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Car tyres, to buy branded or non-branded?

RogerPensionGuy
Posts: 741 Forumite

in Motoring
Hi.
I need to replace 4 tyres soon, I always previously put on expensive branded tyres.
A car enthusiast friend says I should just get a big mainstream supplier to fit essentially the cheapest and any real issues, they will replace them and although performance maybe less or maybe not, if noise, wet grip and fuel consumption are the same as branded, why not put the cheap ones on.
He goes on to say, the price is just so different he tends to replace his cheapest tyres when they approach 3mm tread and that is much safer reference wet grip than using expensive branded tyres to 1.6/2mm as he says standing water is when lots of us have issues because wet efficiency drops off so much as tyres get to that 1.6/2mm depth.
Also he says, less worn-out tyres gets less punctures generally.
I've just priced my card to have 4 new tyres fitted, to note I'm what they call a Sunday driver apparently, I tend to acceleration and brake slowly most of the time.
Anyways, 4 X cheap and cheerful can be fitted for a total £400 to £500 depending if I want maximum maximum wet grip and/or minimum noise, fuel consumption isn't a bother much as I normally get over 50MPG.
4 X branded is about £950 to £1200 with the same criteria used.
For information, car is standard run flats and I do find this reassuring albeit run flats can be more bumpy and noisy than non run flats.
Any views most welcome please?
I need to replace 4 tyres soon, I always previously put on expensive branded tyres.
A car enthusiast friend says I should just get a big mainstream supplier to fit essentially the cheapest and any real issues, they will replace them and although performance maybe less or maybe not, if noise, wet grip and fuel consumption are the same as branded, why not put the cheap ones on.
He goes on to say, the price is just so different he tends to replace his cheapest tyres when they approach 3mm tread and that is much safer reference wet grip than using expensive branded tyres to 1.6/2mm as he says standing water is when lots of us have issues because wet efficiency drops off so much as tyres get to that 1.6/2mm depth.
Also he says, less worn-out tyres gets less punctures generally.
I've just priced my card to have 4 new tyres fitted, to note I'm what they call a Sunday driver apparently, I tend to acceleration and brake slowly most of the time.
Anyways, 4 X cheap and cheerful can be fitted for a total £400 to £500 depending if I want maximum maximum wet grip and/or minimum noise, fuel consumption isn't a bother much as I normally get over 50MPG.
4 X branded is about £950 to £1200 with the same criteria used.
For information, car is standard run flats and I do find this reassuring albeit run flats can be more bumpy and noisy than non run flats.
Any views most welcome please?
1
Comments
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Drop the run flats & use something cheaper.
End of the day my take is that bit of rubber is all that keeps you on the road.Life in the slow lane2 -
Blimey, so many questions !First off, what do you mean by "branded"? Michelin, Dunlop, Pirelli are brands. So are Falken, Toyo, countless others.Next. It's an oft-quoted mantra, but true - four pieces of rubber a few inches square are all that's keeping you in contact with the road. What value do you put on your life?Any tyres sold in the UK must meet a minimum requirement, but their performance will vary. Some are better in the wet, some perform better in snow. What sort of driving do you do?I would say tread depth is a major factor. Even the most expensive tyres will be dodgy in the wet when they're approaching the legal minimum. Four new "cheap" tyres are better than 4 worn-out "premium" tyres.With all of the above in mind, it depends an awful lot on how you drive. You say you're a "Sunday"driver? Just go for something mid-range. It's different if you're an enthusiastic driver who pushes the car to its limits and wants maximum grip.RogerPensionGuy said:
A car enthusiast friend says I should just get a big mainstream supplier to fit essentially the cheapest and any real issues, they will replace themAnd I'd question the "they will replace them if there are any issues" comment. Sure, you can buy puncture insurance and such-like, but you can't just ask for a replacement if you don't like the tyres for some reason.2 -
I had to put 4 new tyres on my Volvo V60 but put the cheapest on I could find (Continental to Delinte) as I was getting rid of it 6 months later.
I didn't experience all the seasons or all the potential hazards but I can honestly say I couldn't tell any difference with the cheapies fitted in every day driving.1 -
Also he says, less worn-out tyres gets less punctures generally.My car was ten days old when I got a puncture, fortunately it was repairable1
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Run flats are just awful tyres for comfort, and if they are on a larger rim such as an 18-20" rim with low profile tyres are often the reason for wheels to crack.
