Washing machine costs

DullGreyGuy

BooJewels said:

@DullGreyGuy the OP might not know the answer and might not be able to access it either as she's blind and the model number is likely to be printed onto part of the front of the machine and the manual details, even on-line, are probably presented in a graphic format.

Whilst unaware of the OPs situation, may sighted people dont know these facts either and most non-sighted people I've met know some sighted people who can help with confirming such matters. 

Ultimately it comes down to model, and in somecases if its been plumbed into cold only or hot too. As we both agree, its likelythe single higher temp wash is more efficient but all are guesses without knowing the details.

[Deleted User]

Hopefully not to confuse things, but just a quick comment on "Eco" settings....

These settings are often "eco" in the sense that they save water rather than energy, so it's quite possible for an eco setting to use more energy than a regular setting if they're doing more whirring and tumbling to make the clothes get clean in less water.

busybee100

The only way you will know which is most efficient is by monitoring the use for each cycle.

I have some figures for my WM to work out what costs the most.
Cold fill.

Short 20min wash
30c 2rinse 1200spin 169w
20c 2rinse 1200spin 79w


Daily 1hr wash
40c 2rinse 1400spin 642w
30c 3rinse 1400spin 386w
20c 3rinse 1400spin 158w
20c 2rinse 1400spin 152w

I can do 4 washes at 20c for the same as 1 at 40c I'm not using the eco setting because it takes 5hours and I need to get it out when the sun's shining.

Compared to DW 0.8kWh or 1.1kWh the WM is excellent value

busybee100

From the figures above it looks like each 10⁰c is over 200w.

What about doing the darks at 20⁰c to make sure? Two half loads but one at 20⁰c and one at 30⁰c.

For me it's important to be able to get it dry between showers so a half load at a low temp and pegged out is what I aim for.

[Deleted User]

busybee100 said:

The only way you will know which is most efficient is by monitoring the use for each cycle.

I have some figures for my WM to work out what costs the most.
Cold fill.

Short 20min wash
30c 2rinse 1200spin 169w
20c 2rinse 1200spin 79w


Daily 1hr wash
40c 2rinse 1400spin 642w
30c 3rinse 1400spin 386w
20c 3rinse 1400spin 158w
20c 2rinse 1400spin 152w

I can do 4 washes at 20c for the same as 1 at 40c I'm not using the eco setting because it takes 5hours and I need to get it out when the sun's shining.

Compared to DW 0.8kWh or 1.1kWh the WM is excellent value

Sorry but you are confusing instant power with usage. For billing purposes what you need to record is the instant power times the amount of time that the item is drawing that power.

For example, a 3kW kettle in use would show a 3kW load on a recording meter. If the kettle took 5 minutes to heat the contents of the kettle then your meter index would move on by (3000 * 5)/60 or 250Wh. In other words you would be charged for 1/4 of a unit on your bill.

Edit: My wife put on our washing machine 20 minutes ago on a 40C wash. The water heater was drawing about 2.5kW. Now that the water temperature has reached 40C, the machine is drawing less than 100W as it tumbles then clothes. The power requirement will increase again when it goes into its 1600RPM spin cycle. It is the sum of the instant power versus duration that gives the kWh usage of a washing machine.

[Deleted User]

[Deleted User] said:

busybee100 said:

The only way you will know which is most efficient is by monitoring the use for each cycle.

I have some figures for my WM to work out what costs the most.
Cold fill.

Short 20min wash
30c 2rinse 1200spin 169w
20c 2rinse 1200spin 79w


Daily 1hr wash
40c 2rinse 1400spin 642w
30c 3rinse 1400spin 386w
20c 3rinse 1400spin 158w
20c 2rinse 1400spin 152w

I can do 4 washes at 20c for the same as 1 at 40c I'm not using the eco setting because it takes 5hours and I need to get it out when the sun's shining.

Compared to DW 0.8kWh or 1.1kWh the WM is excellent value

Sorry but you are confusing instant power with usage. For billing purposes what you need to record is the instant power times the amount of time that the item is drawing that power.

For example, a 3kW kettle in use would show a 3kW load on a recording meter. If the kettle took 5 minutes to heat the contents of the kettle then your meter index would move on by (3000 * 5)/60 or 250Wh. In other words you would be charged for 1/4 of a unit on your bill.

Edit: My wife put on our washing machine 20 minutes ago on a 40C wash. The water heater was drawing about 2.5kW. Now that the water temperature has reached 40C, the machine is drawing less than 100W as it tumbles then clothes. The power requirement will increase again when it goes into its 1600RPM spin cycle. It is the sum of the instant power versus duration that gives the kWh usage of a washing machine.

I don’t think they are confusing it. I think they’re either stating average power over the specified wash cycle (more likely) or have missed the ‘h’ off the unit (given those numbers I think less likely).

Either way the comparison might be accurate.

busybee100

You need to educate me then.

I put the monitor between the socket and plug. It records highs, lows, current use, time, cost, volts and other stuff and how much it has used cumulatively.

The figure I have given is how many units were used for each cycle.

How should I have recorded it?

[Deleted User]

I agree that is a possibility but there is already a great deal of consumer confusion is this forum.

DullGreyGuy

mmmmikey said:

Hopefully not to confuse things, but just a quick comment on "Eco" settings....

These settings are often "eco" in the sense that they save water rather than energy, so it's quite possible for an eco setting to use more energy than a regular setting if they're doing more whirring and tumbling to make the clothes get clean in less water.

Clearly depends on brand... eco can be water, electricity or both... certainly on our machine eco has the lowest power and water consumption but by far the longest time. 

Spoonie_Turtle

busybee100 said:

You need to educate me then.

I put the monitor between the socket and plug. It records highs, lows, current use, time, cost, volts and other stuff and how much it has used cumulatively.

The figure I have given is how many units were used for each cycle.

How should I have recorded it?

Wh.

I can believe your numbers, our reasonably old second-hand (maybe even third-hand) machine used just over 0.3kWh / 300Wh on a fast 30℃ cycle, and about 0.5kWh / 500Wh on a longer 30℃ cycle.  I was impressed, anyway.