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VW Key Fob not working. Cost of replacement is ridiculous.
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JBeaC said:@Ganga Yes I’m afraid I did do that, when the first fob died I changed the battery which didn’t make a difference, both the original and new batteries were tested there was nothing wrong with them. I’ve been using the other fob until now. Now neither work.1
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Last VAG group car I had, a Skoda Octavia with exactly the same key fob, I owned for 11 Years and the battery lasted way longer than 3.5 years.
Honestly I'm struggling to remember changing it at all but I guess I must have replaced it at least once in that time.
What I'm saying is that it's definitely NOT normal for them to run their batteries flat so quickly or go faulty, I'm sure it happens but I've personally never heard of it and I was on the periphery of the motor trade for most of my working life!.
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The issue I have seen is how battery replacement can be different for all makes of cars.Some say remove battery and replace within 20 seconds.Old Rover 218/418 said remove battery, hold down buttons to get rid of remaining charge in fob, then replace battery.Best thing with Rovers was the overide code.Car locked, use 4 turn code to unlock and turn of alarm etc.Key in door lock, 1213 code, turn left one time right 2 times etc.0
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21 year Skoda fabia keys (Same chassis and set-up as Polo) and remote function, plastic case a bit butchered, but still going strong . . . As long as the car battery has life left in it . . . that can be problematic in winter, with low frequency of use and high, at-rest static drain i.e. over 50ma (Due to various components shorting-out, including a defective cabin temperature flap motor). Never had any of these problems with Golf Mk 1 - mechanical locks only, no alarm, . . .bliss.
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If anyone else had this problem the key fobs had had it. I managed to find a locksmith who reprogrammed a new fob for half of what the vw dealers wanted so it’s worth asking around.0
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