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What type of shower can I have?
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sho_me_da_money said:Hey Buff, thanks for the recommendations.
Could I install either of the following in my current configuration:
https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-showerpipe-240-thermostatic-mixer-shower-27129000-18174-1271306
or this
https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-showerpipe-240-thermostatic-mixer-shower-27129000-18174-1271306
with this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marflow-Shower-PL4-Fixing-Guarantee/dp/B0074HT4PE
Or must it be Triton or Mira?0 -
plumb1_2 said:sho_me_da_money said:Hey Buff, thanks for the recommendations.
Could I install either of the following in my current configuration:
https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-showerpipe-240-thermostatic-mixer-shower-27129000-18174-1271306
or this
https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-showerpipe-240-thermostatic-mixer-shower-27129000-18174-1271306
with this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marflow-Shower-PL4-Fixing-Guarantee/dp/B0074HT4PE
Or must it be Triton or Mira?
So as long as my water pressure/flow is good and the I buy the fixing pack, I can install a Hansgrohe to my bare exposed copper tails?
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Looking at the installation instructions for the Hansgrohes, they expect a threaded collar/bush to be present in the walls, to which their cranked collars are screwed. It would appear that the fixing kit linked to by you and others will serve the same purpose - it will connect to the copper pipes, be screwed securely to the shower wall, and replace the cranked connectors?The spacing would appear to have to be spot-on, tho'. I wonder if the use of 'cranked' fittings for the Hansgrohe is to allow such adjustment?Assuming the exposed threaded collar is the same size.0
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sho_me_da_money said:plumb1_2 said:sho_me_da_money said:Hey Buff, thanks for the recommendations.
Could I install either of the following in my current configuration:
https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-showerpipe-240-thermostatic-mixer-shower-27129000-18174-1271306
or this
https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-showerpipe-240-thermostatic-mixer-shower-27129000-18174-1271306
with this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marflow-Shower-PL4-Fixing-Guarantee/dp/B0074HT4PE
Or must it be Triton or Mira?
So as long as my water pressure/flow is good and the I buy the fixing pack, I can install a Hansgrohe to my bare exposed copper tails?
What have the more reasonably priced showers not got that is attracting you to the Hansgrohe ?0 -
Looking at the pics I think there appears to be a solder ring joint on the left hand pipe, would this interfere (as is) with attaching a shower bar. Seems a bit odd to put a joint there, you'd normally expect plain pipe all the way back to the wall.0
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Nearlyold said:Looking at the pics I think there appears to be a solder ring joint on the left hand pipe, would this interfere (as is) with attaching a shower bar. Seems a bit odd to put a joint there, you'd normally expect plain pipe all the way back to the wall.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
There's a few things I am unsure of and wondered if you can support please.
- I was told the left pipe and right pipes are the wrong way. I think he said in my configuration left is cold and right is hot and usually industry standard is the other way around. Will this present a problem when installing a new shower bar such as the Hansgrohe + fixing kit?
- The shower tray is installed on a riser kit with legs and they've placed the drain hole/waste trap to the rear of the tray. Is this a problem as usually they are installed directly under the shower head or to the center of the tray?
Let me show you:
Red Arrow - This will be a shower screen with a flap. Screen 700mm and flap 300mm. Doesn't go all the way across the room with a space. This will leave an opening of 400mm to walk into with the flap fully extended or 700mm if the flap is folded in - https://www.showerstoyou.co.uk/merlyn-8-series-1000mm-showerwall-with-curved-hinged-panel/
Yellow Gap - They were going to build a section so I could have a niche in the wall next to where the shower heads was going to be mounted
As you can see trap is to the rear of the tray and hot pipe is right (and not left). Any issues with this?
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The trap is presumably fitted closest to the exiting waste pipe out that wall - that's good, and should present no pooling issues (the tray has a built-in slope).The pipes being reversed is, I'm afraid, a problem, as thermostatic showers - which is a must - will simply not work correctly like this (if it's the wrong way around). That applies to all makes, unless they have the rare option for being reversed internally?Where can he get to these pipes to reverse them?!0
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ThisIsWeird said:The trap is presumably fitted closest to the exiting waste pipe out that wall - that's good, and should present no pooling issues (the tray has a built-in slope).The pipes being reversed is, I'm afraid, a problem, as thermostatic showers - which is a must - will simply not work correctly like this (if it's the wrong way around). That applies to all makes, unless they have the rare option for being reversed internally?Where can he get to these pipes to reverse them?!
Thank God you told me about this now. I defo don't want a manual mixer shower, which im told are good for low pressure homes and would work in this wrong-sided configuration. On the topic of pressure, I have no water feed upstairs with the bathroom renovations going on. How can I check if my bar pressure is good to support a thermostatic shower, which requires a min of 1 bar. I could probably do the 6 second test from the kitchen downstairs where the combi boiler is but not sure how accurate that is in relation to the flow upstairs. That said, im assured that with a combi boiler, I should be alright with a thermostatic min 1 bar unit. Fair enough to assume that?
So i am not sure where he can get to regarding the reversal of the pipes. He has installed the shower tray into place with the riser legs. I think he could have avoided the riser as the sub floor was actually floorboards, which he installed hardiebacker board on the top of since its getting tiled. He could have channelled the waste pipes under the floorboard for a better aesthetic look but he explained from a future maintenance point of view, it would be better to have the risers for easy access. I agreed at the cost of a higher step. Not sure how I feel about this but oh well.
In terms of reversing the pipes. I guess, I am not too far gone where this modification can occur now right? I mean worst case scenario - remove the shower tray and re-install it after installing the pipes the right way, which I assume means unscrewing the hardie backer board and lifting the planks underneath?0 -
I can see what they've done here. I'm assuming originally the hot pipe came out of the hole to the left of the cold pipe. For some reason they've needed to replace this so they've taken that out and put it to the left instead. I expect that's why there's a coupler on the cold feed too as it's the original connection, someone deemed it too short and they've soldered on an extension.
Either way it's lazy and it needs correcting. Before you carry on any further get the pipework sorted. Assuming you can see the pipes under the shower tray it's likely the easiest solution is to remove the tray and switch the pipes over somewhere so the existing cold feed is now hot and vice versa.
Finally he's right about the waste access, it's certainly easier if it's on feet. However you're the customer and if you want it flat on the floor then he should be prepared to do that. However you do need to consider what you'll do for future access.1
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