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Question about Glass for Bathroom Mirror
Comments
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Both acrylic and SS have the problem of being prone to image distortions, as they are thin and also move with temp.
Acrylic has the added disadvantage of not being scratch-resistant, and I suspect you will find it'll develop an insufferable scratch haze from even gentle cleaning.
I've polished light scratches out of acrylic using paint-cutting compounds, and whilst the finish appears 'mirror' at most angles, it only needs a light source to land on it to highlight the blanket of microscopic polishing scratches on the surface, and this rainbow haze, or polish whirls, or whatever it's called is quite noticeable. You'll see the same effect on most clean and polished car surfaces in the sun - whilst shiny and gleamy, you can't escape the fact that the surface is not 'perfect'.
This is not at all a problem with painted surfaces like cars, or acrylic items such as turntable lids - for all their intents and purposes, these will look absolutely 'spot on' in their shininess - but this 'imperfection' will quickly become insufferable in a mirror, especially one that folk use for getting ready. If a light source reflects in that mirror, you will see a micro-scratch halo around it, and it'll drive you barmy.
Acrylic is fine for feature/effects mirrors like for use in the garden, or adding depth or light to rooms - for glancing in on passing - but not for nose-to closeness.
SS is surely only used for ant-vandal surfaces?! For a domestic mirror, some means of keeping it perfectly flat will be required. No idea how to do this with SS, as it'll expand and contract at a quite different rate to any backing board. And, there is surely no way on this planet it can reflect as well as a real mirror?
So, what to use? Glass. If you cannot get laminated (or if that tiny layer is unacceptable to you), then just plain, and secure the hangers to the wall so it cannot fall off. I have a couple made up exactly as you intend, fitted with screw 'key' slots - ie the mirrors fit over two screw heads protruding out of the wall, and are pushed on and downwards on these to secure them - they sit completely flush, and they will not fall off. Nothing, other than a destructive amount of leverage, will remove them. They are 'safe'.
I would suggest that's the route to take.1 -
ThisIsWeird said:Both acrylic and SS have the problem of being prone to image distortions, as they are thin and also move with temp.
Acrylic has the added disadvantage of not being scratch-resistant, and I suspect you will find it'll develop an insufferable scratch haze from even gentle cleaning.
I've polished light scratches out of acrylic using paint-cutting compounds, and whilst the finish appears 'mirror' at most angles, it only needs a light source to land on it to highlight the blanket of microscopic polishing scratches on the surface, and this rainbow haze, or polish whirls, or whatever it's called is quite noticeable. You'll see the same effect on most clean and polished car surfaces in the sun - whilst shiny and gleamy, you can't escape the fact that the surface is not 'perfect'.
This is not at all a problem with painted surfaces like cars, or acrylic items such as turntable lids - for all their intents and purposes, these will look absolutely 'spot on' in their shininess - but this 'imperfection' will quickly become insufferable in a mirror, especially one that folk use for getting ready. If a light source reflects in that mirror, you will see a micro-scratch halo around it, and it'll drive you barmy.
Acrylic is fine for feature/effects mirrors like for use in the garden, or adding depth or light to rooms - for glancing in on passing - but not for nose-to closeness.
SS is surely only used for ant-vandal surfaces?! For a domestic mirror, some means of keeping it perfectly flat will be required. No idea how to do this with SS, as it'll expand and contract at a quite different rate to any backing board. And, there is surely no way on this planet it can reflect as well as a real mirror?
So, what to use? Glass. If you cannot get laminated (or if that tiny layer is unacceptable to you), then just plain, and secure the hangers to the wall so it cannot fall off. I have a couple made up exactly as you intend, fitted with screw 'key' slots - ie the mirrors fit over two screw heads protruding out of the wall, and are pushed on and downwards on these to secure them - they sit completely flush, and they will not fall off. Nothing, other than a destructive amount of leverage, will remove them. They are 'safe'.
I would suggest that's the route to take.ThisIsWeird thanks too for all that useful info. I'm not some sort of eco warrior
just someone trying to do their best but realising that sometimes I have to compromise too, and in that vein laminated glass sounds the best thing. Are there different sorts and, if so, what should I ask for to ensure it's shatterproof and otherwise suitable for a bathroom?0 -
@Cloth_of_Gold
Aluminum Foil Safety Backing to BS 6206 cat C may be what you are looking for.0 -
Sorry, I don't know such specifics about types of laminate glass. And I also don't know whether such glass being used in a mirror may cause double-images?Cloth_of_Gold said:ThisIsWeird said:Both acrylic and SS have the problem of being prone to image distortions, as they are thin and also move with temp.
Acrylic has the added disadvantage of not being scratch-resistant, and I suspect you will find it'll develop an insufferable scratch haze from even gentle cleaning.
