32A Commando socket instead of a dedicated EV charger?

macgyver

I have got a new EV with a big battery (abt 280 miles). I do not have a EV charger and am just using a Granny charger for a trickle charge. I am not bothered about the slow charge but the 13A plug gets really hot after 3 hours. So I am thinking of getting a 32A Commando socket installed (£220) and buying a Commando plug to T2 charging cable(£230) instead of getting a lost cost EV charger installed (£950 all in).
I am wondering if its the right thing or not. What are the disadvantages of a Commando socket?
Many thanks for looking

lohr500

I think that type of direct AC connection to the vehicle is what is known as Mode 1 charging. 
As far as I can gather from Googling this, it is not recommended as it offers no current or control protection. Some sites even suggest this form of charging is banned in many countries.

I guess if such a thing as a fused 16A or 32A commando plug exists, you could wire one of these fitted with a 13A fuse directly to the granny charger and then plug this into a 16A or 32A socket. That may avoid the plug overheating but it doesn't get around the fact that the recommendation is not to use granny charges on a long term basis.

When I had my Mitsubishi PHEV, I read somewhere that a quality 13A socket (MK was suggested) can help with the overheating issues as they have better contacts inside the socket. No idea if this is fact or fiction, but it might be worth a try.

Qyburn

lohr500 said:

I think that type of direct AC connection to the vehicle is what is known as Mode 1 charging. 
As far as I can gather from Googling this, it is not recommended as it offers no current or control protection. Some sites even suggest this form of charging is banned in many countries.

It looks like the basic 32A cables include simple charging controls 

https://evonestop.co.uk/products/ev-charging-cable-type-2-to-32a-commando-7-2-kw-5-metre-mode-2

Aside from the charger I believe there are specific earthing and RCD requirements for EV chargers. Even using a general purpose 32A socket you should really check that these are met, especially if your supply is PME.

lohr500

OK. Understood. I thought the OP was just looking to get a Commando plug wired directly to a T2 connector. The version in your link looks like it would fit the bill 👍

Jonboy_1984

I believe that depending on the car model and energy supplier you might need a smart charger in place to access EV tariffs (such as OVOs charge anytime tariff where you have to connect either the car or charger to your electricity account so it can try and charge at time of low demand).

Lorian

Do you have PME/TNC earthing? maybe check out PEN fault protection

born_again

Go for a proper wall box to charge car. It will pay for itself in the long run & add value to your home.

Access to the likes of Intelligent Octopus tariff is a boon. As not only do you get 23:30 to 05:30 on 7.5p kWh, but it will also kick in at other times when surplus supply. 
So since I got my EV (2 in house) we have charged 15 times & all have completed in day time @7.5p Which also has the bonus that other household usage was also @7.5p Which worked out at 30kWh for the statement 7 Sept to 1 Oct. This bill is one of the cheapest electric bills I have had in a long time £66.44 & included 220.3 kWh @ 7.5p & 123.3 @ 29.56p

My EV has a WLTP range of 280 ish, GOM currently @300, other only does around 120 miles to a charge, but hardly get used.

Gerry1

@born_again

'GOM currently @300'

2 many TLAs 4 me !😟

Reed_Richards

born_again said:

Go for a proper wall box to charge car. It will pay for itself in the long run & add value to your home.

A wall box might give you access to some fancy tariffs which mean that you can charge at 7.5p per kWh instead of 9.5 p/kWh.  So saving 2 p per kWh, a wall box costing £1000 would pay for itself after 50,000 kWh.  If your EV does 3 miles to the kWh then the wall box pays for itself after 150,000 miles of EV driving.  150,000 miles is a very long run!    

Lorian

If your house has one of the common earthing arrangements and a particular cabling fault occurs outside your property then the voltage between earth and the car can become 230v. The car is nicely insulated from the real earth by its tires....

wrf12345

Are eVs set up so you can connect an inverter to them and power the house on the 7.5kwh electricity (okay probably more like 10p when you take into account various inefficiencies), assuming you don't need all the power between charges for driving and have a separate AC circuit to connect it to?