1930's maisonette, lessons learned but advice needed for loft!

Section62

mi-key said:

Section62 said:

mi-key said:

The work on the structure can easily be done from the inside a lot cheaper. A strip and re tile can easily cost £10,000 so unless it really needs doing due to leaking or major structural problems, then its pointless for the OP to spend that money if replacing some internal purloins and getting the velux windows supported more can be done.

As I've said, it will probably be a fine judgement either way, depending on what else is found to be wrong and what the builder feels is the more efficient way of working.  I've raised the point so the OP can add that into the other things they need to plan and budget for. This will hopefully help the OP avoid the worst case of getting a quote for the internal work only, then having the builder drop the cost bombshell of needing the roof done as well after the work has started.

What would be pointless is spending the whole budget on making the room look good, then discovering the roof leaks or the structural issues haven't been resolved properly.

mi-key said:

Not to mention the upheaval of having a roof replaced

As the majority of the additional work would be external, the "upheaval" should not be that much.  If the builder uses the opportunity while having the roof (at least partially) stripped to remove the debris in the loft and bring in fresh materials, then it may be less of an inconvenience than having the builders carrying everything in and out via the stairs.

Again, in case there is any misunderstanding here, I'm not saying the roof has to be replaced - only that having the roof stripped and redone may be a better option the OP might wish to discuss with the structural engineer and (in due course) the builders.

ThisIsWeird

82, do you need to use this room before you have the funds to convert it properly? If so, what for? If not, then surely best to just shut the door to it as suggested earlier?

Have you had the purlin reinstated?

These 'gas' in the tiles - are these just narrow slits of daylight visible at a low angle, or are they actual gaps - broken or missing tiles - that allow rain through? If the former, that's normal and not an issue (extra ventilation!). The latter could be an issue.

Of course, it is possible to insulate that room to a good degree if that's what you want, and if you secure the sheets with relatively few fixings, then most of the material can be reused when it's done properly. But, if you do this, then you must allow a free flow of air around these rafters, so you shouldn't just attach them straight on - if you look at the roof apex, there are horizontal joists that would prevent the flow from passing up one side and down the other as you'd require. So you'd need to either add extra battens to the rafters to hold the sheets out another couple of inches, or perhaps just insulate up close to the roof apex, and then add a small flat ceiling to join both sides.

But, really, is this worth it? Priority, surely - get the overall structure checked out and fixed?

FreeBear

Section62 said:

the82message said:

Section62 said:

...I held off from structural engineer chat, as I appreciate the next step is party wall agreement etc...

Advice from a SE should come before the PWA... you need to know what work you have to do before you can agree anything with the neighbour.

Also, because of the issue of the removed purlin and sagging roof, you need this looked at as a matter of some urgency - and preferably before the winter when issues such as wind and snow loading may make things worse than they are already.

Quite likely a PWA is not needed. But certainly get the opinion of a structural engineer before spending another penny on the conversion. Aside from issues surrounding the missing purlin and velux window, you need assurances that the joists are big enough. I suspect that you have 50x100 (maybe as small as 50x75) joists which will not be anywhere big enough.

Section62

FreeBear said:

Section62 said:

the82message said:

Section62 said:

...I held off from structural engineer chat, as I appreciate the next step is party wall agreement etc...

Advice from a SE should come before the PWA... you need to know what work you have to do before you can agree anything with the neighbour.

Also, because of the issue of the removed purlin and sagging roof, you need this looked at as a matter of some urgency - and preferably before the winter when issues such as wind and snow loading may make things worse than they are already.

Quite likely a PWA is not needed. But certainly get the opinion of a structural engineer before spending another penny on the conversion. Aside from issues surrounding the missing purlin and velux window, you need assurances that the joists are big enough. I suspect that you have 50x100 (maybe as small as 50x75) joists which will not be anywhere big enough.

Yes, an SE's opinion is vital before doing anything else... in the picture looking towards the hip end it appears the piece of chipboard on the far-right of the picture is sat on firrings cut to accommodate a sag in the joists (reasonably sure this isn't a camera trick).

The one thing which is clear is the original roof structure has been brutalised in the past and needs a fair amount of work under the guidance of a SE to put it back in order. (I'd also be concerned about the lack of diagonal strutting/bracing.)

This is also a potential opportunity to make sure the floorspace/storage in the habitable space is maximised.

The other stuff (like insulation) is premature until the structure is sound and the building properly weatertight.

the82message

FreeBear said:

Section62 said:

the82message said:

Section62 said:

...I held off from structural engineer chat, as I appreciate the next step is party wall agreement etc...

Advice from a SE should come before the PWA... you need to know what work you have to do before you can agree anything with the neighbour.

Also, because of the issue of the removed purlin and sagging roof, you need this looked at as a matter of some urgency - and preferably before the winter when issues such as wind and snow loading may make things worse than they are already.

Quite likely a PWA is not needed. But certainly get the opinion of a structural engineer before spending another penny on the conversion. Aside from issues surrounding the missing purlin and velux window, you need assurances that the joists are big enough. I suspect that you have 50x100 (maybe as small as 50x75) joists which will not be anywhere big enough.

Thank you, I definitely intend to get a SE, but curious why you think PWA not likely needed?

FreeBear

If you are no knocking holes in the dividing wall, I don't see a PWA being required. But do check with your architect to confirm.

the82message

FreeBear said:

If you are no knocking holes in the dividing wall, I don't see a PWA being required. But do check with your architect to confirm.

Ahhh gotcha, thank you!