Advice needed for a cracked wall.

fandyman

Here is a shot from the front:

stuart45

I would definitely at least monitor the cracks for movement. You can fit tell tales that will give you an accurate reading.

MalMonroe

Hi, is it very expensive to have a structural engineer round to do an inspection and advise what to do? Do they give 'no obligation' quotes? (I really don't know, sorry.)

Is such a thing covered by your buildings insurance at all?

About 15 years ago I sold a house with cracked outside bricks, looking very much like yours in pictures 3 and 8 in your OP. I DID point them out to the estate agent and the buyer. Neither seemed very concerned and the house is still standing to this very day. But there were also inside cracks as on your interior walls.

I never actually found out what the problem was as I left it to the buyers, who were well informed and happy to take on the 'old crock' of a property to renovate and then sell on. They did buy it cheaply, obviously. (In fact it was a new build when we moved in. Very badly made and the developer went out of business). The buyers spent money on it and made it fabulous, then sold it on. I couldn't have afforded to do it.

When you say "there are a few leaks from the upstairs bathrooms that are not serious but from the staining in the downstairs it makes me think the issues are not fully resolved" - I see that as a big red flag. I know from watching Homes Under the Hammer (look at me, the property expert now!) that any leak needs to be investigated and fixed. I just watched an episode where the house appeared to tilt and there were many big cracks in the interior and exterior walls that the presenter (Lucy) could stick her hand in. The problem was caused by too many trees around the property and broken drains underneath them. However, you say that's not the case with yours so it must be something else. But I do know that any leak needs to be attended to, stat.

If it were me, I would be loath to leave it and see what happens because you just don't know what might happen and it may be detrimental and costly. Thinking of that old saying now, 'a stitch in time saves nine'. 

I'd have to get an expert in just for some advice. 

Just my own opinion, obviously.

stuart45

I would guess that when it had a stout timber bay window in place it was giving more support to the beam, but when it was replaced with plastic there would be less.

chris_n

stuart45 said:

I would guess that when it had a stout timber bay window in place it was giving more support to the beam, but when it was replaced with plastic there would be less.

I don't know who signed that design off, it would have been bad enough with a 'stout timber bay window' but with plastic there now it has no chance. Get some Acrow props under it until you get the window area reinforced.
There is no chance of a new buildings insurance covering this.
In your first area, is there a lintel over the door or has a 'stout timber' door frame been removed leaving nothing holding the first floor up?

fandyman

I have got insurance on the building already - are you saying if anything happens I would not be able to claim through it?

I am not sure about lintel in the first area. I have some photos from the time it was refurbished and the door seem to be untouched (far end on photo nr 2). I've also noticed there used to be door leading to the garage which was bricked up (right side on photo nr 1 and near end on photo nr 2) to create space for new kitchen (this could have only reinforced the wall?) but the old door at the end of the area were left intact. If it was left out as originally designed I can only assume there must have been lintel put in place above it?

One thing to mention is a wall was removed (not a load bearing wall AFAIK) and a steel beam added to reinforce the area. This has been done in between the two areas I posted about originally and can be shown on the following two photos:

ashe

Buildings insurance will only pay for things that happened during your policy. Makes sense if you think about it else people would buy ruined houses, insure it and put in a claim 

fandyman

In terms of the bay window there must be a beam holding the whole structure up?

Is it possible it is a wooden beam from new or knowing the house was built in the 50s that would be a steel one?

fandyman

One other thing I noticed is the strut closer to the damaged brickwork is moving when touched. Shouldn't that be fixed and giving some support to the structure?

stuart45

I would look at getting an SE in to look for a solution. The structure has moved down a bit, so there is a problem. It may well have started with the window replacement. The beam could be steel, timber or a flitch beam.
Jettying has been used for hundreds of years, so it does work if done properly. It is more commonly done with timber frame, as that is more forgiving of any movement.
Although the strut is a bit loose, a lot of the system works by cantilever.