I've polished light scratches out of acrylic using paint-cutting compounds, and whilst the finish appears 'mirror' at most angles, it only needs a light source to land on it to highlight the blanket of microscopic polishing scratches on the surface, and this rainbow haze, or polish whirls, or whatever it's called is quite noticeable. You'll see the same effect on most clean and polished car surfaces in the sun - whilst shiny and gleamy, you can't escape the fact that the surface is not 'perfect'.
This is not at all a problem with painted surfaces like cars, or acrylic items such as turntable lids - for all their intents and purposes, these will look absolutely 'spot on' in their shininess - but this 'imperfection' will quickly become insufferable in a mirror, especially one that folk use for getting ready. If a light source reflects in that mirror, you will see a micro-scratch halo around it, and it'll drive you barmy.
Acrylic is fine for feature/effects mirrors like for use in the garden, or adding depth or light to rooms - for glancing in on passing - but not for nose-to closeness.
SS is surely only used for ant-vandal surfaces?! For a domestic mirror, some means of keeping it perfectly flat will be required. No idea how to do this with SS, as it'll expand and contract at a quite different rate to any backing board. And, there is surely no way on this planet it can reflect as well as a real mirror?
So, what to use? Glass. If you cannot get laminated (or if that tiny layer is unacceptable to you), then just plain, and secure the hangers to the wall so it cannot fall off. I have a couple made up exactly as you intend, fitted with screw 'key' slots - ie the mirrors fit over two screw heads protruding out of the wall, and are pushed on and downwards on these to secure them - they sit completely flush, and they will not fall off. Nothing, other than a destructive amount of leverage, will remove them. They are 'safe'.
I would suggest that's the route to take.ThisIsWeird thanks too for all that useful info. I'm not some sort of eco warrior
just someone trying to do their best but realising that sometimes I have to compromise too, and in that vein laminated glass sounds the best thing. Are there different sorts and, if so, what should I ask for to ensure it's shatterproof and otherwise suitable for a bathroom?
May I ask what your actual concern is? If it's purely 'safety', then the answer is surely to ensure the mirror doesn't fall off the wall? Mine won't. And most just will not. They are 'safe' as long as they stay on the wall :-)1 -
Thank you - I'll look into that.Eldi_Dos said:@Cloth_of_Gold
Aluminum Foil Safety Backing to BS 6206 cat C may be what you are looking for.
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Yes, it's safety. I'm worried that if the hook it's on falls out or if it otherwise falls off the wall it might shatter and I would have pieces of broken glass, large and small, all over the bathroom floor. I'm totally inept when it comes to DIY so don't feel confident that I can fix it in way that will be completely safe. Perhaps you could come over and do it for me.ThisIsWeird said:
Sorry, I don't know such specifics about types of laminate glass. And I also don't know whether such glass being used in a mirror may cause double-images?Cloth_of_Gold said:ThisIsWeird said:Both acrylic and SS have the problem of being prone to image distortions, as they are thin and also move with temp.
Acrylic has the added disadvantage of not being scratch-resistant, and I suspect you will find it'll develop an insufferable scratch haze from even gentle cleaning.
I've polished light scratches out of acrylic using paint-cutting compounds, and whilst the finish appears 'mirror' at most angles, it only needs a light source to land on it to highlight the blanket of microscopic polishing scratches on the surface, and this rainbow haze, or polish whirls, or whatever it's called is quite noticeable. You'll see the same effect on most clean and polished car surfaces in the sun - whilst shiny and gleamy, you can't escape the fact that the surface is not 'perfect'.
This is not at all a problem with painted surfaces like cars, or acrylic items such as turntable lids - for all their intents and purposes, these will look absolutely 'spot on' in their shininess - but this 'imperfection' will quickly become insufferable in a mirror, especially one that folk use for getting ready. If a light source reflects in that mirror, you will see a micro-scratch halo around it, and it'll drive you barmy.
Acrylic is fine for feature/effects mirrors like for use in the garden, or adding depth or light to rooms - for glancing in on passing - but not for nose-to closeness.
SS is surely only used for ant-vandal surfaces?! For a domestic mirror, some means of keeping it perfectly flat will be required. No idea how to do this with SS, as it'll expand and contract at a quite different rate to any backing board. And, there is surely no way on this planet it can reflect as well as a real mirror?
So, what to use? Glass. If you cannot get laminated (or if that tiny layer is unacceptable to you), then just plain, and secure the hangers to the wall so it cannot fall off. I have a couple made up exactly as you intend, fitted with screw 'key' slots - ie the mirrors fit over two screw heads protruding out of the wall, and are pushed on and downwards on these to secure them - they sit completely flush, and they will not fall off. Nothing, other than a destructive amount of leverage, will remove them. They are 'safe'.
