Socket face plate but sits proud from wall

As part of redecorating we've been switching all the sockets and switches to designer ones (yes, probably a bit mad, but they look so nice!)

In the living room we have two sockets that are slightly different. We've replaced everything so far with just a flat face plate that sits nice and close to the wall. 

However these two are odd. One is cut into the skirting board and the other is in a unit that sits... more proud? I am not sure how to explain it so here's some pictures.

I'm guessing for this one, though I could replace it with a face plate flush variety there is a chance it won't fit in the gap already cut into the skirting board (such a shame they cut it in!)



And for this one.. what is it called? 



I'd still like to replace them both as they're a bit ropey, but perhaps just with some brass ones that are still similar chunky shape rather than the nice flat designer ones I've been using elsewhere. But I am not sure what I should be searching for when I look to purchase.
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Comments

  • FaceHead
    FaceHead Posts: 737 Forumite
    500 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    The top one - as you say - has been cut into the skirting board, probably because a taller skirting board was put on later. You could replace it with whatever you like and then cut/fill the skirting board as required to fit round it. 

    On the bottom one, it looks like a socket and a spacer - i.e. two separate things there. You can see that the spacer is less rounded than the actual socket. You tend to do this when you don't have enough space in the back box to accommodate all the wires, and are too lazy to sink the backbox deeper. Once again, you can replace it with what you want, but might find there's little room in there. In that case, you might find you need to replace the backbox with a deeper one to give you the flush look you want.
  • 1. At first glance I thought they were single gang to two gang converter sockets, but they are not, they are standard twin gang sockets.  
    2. The one sunk into the skirting board looks like an ordinary twin gang switched socket.  If you want to replace it you are going to have to cut the skirting board more if the new socket is larger, or remodel the skirting board if the new socket is smaller.  Likely to be little work, and if remodelling, something like Polyfilla carefully applied then filed / sanded will probably do the trick.
    3. The other one appears to have a thin surface mounting pattress behind it.  This may be because the back box has not been or cannot be deep enough in the wall.  This is potentially more difficult to deal with, especially if wall thickness will not permit excavation to fit a deeper back box.  
    4. When you have finished, I would recommend getting the installation checked to ensure all the connections to the backs of the sockets have been correctly remade, especially that the "earth" conductor is continuous from consumer unit, all round the circuits and back to the consumer unit.  
  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 9,133 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Fourth Anniversary Name Dropper
    As part of redecorating we've been switching all the sockets and switches to designer ones (yes, probably a bit mad, but they look so nice!)

    In the living room we have two sockets that are slightly different. We've replaced everything so far with just a flat face plate that sits nice and close to the wall. 

    However these two are odd. One is cut into the skirting board and the other is in a unit that sits... more proud? I am not sure how to explain it so here's some pictures.

    I'm guessing for this one, though I could replace it with a face plate flush variety there is a chance it won't fit in the gap already cut into the skirting board (such a shame they cut it in!)



    And for this one.. what is it called? 



    I'd still like to replace them both as they're a bit ropey, but perhaps just with some brass ones that are still similar chunky shape rather than the nice flat designer ones I've been using elsewhere. But I am not sure what I should be searching for when I look to purchase.
    It looks (certainly with the second one) like they have been installed using a "pattress box" rather than a "back box".

    If so, you'll only get a flush fit by converting them to back boxes (i.e. digging into the wall (if possible) and fitting the recessed back box).  It may not be possible to get the required recess due to hidden structure or pipework etc.
  • Rodders53
    Rodders53 Posts: 2,583 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 19 April 2022 at 5:03PM
    Faceplates are all virtually the same size so your designer will likely fit in that recess.  Depending on back box depth and cables in it a flat plate will sit closer to the wall and that looks likely give issues with cable from a plug and the skirting.  A plastic spacer plate is available e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/light-switch-surrounds/cat13020002 to restore the depth of that plastic socket wallplate and might not look too bad?  Or move the socket/wallplate higher (if there's slack in the existing cables to do that) and make good the hole and skirting profile.

    The other one is in a < surface box > a bit like this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-2-gang-surface-pattress-back-box-30mm/16168 they are often only 25mm deep.
    IF it's deep enough you might get a flat plate to fit?  The proper way is to get a deep metal back box fitted into the wall  or if hollow stud plasterboard wall a dry lining plastic backbox designed for plasterboard.
    https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/back-boxes/cat7230011
    I've never seen any metal surface boxes other than the steel metalclad industrial style https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/metal-clad-switches-sockets/cat2430004

    As always with electricity call in the professionals if you are in any doubt of your ability to safely diy this!!


  • greensalad
    greensalad Posts: 2,530 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Thanks for the tips everyone!

    So I am going to attempt to measure up the skirting-board cut one and just see if I can get a slightly chunkier faceplate than the ones we've been using. I suspect it'd fit, but because the ones we're purchased are so thin (a few mm) I think it would look strange more sunken into the skirting. 

    For the one with the pattress back I am tempted to paint the pattress itself and then just try and get a nicer looking face plate that matches the size. The reason I'm so keen to get rid of the white plastic is because the walls are so dark it feels a bit out of place. (I have been using Varilight paintable ones in a room where there were blanking plates all over the walls at eyeline, and they've worked well, so maybe that's an option).

    I doubt I can dig back further. I suspect the socket being in the party wall may be the issue, either way not a job I'm willing to do if I can just make it look a tad better!
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    If the new faceplates are brass/metal, should they have additional earth wires connected between them and to the earthed backboxes? Or are modern sockets designed well enough to use the fixing screws for this?
  • Rodders53
    Rodders53 Posts: 2,583 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    If the new faceplates are brass/metal, should they have additional earth wires connected between them and to the earthed backboxes? Or are modern sockets designed well enough to use the fixing screws for this?
    If metal backbox is earthed already no  ;)

    If not, an earth wire to the backbox earth lug is best practice.  Especially if both back box mounting lugs are movable.
  • greensalad
    greensalad Posts: 2,530 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 19 April 2022 at 6:56PM
    I will have to wait and see what the deal is when I take them off, as we have discovered one unearthed plug socket in another room so there may well be more! However that one was particularly ancient...

    I am going to go for wooden plates I think as they should go well (and I can get them from Screwfix so can return them if they break!)

    I have measured both sockets as 142mm wide, which I'm guessing is standard. Wish me luck in getting them to fit!
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,862 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    The good news is that the size of a socket has been standardised for many years, as has the spacing of the two screws.  So there's no reason why a new socket shouldn't fit, give or take the edges of the faceplate.

    Don't throw away the screws from the old sockets until you've checked that the new ones will screw in.  While the spacing hasn't changed, at some point the manufacturers switched from imperial screws to metric ones.  They look just the same, but the threads are slightly different.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
  • fenwick458
    fenwick458 Posts: 1,522 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    screws will be M3.5 and will almost certainly fit, and the centres of the screw holes will be the same yes
    the size of the sockets is not so standardised , certain decorative plates are upto 5mm bigger overall. the most common decorative accessories will be the same size, but some are odd and chances are if you want wooden ones they will be bigger and not fit in that gap in the skirting.
    another problem if you for some reason decide to fit a socket like this for example, it will be 2-3 mm shallower than the existing 1980's ashley double socket thats stuck in the skirting board, so certain moulded plugs might not fit in properly.
    If it were my house I'd raise the one in the skirting board by 50mm at least so it matches the other one, and for the pattress that has been plastered around, remove it and sink in a metal backbox and then fill around it. or get an electrician to do that.
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