Ceramic Tile Lifting

Ganga

You could always try a bolster chisel and a mash hammer( some times called a lump hammer ) but with safety glasses or a face mask ,hard work but it worked for me.

gt568

I've got an 850W hammer drill in the shed, do we think that might be powerful enough?

FreeBear

An SDS drill can switch from rotary action (for drilling) to straight hammer for chiselling. A standard hammer drill will only do rotary which you can not use for chiselling.

If your 850W drill is an SDS, it should have a lever to switch from rotary to pure hammer action, in which case, it may do the job.

stuart45

When looking at the power of the hammer action, it's the J value that counts.
The average SDS delivers around 2.7J, which is OK for some jobs, but ones like the Titan give you 8 or 10J, which make a big difference when knocking off a hard render. Hilti do one that gives about 15, and a Kango 35J.
It depends on how hard and well bonded to the wall the render is, and how long you want to spend on the job. Some of the old ones done on commercial jobs need a Kango to get them off in a reasonable time. 

gt568

Ok, so it has a hammer option for chisselling but it is only rated at 1.5J......

I'm wondering if I should hire a more powerful one then?  The floor is going to be screeded but I'm guessing I need to get it fairly flat before that.....

stuart45

I'd try it first and see how it goes. I guess when you say screeded you are talking about a self levelling compound, so you will need it reasonably flat, especially taking off any high spots.

MisterNick

gt568 said:

Ok, so it has a hammer option for chisselling but it is only rated at 1.5J......

I'm wondering if I should hire a more powerful one then?  The floor is going to be screeded but I'm guessing I need to get it fairly flat before that.....

Can't the screed go over the tiles?

gt568

MisterNick said:

gt568 said:

Ok, so it has a hammer option for chisselling but it is only rated at 1.5J......

I'm wondering if I should hire a more powerful one then?  The floor is going to be screeded but I'm guessing I need to get it fairly flat before that.....

Can't the screed go over the tiles?

Not really as the tiles are higher than the other 80% of the floor that is getting done.

MisterNick

gt568 said:

MisterNick said:

gt568 said:

Ok, so it has a hammer option for chisselling but it is only rated at 1.5J......

I'm wondering if I should hire a more powerful one then?  The floor is going to be screeded but I'm guessing I need to get it fairly flat before that.....

Can't the screed go over the tiles?

Not really as the tiles are higher than the other 80% of the floor that is getting done.

Ok, don't take this as an experts view as we just went along with what seemed sensible. 
We had karndean laid in the hall, kitchen, utility room, shower room and new extension, just before Christmas.
The flooring in the hall was parquet overlaid with carpet, the kitchen, utility room and shower room were sandstone slabs and extension was new and screeded by a company who only screeded floors.
The Karndean fitting company raised the level of the hall to the level of the kitchen. They then went over the entire area with latex screed so that it was all level, and then fitted the karndean. 

Not sure if that helps

gt568

Yeah I get what you are saying, the tiles are on the concrete slab.  When all the carpets come out 80% of the floor will be lower than the level of tiles, so to me anyway it makes sense to reomve the tiles rather than raise the floor throughout the rest of the downstairs....?