Which way European plug with UK Adaptor

grumbler

It's just common sense and not about a finger going IN. It makes no sense to mark them in EU where the plugs are symmetrical. With a UK plug it does make sense.

When screwing a bulb into a lampholder (or extracting a bulb) it is possible to touch the threaded part - and this once happened to me, although it was a big ES bulb, possibly even E39/40 - I don't remember.

Ben1989

grumbler said:

Ben1989 said:

I have a multimeter if that helps. I’d appreciate some advice how to test though. 

The plug pin connected to the thread of the lampholder is better to connect to   L   N (not fused) terminal of the UK plug.
Use 'continuity check' mode of the tester.

Sorry Grumbler, not sure what you mean by plug pin connected to thread?

grumbler

Ben1989 said:

grumbler said:

Ben1989 said:

I have a multimeter if that helps. I’d appreciate some advice how to test though. 

The plug pin connected to the thread of the lampholder is better to connect to   L   N (not fused) terminal of the UK plug.
Use 'continuity check' mode of the tester.

Sorry Grumbler, not sure what you mean by plug pin connected to thread?

Sorry, I just realised that the threaded part of the lampholder isn't necessarily metal. In this case there are two contacts at the bottom of the lampholder - one in the middle and another on the side, that contacts thread of the bulb.

Ben1989

Thanks. But how will I know which prong relates to that part of the thread?

grumbler

Ben1989 said:

Thanks. But how will I know which prong relates to that part of the thread?

With the tester in continuity testing mode. Connect one probe to this contact and then check both pins with another probe. Only one pin will give a positive result.

Rodders53

grumbler said:

It's just common sense and not about a finger going IN. It makes no sense to mark them in EU where the plugs are symmetrical. With a UK plug it does make sense.

When screwing a bulb into a lampholder (or extracting a bulb) it is possible to touch the threaded part - and this once happened to me, although it was a big ES bulb, possibly even E39/40 - I don't remember.

I'll repeat no such lamp holders have marking in the UK.  No requirement.  Why not if you think it important???

Changing a lamp in a luminaire should only be done with the mains power off.  Simple to do if on a plug-socket arrangement like this.

Such advice is typically on the instruction leaflet of luminaires and sometimes on the paperwork/packaging of the lamp.

If in doubt at the consumer unit (e.g. for pendant fittings).

Then it doesn't matter in the slightest.

GDB2222

I don’t know why people are getting so worked up about this? Clearly, it’s preferable to wire it up in the safest way, and the OP has the tools to do so. And, of course, unplugging the lamp when changing the bulb is also a good idea.  Having said that, very few people die from electrical shock in the home, and the risk of death is very low.

 I must be a wimp, though, because I don’t like getting shocked, and I take sensible precautions to avoid it. 

outtatune

I'm wondering if there's a greater chance of the OP electrocuting themselves by accidentally leaving the power on when doing the continuity testing with the multimeter than there is of electrocuting themselves by accidentally leaving the power on when changing the bulb and touching the lampholder contact.

Section62

outtatune said:

I'm wondering if there's a greater chance of the OP electrocuting themselves by accidentally leaving the power on when doing the continuity testing with the multimeter than there is of electrocuting themselves by accidentally leaving the power on when changing the bulb and touching the lampholder contact.

This is why I sometimes find the advice offered on this forum to be concerning.  If someone (generally, not the OP) isn't competent to carry out a continuity test (for example) without significant risk of getting an electric shock then they aren't competent to carry out electrical work and should leave it to a professional.

There is also some confusion within the various bits of advice being offered - the key reason why an ES fitting should be wired with centre 'live' (brown wire) isn't due to the risk of people sticking their finger in the hole, but rather that the the whole metal cap of an ES lamp will be electrically live when the power is on (unlike a BC fitting where the cap is floating or earthed).  Unless the ES fitting is provided with sufficient shrouding to prevent contact with the potentially live cap of the lamp then there is a risk of someone getting a shock from coming into contact with a live part. A fitting to BSEN60238 should prevent this risk by design.

I don't know as fact, but I'd guess one possible reason why the 'European' approach of having a non-polarised plug hasn't caused multitudes of deaths in 'Europe' could be that their ES lamp fittings (being in common use) have met the requirements equivalent to BSEN60238, whereas in the UK ES fittings/lamps previously tended to be found in more specialist situations where fittings with lower levels of protection were permitted because they would normally only be accessed by a competent person, or in things like enclosed spotlamps where it is physically impossible to touch the cap end of the lamp when it is in electrical contact with the lampholder.

Spinybif

It is impossible to carry out a continuity test when plugged in, as the probe need contact with the pin.  Therefore advising even a newbie to do so carries no risk.