Whilst you do not necessarily need to buy premium tyres, please don't buy ditch finders either. Whilst these cheap tyres may well feel ok for 99% of the time, they tend to have characteristics that when they do eventually give up their grip they do it suddenly, whereas a decent tyre would do it progressively and give the driver at least a chance to correct.
Something like a Hankook, Uniroyal, Avon or Falken. At worst some of the lower budget range like Kumho, Nexen etc.
This should save you a good amount without throwing safety out of the window.
One thing to consider though is that if you are running run flats that means your car is unlikely to have a space, make sure you at least have the 12v pump and a bottle of goo as a minimum and recovery in place. Personally I will always have a spare wheel regardless but that is just personal choice.
Whilst your friend may think himself a car enthusiast, he does not really understand his topic and is not best to be listened to.2 -
Your friend is right. The major tyre fitters aren’t going to supply dangerous tyres, it just isn’t worth the risk. I generally fit the cheapest Blackcircles tyres on my 107 and do like to throw it around a bit, but can’t say I notice any issues with performance. As your friend says, better to buy cheap and change early than run expensive tyres to the legal limit.1
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Below is some information on stopping distances in the wet.
Also worth noting tyres are well regulated and show performance levels, obviously with a car on the ramp for one hour, much more profitable using £250 tyres than £90 per corner.
Skoda and VW is a great example of why some of us are happier to pay more for essentially the same item.
Reference punctures, apparently a 14mm sharpe object like a stone or nail is less likely to result in a puncture with a brand new 8mm tread compared to a 1.6mm tread I'm advised.
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https://www.firststop.co.uk/why-tyres-are-so-important
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RogerPensionGuy said:He goes on to say, the price is just so different he tends to replace his cheapest tyres when they approach 3mm tread and that is much safer reference wet grip than using expensive branded tyres to 1.6/2mm as he says standing water is when lots of us have issues because wet efficiency drops off so much as tyres get to that 1.6/2mm depth.This guy does and he has opinions.
Can a New Budget Tire Beat a Worn Premium Tire in the Dry, Wet and Snow?*
*Spoiler: no, it can't, not consistently.Full disclosure: I have this evening (before reading this thread!) paid out £350 to put four new Michelin Crossclimate 2s on Mrs QrizB's car.N. Hampshire, he/him. Octopus Intelligent Go elec & Tracker gas / Vodafone BB / iD mobile. Ripple Kirk Hill member.
2.72kWp PV facing SSW installed Jan 2012. 11 x 247w panels, 3.6kw inverter. 33MWh generated, long-term average 2.6 Os.Not exactly back from my break, but dipping in and out of the forum.Ofgem cap table, Ofgem cap explainer. Economy 7 cap explainer. Gas vs E7 vs peak elec heating costs, Best kettle!3 -
QrizB said:RogerPensionGuy said:He goes on to say, the price is just so different he tends to replace his cheapest tyres when they approach 3mm tread and that is much safer reference wet grip than using expensive branded tyres to 1.6/2mm as he says standing water is when lots of us have issues because wet efficiency drops off so much as tyres get to that 1.6/2mm depth.This guy does and he has opinions.
Can a New Budget Tire Beat a Worn Premium Tire in the Dry, Wet and Snow?*
*Spoiler: yes, it can.Full disclosure: I have this evening (before reading this thread!) paid out £350 to put four new Michelin Crossclimate 2s on Mrs QrizB's car.
Think he said he tried the cheaper new tyres on fresh powder snow before the old expensive and commented they(old expensive) slippy when off the the compact stuff.
He also talks about the cheaper tyres get you to the corner quicker in the wet(1mm water) due better control I think he means, but then a problem, he also states in many conditions newer tyres feel less sharp due to physics of rubber depth.
He also talks about a thousand % better, so I take take as at least 10 times better.
I'll obviously draw my own conclusions from his interesting video, but very interesting if I'm driving around a track covered in snow and I definitely listen out for the noises achieved in snow.1 -
RogerPensionGuy said:
He also talks about a thousand % better, so I take take as at least 10 times better.
I'll obviously draw my own conclusions from his interesting video, but very interesting if I'm driving around a track covered in snow and I definitely listen out for the noises achieved in snow.Not sure if the video maker gets any kickbacks, but I certainly would not trust a guy on YouTube.The Tomket Sport and Michelin CrossClimate 2 have exactly the same rating, despite the difference in price, £45 vs £78(C-petrol, B-rain).
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