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Electricity in garage
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As above. Just use an extension cable for the odd time you do need power in the garage. Cheap and won't require any ground works or modifications to the house electrical circuits.
What's the highest wattage device you would need to run at any time in the garage? As another option, you could consider an inexpensive petrol generator which would then give you portable power to use elsewhere. More hassle and a lot more expensive than an extension cable, but a useful tool if you have the need for it elsewhere.
The other thing I am unsure about is the cost associated with terminating the supply. I'm sure I read elsewhere that after a period of inactivity (1 year?) there is a requirement to have the supply to the property terminated at your expense. I could be wrong on this, but it would be worth investigating.0 -
I ran an armored cable under the drive to the house, didn't need an electrician as it's connected in the house with a standard 13A plug and socket, which also makes it easy to turn off when finished to ensure I'm not left anything on in the garage (I do have lighting in there as well)Very similar to an extension cable, but a lot more permanent and easier to re-use.2
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Astria said:I ran an armored cable under the drive to the house, didn't need an electrician as it's connected in the house with a standard 13A plug and socket, which also makes it easy to turn off when finished to ensure I'm not left anything on in the garage (I do have lighting in there as well)
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Section62 said:Astria said:I ran an armored cable under the drive to the house, didn't need an electrician as it's connected in the house with a standard 13A plug and socket, which also makes it easy to turn off when finished to ensure I'm not left anything on in the garage (I do have lighting in there as well)Please tell that to the several electricians that have done the yearly EICR for the property - as it's not part of any circuit and not permanently connected it doesn't need to be tested or certified. It's the same as running a device from an extension cable. Now if I had connected it via a spur, even if it had a 5A fuse inside, the cable would have needed to be installed and tested by a qualified electrician as it would be considered a permanent part.
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Astria said:Section62 said:Astria said:I ran an armored cable under the drive to the house, didn't need an electrician as it's connected in the house with a standard 13A plug and socket, which also makes it easy to turn off when finished to ensure I'm not left anything on in the garage (I do have lighting in there as well)Please tell that to the several electricians that have done the yearly EICR for the property - as it's not part of any circuit and not permanently connected it doesn't need to be tested or certified. It's the same as running a device from an extension cable. Now if I had connected it via a spur, even if it had a 5A fuse inside, the cable would have needed to be installed and tested by a qualified electrician as it would be considered a permanent part.Permanance of the connection isn't a relevant factor in this sense. What matters is whether or not it is an 'installation'.The electricians doing an EICR wouldn't know who installed the equipment and what qualifications they had. They would simply look at the installation on the day, as they find it.But if any future electricians do query this part of your installation they might point you to something like the following NICEIC factsheet -https://www.niceic.com/Niceic.com/media/Schemes/NICEIC-Part-P-Updated-Factsheet.pdfAlso note that I said "doesn't alter the legal requirements" which wasn't a comment on whether it does or doesn't "need to be tested or certified". And likewise, you don't have to be a "qualified electrician" to carry out electrical installation work (on your own property), but "legal requirements" still apply.
Installing electrical equipment is within the scope of Part P even if the final connection is by a standard 13 amp plug and socket but is only notifiable if it involves work set out in areas previously mentioned.
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I think the path of least resistance could be just to get a portable battery that you can take out to the garage when you need it.
Amazon - Portable Power Stations0 -
saveallmymoney said:I think the path of least resistance could be just to get a portable battery that you can take out to the garage when you need it.
Amazon - Portable Power Stations
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Gerry1 said:Buy a plug-in EV. You could get an absurdly low rate for a few hours per night and not have to worry about an absurdly high day rate.
If you do ever get an EV, then having a dedicated supply to the garage could be a bonus. No worries about overloading the house supply while charging the car.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.3 -
Section62 said:Astria said:Section62 said:Astria said:I ran an armored cable under the drive to the house, didn't need an electrician as it's connected in the house with a standard 13A plug and socket, which also makes it easy to turn off when finished to ensure I'm not left anything on in the garage (I do have lighting in there as well)Please tell that to the several electricians that have done the yearly EICR for the property - as it's not part of any circuit and not permanently connected it doesn't need to be tested or certified. It's the same as running a device from an extension cable. Now if I had connected it via a spur, even if it had a 5A fuse inside, the cable would have needed to be installed and tested by a qualified electrician as it would be considered a permanent part.Permanance of the connection isn't a relevant factor in this sense. What matters is whether or not it is an 'installation'.The electricians doing an EICR wouldn't know who installed the equipment and what qualifications they had. They would simply look at the installation on the day, as they find it.But if any future electricians do query this part of your installation they might point you to something like the following NICEIC factsheet -https://www.niceic.com/Niceic.com/media/Schemes/NICEIC-Part-P-Updated-Factsheet.pdfAlso note that I said "doesn't alter the legal requirements" which wasn't a comment on whether it does or doesn't "need to be tested or certified". And likewise, you don't have to be a "qualified electrician" to carry out electrical installation work (on your own property), but "legal requirements" still apply.
Installing electrical equipment is within the scope of Part P even if the final connection is by a standard 13 amp plug and socket but is only notifiable if it involves work set out in areas previously mentioned.
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Is the route between the house and garage all across your property, or does it involve crossing a public area, road, pavement, etc.? I'd guess the latter unless you have an older/large house, as 20 metres is quite a long way. That would make running an extension lead (or digging up the road for an electrician to install a cable) less of a good option. It would also explain why there are two separate supplies in the first place.
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