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Tool for cutting 9mm UPVC Fascia?

Anoneemoose
Posts: 2,270 Forumite



Hi,
As an inexperienced DIYer, I bought some UPVC fascia board to use as windowsill and shelf covers in a small pantry and I need to cut it to size and shape.
As an inexperienced DIYer, I bought some UPVC fascia board to use as windowsill and shelf covers in a small pantry and I need to cut it to size and shape.
Is there an electric cutting tool that would do it without too much effort for me? I ask because I’m (typically🙄) having a flare of a pain condition and my arms aren’t very useful at the minute. I had planned on using a suitable hand saw but I’d have to wait until I’m not in pain. If that would give better results then I’ll wait and do that but if there is something that could be recommended (if that’s allowed), I’d be most grateful.
I don’t want to spend a massive amount on something either but appreciate you often get what you pay for so I’m open to suggestions. We don’t do a massive amount of DIY in this house.
Thanks in advance. 😊
Thanks in advance. 😊
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Comments
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I bought a mini circular saw, like this: https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-hs301dz-10-8v-12v-max-cxt-slide-85mm-circular-saw-body-only
I've been using it for lots of odd jobs. I like that it isn't too heavy or as scary as a full circular saw. It's done me well for some odd jobs.1 -
Assuming they will all be straight cuts, then you can do this with most PVC boards using a 'Stanley' or other craft knife. But you MUST be super-careful so as not to cut yourself.
Essentially, you score a line with the knife through the 'good' side, using a straight edge to guide the blade, and keeping your other hand's fingertips nicely away. The top edge of a hand saw can work as a guide as it's straight and also wide enough to hold away from the blade use, but you need to watch for the saw teeth not marking the smooth surface. A steel rule will also do (as will any solid, straight, strip), but it needs holding securely and safely.
If you place a strip of damp cloth down first, that MIGHT both protect the surface and help keep the flattened saw from slipping.
So, gently score the line in the marked place. Once you cut through the shiny skin, the core will be softer, so you can go over it a few times until you are a good few mm in. At this point, it's your call; you should be able to snap the board backwards, ideally by positioning it over an edge like a table, or you can keep on slicing through. For the latter, trying placing a thin strip of something - even material - under where the cut is taking place, as this will fractionally lift that point and ease the tightness of the cut on the knife blade.
Once you've gone a couple of mm in, you 'should' be able to continue with more cuts 'freehand', but set yourself up so you are pulling the blade in a nice clean straight line with no possible sideways pressure, and don't try and cut TOO deep each time. It should be a smoothish steady process, and not stuttery.
Most likely you'll want to just snap the sheet, and that's fine - you can tidy up the cut/snapped edges afterwards if needed, either with the knife (careful!), or with a sanding block (or even a file, scraper, rasp, spokeshave...)
The good thing about using a knife for this is that the top visible surface should have a really clean accurate cut showing. But, you just need to take care. I'd suggest a trial on a scrap end.
And don't come back on her typing about having cut your finger tips off, y'hear?2 -
Anoneemoose said:Is there an electric cutting tool that would do it without too much effort for me? I ask because I’m (typically🙄) having a flare of a pain condition and my arms aren’t very useful at the minute. I had planned on using a suitable hand saw but I’d have to wait until I’m not in pain. If that would give better results then I’ll wait and do that but if there is something that could be recommended (if that’s allowed), I’d be most grateful.I think you'd need to factor in how your condition might affect your ability to use power tools - as whilst they make the actual cutting work easier, handling the tool itself needs some amount of strength (particularly to do the job safely).In that regard battery powered tools tend to be heavier than corded equivalents, and if you are buying a tool you may only use once, or perhaps only very rarely, then generally corded makes more sense than battery.In other words, and without knowing exactly how your condition affects you, I'd suggest if you think you'd have problems using a hand saw to cut uPVC then I'm not sure there's any power tool alternative that could be guaranteed not to be worse. And/or be potentially unsafe to use when your arms aren't up to it.Bendy's suggestion of a knife - taking on board the safety warnings - is possibly the best way to go, unless you can wait, or perhaps handsaw a small amount at a time over a period of days?1
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Thank you to all of you.Bendy, that’s a great explanation and makes sense. Thanks so much for taking the time. I have some of that non slip mat stuff I could use to stop slipping, if suitable. And I have metal and quilting rulers so plenty of things to keep me in a straight line! The cuts would be straight, yes!Section62, you raise a good point! I generally have normal strength and stability but the pain would increase with effort so I’ll definitely bear it all in mind. I might go with Bendy’s idea but doing it bit by bit, as you suggest. Although I’m itching to get it finished as my downstairs is upside down! You wouldn’t think a little old pantry could hold so much stuff.😁 But, I’d rather do it properly over time.2
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If you're cutting plastics and having trouble marking out, masking tape makes it easy to mark with a pencil. If using a saw, cut so you can just see the line.3
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If you are thinking of making an investment in a tool then perhaps consider a mitre saw. Evolution make a range of budget but decent saws and include a multi-material blade that will cut your plastics as well as wood and metal for future jobs. Less stress and pressure on your arms than a handheld saw, jigsaw or circular sawSean1
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Anoneemoose said:Section62, you raise a good point! I generally have normal strength and stability but the pain would increase with effort so I’ll definitely bear it all in mind.Yes, it is a difficult position to be in. If you were looking at a tool to use on a very regular basis then I'd suggest a bench mounted bandsaw or scroll saw would be ideal - as with these the only thing you really have to do is to guide the workpiece and lightly support it where it overhangs the table by a long way. But buying a bandsaw isn't really an option for a one-off job. (also, most of my plastics sheet cutting is done on a bandsaw because I find it the easiest and most stable method)The overriding thing has to be safety - and if you can't be sure you could control a power tool if it kicks, skips, or jams then it is best to avoid using them in those circumstances.1
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seanfos said:If you are thinking of making an investment in a tool then perhaps consider a mitre saw. Evolution make a range of budget but decent saws and include a multi-material blade that will cut your plastics as well as wood and metal for future jobs. Less stress and pressure on your arms than a handheld saw, jigsaw or circular saw.Ok for cross-cuts, but no good for ripping. And unfortunately you need a fair amount of arm strength to overcome the return spring... I'd suggest probably more than is needed for using a hand saw in plastic.Plus it weighs in at 11.2kg, which could be an issue.0
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If you're not really going to use the tool after this, I would be inclined to buy a fine tooth handsaw and complete the task as and when. 9mm uPVC will offer very little resistance.
If you choose to use a bladed item, craft knife, Stanley knife etc, please wear gloves for your own protection (I'm a firm believer in safety first)0
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