I would suggest that's the route to take.ThisIsWeird thanks too for all that useful info. I'm not some sort of eco warrior
just someone trying to do their best but realising that sometimes I have to compromise too, and in that vein laminated glass sounds the best thing. Are there different sorts and, if so, what should I ask for to ensure it's shatterproof and otherwise suitable for a bathroom?
May I ask what your actual concern is? If it's purely 'safety', then the answer is surely to ensure the mirror doesn't fall off the wall? Mine won't. And most just will not. They are 'safe' as long as they stay on the wall :-)
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Where d'ya live :-)Cloth_of_Gold said:
Yes, it's safety. I'm worried that if the hook it's on falls out or if it otherwise falls off the wall it might shatter and I would have pieces of broken glass, large and small, all over the bathroom floor. I'm totally inept when it comes to DIY so don't feel confident that I can fix it in way that will be completely safe. Perhaps you could come over and do it for me.ThisIsWeird said:
Sorry, I don't know such specifics about types of laminate glass. And I also don't know whether such glass being used in a mirror may cause double-images?Cloth_of_Gold said:ThisIsWeird said:Both acrylic and SS have the problem of being prone to image distortions, as they are thin and also move with temp.
Acrylic has the added disadvantage of not being scratch-resistant, and I suspect you will find it'll develop an insufferable scratch haze from even gentle cleaning.
I've polished light scratches out of acrylic using paint-cutting compounds, and whilst the finish appears 'mirror' at most angles, it only needs a light source to land on it to highlight the blanket of microscopic polishing scratches on the surface, and this rainbow haze, or polish whirls, or whatever it's called is quite noticeable. You'll see the same effect on most clean and polished car surfaces in the sun - whilst shiny and gleamy, you can't escape the fact that the surface is not 'perfect'.
This is not at all a problem with painted surfaces like cars, or acrylic items such as turntable lids - for all their intents and purposes, these will look absolutely 'spot on' in their shininess - but this 'imperfection' will quickly become insufferable in a mirror, especially one that folk use for getting ready. If a light source reflects in that mirror, you will see a micro-scratch halo around it, and it'll drive you barmy.
Acrylic is fine for feature/effects mirrors like for use in the garden, or adding depth or light to rooms - for glancing in on passing - but not for nose-to closeness.
SS is surely only used for ant-vandal surfaces?! For a domestic mirror, some means of keeping it perfectly flat will be required. No idea how to do this with SS, as it'll expand and contract at a quite different rate to any backing board. And, there is surely no way on this planet it can reflect as well as a real mirror?
So, what to use? Glass. If you cannot get laminated (or if that tiny layer is unacceptable to you), then just plain, and secure the hangers to the wall so it cannot fall off. I have a couple made up exactly as you intend, fitted with screw 'key' slots - ie the mirrors fit over two screw heads protruding out of the wall, and are pushed on and downwards on these to secure them - they sit completely flush, and they will not fall off. Nothing, other than a destructive amount of leverage, will remove them. They are 'safe'.
I would suggest that's the route to take.ThisIsWeird thanks too for all that useful info. I'm not some sort of eco warrior
just someone trying to do their best but realising that sometimes I have to compromise too, and in that vein laminated glass sounds the best thing. Are there different sorts and, if so, what should I ask for to ensure it's shatterproof and otherwise suitable for a bathroom?
May I ask what your actual concern is? If it's purely 'safety', then the answer is surely to ensure the mirror doesn't fall off the wall? Mine won't. And most just will not. They are 'safe' as long as they stay on the wall :-)
I'd suggest that the solution here would be to have it secured properly, and any local handyperson could do this for you.
Would this be a decorative mirror, or a functional one? Especially if the latter, it would look more correct in a bathroom if fitted flat against the wall, and not hanging.0 -
If this is in a bathroom, and you want a mirror could you get a mirrored cabinet (installed by a tradesperson) over the basin instead... Potentially lit as well
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@ThisIsWeird A functional one. Funnily enough, we now have someone coming over tomorrow or Friday to do a couple of small plumbing jobs so I might ask him about it. I won't have the mirror by then of course but he might do it once I've got it it as he can turn his hand to most things.@Emmia I already have a mirrored cabinet above the basin - this is in addition.1
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OK, if you have a plastic mirror it will likely scratch as already said, if you have polished metal you might feel as if in a public toilet!
As greyteam1959 says ask for a safety glazed mirror for your bathroom, at your glaziers, specifying your size. This will be a glass mirror with a laminate (backing?) that holds the glass shards together should it be broken.greyteam1959 said:Never mind picture framing shops.
Try your local independent glazier.
Once you have your safety mirror you might be better taking your mirror to the framing guy to get it framed, but maybe the glazier can help. Personally not keen on hanging a mirror in my bathroom, prefer something screwed to the wall, but each to their own!
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