Fitting Architrave Issue

ThisIsWeird

FFHillbilly said:

ThisIsWeird said:

FFHillbilly said:

I see joiners using 3 methods to fix this problem all the time.

option 1, plane the back of the architrave to suit (best result but takes a lot more time and you need a planer and skill)
option 2, hack a bit of the plaster off so the architrave sits flat (messy but easy to do and cheap)
option 3, fit it and fill the gap with caulk (yee-haw)

No2 - an archi partially buried in skim, so common when a room has been reskimmed with the archi left in place - is simply one of my personal aesthetic pet hates. Yuck :-)

Just to clear things up No2 isnt going to have the architrave buried in the plaster, by just removing enough plaster from the corner the architrave will sit a lot flatter and it greatly reduces the gap to be caulked. you don't remove so much plaster, all the mess is covered by the architrave

Don't quite follow this - surely the archi will be partially buried in the wall skim layer?

FFHillbilly

ThisIsWeird said:

FFHillbilly said:

ThisIsWeird said:

FFHillbilly said:

I see joiners using 3 methods to fix this problem all the time.

option 1, plane the back of the architrave to suit (best result but takes a lot more time and you need a planer and skill)
option 2, hack a bit of the plaster off so the architrave sits flat (messy but easy to do and cheap)
option 3, fit it and fill the gap with caulk (yee-haw)

No2 - an archi partially buried in skim, so common when a room has been reskimmed with the archi left in place - is simply one of my personal aesthetic pet hates. Yuck :-)

Just to clear things up No2 isnt going to have the architrave buried in the plaster, by just removing enough plaster from the corner the architrave will sit a lot flatter and it greatly reduces the gap to be caulked. you don't remove so much plaster, all the mess is covered by the architrave

Don't quite follow this - surely the archi will be partially buried in the wall skim layer?

Picture attached

ThisIsWeird

FFHillbilly said:

ThisIsWeird said:

FFHillbilly said:

ThisIsWeird said:

FFHillbilly said:

I see joiners using 3 methods to fix this problem all the time.

option 1, plane the back of the architrave to suit (best result but takes a lot more time and you need a planer and skill)
option 2, hack a bit of the plaster off so the architrave sits flat (messy but easy to do and cheap)
option 3, fit it and fill the gap with caulk (yee-haw)

No2 - an archi partially buried in skim, so common when a room has been reskimmed with the archi left in place - is simply one of my personal aesthetic pet hates. Yuck :-)

Just to clear things up No2 isnt going to have the architrave buried in the plaster, by just removing enough plaster from the corner the architrave will sit a lot flatter and it greatly reduces the gap to be caulked. you don't remove so much plaster, all the mess is covered by the architrave

Don't quite follow this - surely the archi will be partially buried in the wall skim layer?

Picture attached

Ah, I see. So mark a line where the back of the archi will land on the wall, and rasp the skim away between there and the door lining? That should certainly help, tho' I suspect it'll depend on the height difference that needs bridging. If the archi slopes too much, it'll affect the mitres. But a nice idea in some scenarios.

paperclap

Thanks one and all.

I’ve had an idea. It may be stupid, it may be genius.

Rather than getting the standard 18mm depth architrave… I could get 25mm depth architrave. Then using either my router or electric planer, rebate the back to suit the wall and lining.

So when all done, the portion sitting on the wall will be 18mm, and the portion sitting on the lining could be anywhere between 19mm-23mm, for example.

One issue. MDF is hard on blades, right? Don’t really fancy screwing up my expensive planer!

grumbler

I think it's the particle board that is hard for blades, not MDF. And the idea was discussed here, wasn't it? In general, and with some scepticism though, - not using a thicker architrave.

ThisIsWeird said:  other options - ..., or even...gasp - routing the archi to suit, are all too long-winded.

To me too a router seems to be a more suitable tool for this than a plane.

ThisIsWeird

paperclap said:

Thanks one and all.

I’ve had an idea. It may be stupid, it may be genius.

Rather than getting the standard 18mm depth architrave… I could get 25mm depth architrave. Then using either my router or electric planer, rebate the back to suit the wall and lining.

So when all done, the portion sitting on the wall will be 18mm, and the portion sitting on the lining could be anywhere between 19mm-23mm, for example.

One issue. MDF is hard on blades, right? Don’t really fancy screwing up my expensive planer!

Chenius :-)

I know routing/rebating has been mentioned, but hadn't realised it had been considered using thicker archi, rebated down.

A lot of work, tho', but if you have the tools, then go for it. I'd personally go for the easier method of bench-sawing down an MDF strip - say 15mm X 6mm (or whatever thickness is required) - and gluing it to the inner/back of the 18mm archi. A quick run with a plane, if needed, or a bit of sanding will get it blended.

paperclap

Ah, may very well be particle board that's hard on blades!

It is indeed a lot of work.

Gluing stripwood to the back of the 18mm architrave is also an option, for sure. But, does also mean clamping successfully along a 2.1m length of architrave, and trying to hide the join! Would mean filling that entire length, then sanding down. Might actually be more expensive to do it that way too, as stripwood is surprisingly expensive (when you need to do a whole house worth of doors!).

grumbler

ThisIsWeird said:

paperclap said:

Thanks one and all.

I’ve had an idea. It may be stupid, it may be genius.

Rather than getting the standard 18mm depth architrave… I could get 25mm depth architrave. Then using either my router or electric planer, rebate the back to suit the wall and lining.

So when all done, the portion sitting on the wall will be 18mm, and the portion sitting on the lining could be anywhere between 19mm-23mm, for example.

One issue. MDF is hard on blades, right? Don’t really fancy screwing up my expensive planer!

 I'd personally go for the easier method of bench-sawing down an MDF strip - say 15mm X 6mm (or whatever thickness is required) - and gluing it to the inner/back of the 18mm archi. A quick run with a plane, if needed, or a bit of sanding will get it blended.

I thought about this.

The problem is that MDF is very bad for sanding. This may work if after first sanding you treat if with thick PVA, let it dry and then sand again. Or maybe use paint instead of PVA.

molerat

paperclap said:

......... as stripwood is surprisingly expensive (when you need to do a whole house worth of doors!).

Not if you have a table saw

paperclap

I don’t have the luxury of a table saw. But, I do have a circular saw. When I was trimming down the doors with it, I was quite (pleasantly) surprised just how small a slither you could cut off. So might be worth buying a length of wood the same depth as the lining and cutting my own stripwood!