Adding a socket

Section62

Mr.Generous said:

He is right they MIGHT be.

"MIGHT be" is fair enough.

"Definitely" isn't - not without doing better testing than either grumbler or you have suggested.

Mr.Generous said:

If they both go from live to dead at the same time then they are connected.

That would be a false and potentially dangerous assumption.  It isn't a safe way of determining whether two conductors are connected.

People are making guesses, which can have fatal results.

Thankfully the OP has decided to take the safer option of getting an electrician to do the work.

markin

itssmallstuff said:

B Boiler

G Garage , covered. Own ring circuit
P printer 

Will that location give good wi-fi to every room? Have you tested it? A more central location may be better, You will have a great signal in the Garage!

stephen2555

taking another feed from the boiler FCU should be fine, 2.5mm cable from the live side of the FCU, as you are taking a spur from a spur(looking at the wiring) this then needs to go to another switched (or unswitched) FCU with a 13amp fuse first, then 2.5mm cable from there to your double socket on the switched side of the FCU

    Everything plugged into the double sockets will be protected by the 13amp fuse in the FCU so you can't overload the circuit, no need to drill pugs through walls etc.

stephen2555

Bendy_House said:

Ah, ok. In that case you do have two options - one is a 'hard-wired' socket taken from that boiler switch - which can be done but I WOULDN'T recommend you do at ALL, and the other is the drill-through-wall and pass flexible cable through to a fused PLUGTOP (not a spur) in the garage. A multi-way socket in that lower cupboard - drill the hole through directly to that lower cupboard IF it's just as easy, but check both sides of that wall before drilling. 

Label your plugtop 'PC - LEAVE ON!' or similar!

Also add label to garage MCB in your CU to indicate PC SUPPLY ?

And still design some waterproof covering.

Why wouldnt you reccomend taking a spur from the boiler switch?

Bendy_House

stephen2555 said:

Bendy_House said:

Ah, ok. In that case you do have two options - one is a 'hard-wired' socket taken from that boiler switch - which can be done but I WOULDN'T recommend you do at ALL, and the other is the drill-through-wall and pass flexible cable through to a fused PLUGTOP (not a spur) in the garage. A multi-way socket in that lower cupboard - drill the hole through directly to that lower cupboard IF it's just as easy, but check both sides of that wall before drilling. 

Label your plugtop 'PC - LEAVE ON!' or similar!

Also add label to garage MCB in your CU to indicate PC SUPPLY ?

And still design some waterproof covering.

Why wouldnt you reccomend taking a spur from the boiler switch?

I wasn't recommending the OP do this as a DIY project, but it could be done as a solution.

Section62

stephen2555 said:

Bendy_House said:

Ah, ok. In that case you do have two options - one is a 'hard-wired' socket taken from that boiler switch - which can be done but I WOULDN'T recommend you do at ALL, and the other is the drill-through-wall and pass flexible cable through to a fused PLUGTOP (not a spur) in the garage. A multi-way socket in that lower cupboard - drill the hole through directly to that lower cupboard IF it's just as easy, but check both sides of that wall before drilling. 

Label your plugtop 'PC - LEAVE ON!' or similar!

Also add label to garage MCB in your CU to indicate PC SUPPLY ?

And still design some waterproof covering.

Why wouldnt you reccomend taking a spur from the boiler switch?

Because none of us know that the "boiler FCU" is on a suitable circuit.

Your advice that it "should be fine" is bad advice, because you simply can't know that.

fenwick458

stephen2555 said:

Why wouldnt you reccomend taking a spur from the boiler switch?

one good reason why not is it would be very difficult to terminate it, looks like there's already 3 x 2.5mm cables in there.

grumbler

fenwick458 said:

stephen2555 said:

Why wouldnt you reccomend taking a spur from the boiler switch?

one good reason why not is it would be very difficult to terminate it, looks like there's already 3 x 2.5mm cables in there.

From which, most likely, only 2 cables are connected to  'supply' terminals.