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DI4hfHM_Hg
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    As you suspect, SS, the main issue is that the sealant had started to 'skin', hence the rough dragged finish.
    I've no idea if new sili will adhere adequately to old sili, but the consensus I've read suggests not. In any event, the subsequent finishing profile would have to be significantly larger than the original, to ensure it adds a sufficient extra layer, and your current layer seems as big as you'd want.
    If you look at the Fungi tools, you'll see a slimmer one amongst them - that might get behind your taps? If not, you may need to do what I've done and slice one in half...
    With a shower deck mixer giving really awkward access to one job, I'd had to cut the tool right down, and then clasp it in a plumber's wrench in order to run it behind the tap - annoying, but it worked. Always do a 'dry-run' of the full run before then adding sili. 
    Don't panic, tho' - you should have plenty of time. 
    Try to add enough sili, but not excessive. (D'uh). If you find too much removed sili building up so you need to wipe it off your tool mid-drag, or if you haven't added enough so have a holiday, then the way to restart is as follows: lift tool away whilst still moving. Sort the issue - either wiping tool clean, or adding a little more sili to the run. Reposition the tool a good foot behind where you had to stop, but don't press it into place as you normally do during the run. Start to move it along, whilst gently pressing it into contact as normal - you want the tool to gently 'land' whilst it's moving. It shouldn't leave a mark.



  • twopenny
    twopenny Posts: 7,097 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 12 February 2024 at 9:43AM
    I can vouch for new silicone makes a mess if applied over old.
    I made this mistake.

    It wasn't too much of a hassle to remove the lot once well set and redo with fresh.

    Cut the nozzle at an angle makes it more accurate and, if you get it right, will make the nice shape on its own
    I use a small damp sponge (old washing up sponges are good) to run along in one go once applied. A bowl of water to keep the sponge clean for each section.
    Paper towels to clear/polish either side if smudged once a few minutes dry but not on the bit you want to keep.

    I've not used plumbers gold. Just bog standard bathroom sealant.

    I can rise and shine - just not at the same time!

    viral kindness .....kindness is contageous pass it on

    The only normal people you know are the ones you don’t know very well


  • rob7475
    rob7475 Posts: 925 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    This really needs removing before starting again. Next time, I'd recommend Dow Corning 785+ silicone. It will last for years once done.

    Mix up a bit of washing up liquid and water in a spray bottle. Cut your nozzle at an angle and apply to the gap. Before tooling, give the silicone a spray with the washing up liquid / water mix - should give you a good finish.
  • May I suggest not using either water or a mix with washing up liquid. It's just not needed when using a Fugi-type tool, but more importantly, if any water/wul gets on the wall or bath surface before the sili is 'tooled' over it, the sili won't stick. And you need that perfect seal betwixt sili and surface.
  • If you no longer have the confidence to re apply the silicone then have a look at the various sealing tapes that are available. Youtube have several suitable videos.

    Its not the way professionals / experienced diyers would suggest but I can cofirm that it is an easy and acceptable looking alternative
  • I would reccomend starting again.
    I wouldnt use plumbers gold, im my experience i have found the dow corning 785 stuff much better, and its much more flexible, and i have found it to last 3 x longer before needing replacing again compared to the plumbers gold..

  • Ganga
    Ganga Posts: 4,253 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I thought it was just me who was terrible at applying silicon ,tried every method and cannot get a professional finish .
  • EssexExile
    EssexExile Posts: 6,400 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Ganga said:
    I thought it was just me who was terrible at applying silicon ,tried every method and cannot get a professional finish .
    It's an art, and I'm not an artist.
    Tall, dark & handsome. Well two out of three ain't bad.
  • Ganga
    Ganga Posts: 4,253 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Ganga said:
    I thought it was just me who was terrible at applying silicon ,tried every method and cannot get a professional finish .
    It's an art, and I'm not an artist.
    When it comes to silicon neither am i  :)
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