Supporting worktop - no room for a leg/panel!!

itssmallstuff

Bendy_House said:

itssmallstuff said:

So, I have 3 appliances in a row - washing machine, dryer and water softener (60cm, 60cm, 30cm;wide). The wall behind is 153 cm. So that is 3 cms extra for support only.

Ah, I now see the LH unit is shallower depth.

Ok, after the softener is fitted, what is the EXACT MAX width you will have available for the two appliances - that's between the side of that stepped-out wall, and the unit that's holding the softener?

And what is the side of that stepped-out wall made of - the part hidden below worktop level? Is it plasterboard? Or is it plaster on brick?

And what is the gap between the appliance tops and the worktop underside?

Is the water softener going inside an actual 'unit' - ie will that RH under-sink gap ultimately have a LH side panel?

There is literally no space after the softner is fitted. If no support is added except for the battons along the back/side edge, I will have a length of 1.5 m unsupported at front, which worries me.

GDB2222

If I understand correctly, you are worried that the 1.5m length of worktop isn't strong enough without a central support. It's supported on three sides with battens/unit, so I think it is strong enough, as it looks like a nice thick chunk of worktop. Just, don't stand on it.

The weakest part is where the little sink is. Do you need that? A new worktop, without the sink cut-out, would be stronger.

If you are really, really desperate to be able to have a small party standing on the worktop, you could screw two or three 38mm worktops together, so that it's double/triple thickness. It might look quite interesting! 

GDB2222

Can I ask what sort of panel you are planning to put in front of the water softener? Can that be made to support the worktop, whilst still removeable for maintenance of the softener?  That would reduce the unsupported length to 1.2m, which is nothing, really.

FreeBear

A span of 1500mm should be OK as long as you have a batten securely fixed to the wall along the back. Fixing an angle bracket (HD shelf bracket) in the gap between sink & washing machine would reduce the unsupported length slightly. Depending on how much of a gap you have between worktop & appliances, a strip of angle iron could be fixed to the underside of the worktop (50-100mm back from the front edge). But I don't think you'd really need either.

Hopefully, when your new fitter arrives, he can radius the end of the worktop by the door - Having a square edge just there is going to hurt if someone runs in through the open door (think, small child).

itssmallstuff

GDB2222 said:

Can I ask what sort of panel you are planning to put in front of the water softener? Can that be made to support the worktop, whilst still removeable for maintenance of the softener?  That would reduce the unsupported length to 1.2m, which is nothing, really.

I wasn't sure about covering the water softener as out initial plan to put into a cabinate didn't quite workout as there is no room for cabinate with watersoftner in it.

I was thinking maybe just put a cabinate door that has magnetic catches at back and two small wood supports that hold it (so it looks like cabinet without the cabinet carcase.. Not sure there will be space for the wood supports yet

itssmallstuff

FreeBear said:

A span of 1500mm should be OK as long as you have a batten securely fixed to the wall along the back. Fixing an angle bracket (HD shelf bracket) in the gap between sink & washing machine would reduce the unsupported length slightly. Depending on how much of a gap you have between worktop & appliances, a strip of angle iron could be fixed to the underside of the worktop (50-100mm back from the front edge). But I don't think you'd really need either.

Hopefully, when your new fitter arrives, he can radius the end of the worktop by the door - Having a square edge just there is going to hurt if someone runs in through the open door (think, small child).

Plan is - get them fix the already curved edge and if the workmenship is good, ask them do the other also. Complete agree it's an hazard. We don't use the back door much, but it is still an hazard and needs fixing...

FreeBear

itssmallstuff said:

FreeBear said:

A span of 1500mm should be OK as long as you have a batten securely fixed to the wall along the back. Fixing an angle bracket (HD shelf bracket) in the gap between sink & washing machine would reduce the unsupported length slightly. Depending on how much of a gap you have between worktop & appliances, a strip of angle iron could be fixed to the underside of the worktop (50-100mm back from the front edge). But I don't think you'd really need either.

Hopefully, when your new fitter arrives, he can radius the end of the worktop by the door - Having a square edge just there is going to hurt if someone runs in through the open door (think, small child).

Plan is - get them fix the already curved edge and if the workmenship is good, ask them do the other also. Complete agree it's an hazard. We don't use the back door much, but it is still an hazard and needs fixing...

It would be wise to discuss the corner radius before they start fixing the other end. It may be, taking the whole worktop outside to work on will be easier. So putting a radius on the end whilst outside will be much easier, and less mess to clear up afterwards.