Storad Storage Heaters

Gerry1

Bemahan said:

Gerry1 said:

Leave the left black switch on tonight (one pink blob) if tomorrow's weather is expected to be mild.    Leave the right switch on (two blobs) if the weather will be cold.  Leave them both on (three blobs) if a Beast from the East is due.

There is no sign of a flap anywhere which might hide an output control. So do you think the one knob on the front is probably the Output control too? And a boost from the convector only kicks in if the convector is switched on at the 13A socket on the wall?

No, as @[Deleted User]'s link confirms, the convector is just a separate  heater in the same box. and the rotary knob only controls the convector's independent thermostat.

The bricks probably have a crude output control hidden away inside, a flap that closes when the bricks are hot and a bi-metallic strip that opens the flap when the bricks have cooled down a bit.

Yours seems to be a cheap and cheerful model: some other old NSHs have a two-position knob output where one setting moves a lever that pushes the flap shut; in the other position it lets the bimetallic strip open the flap to give an evening boost.  However, your model has the convector to give a boost, so presumably they decided that a belt and braces boost system would be too confusing so they saved a bob or two by omitting any user-adjustable output control.

Try turning both black switches on to give three blobs; one element may be faulty.  If you jiggle the wall switch after the E7 circuit has become live you may be able to hear it spark if the heater is charging up.

If it still doesn't work, it may be something as simple as a reset being needed.  However, if you're not confident about electrical isolation and safety it may be best left to an electrician.

Check whether your meter has a Boost setting that allows the E7 circuits to be livened up for an hour during the day (but at expensive daytime rates).  It's intended for NSHs that don't have built in convectors but it also makes it easier to fault find during normal working hours.

Bemahan

@Gerry1 & @[Deleted User] 
Thanks both. Apologies for missing that info in the link. Cheap model sounds likely as they were installed when the retirement flats were built in the mid-1980s. Done their time though!

Gerry1

Bemahan said:

[Deleted User] said:

Hi,

this answer HERE might help.

still don't understand how the output of the stored heat is controlled - does the thermostat knob control the stored heat as long as the convector is switched off at the 13A wall socket, please?

No, the convector and the NSH are two independent heaters in the same box and they have separate electrical supplies (the 13A socket and fixed spur respectively).

If you switch on the 13A socket the upper neon should glow to show the convector is ready for use.  If you turn the knob clockwise the lower neon should also glow to show the convector is heating up; you may hear the thermostat click.  Turn it back to zero and the lower neon should go off.

danrv

So looks like a fault with the charging on the SRC 252-1 if it’s not getting warm overnight.
Should also be able to hear components working if it was ok.
I’d get a good electrician to take a look. They can take Ohms readings on the elements and check supply, thermostat/regulator.
Parts available as shown earlier.

Gerry1

danrv said:

I’d get a good electrician to take a look. They can take Ohms readings on the elements and check supply, thermostat/regulator.

The difficulty there is that the supply won't be live (assuming the meter doesn't have a Boost function) unless the electrician attends after midnight or whenever, and the overtime would be horrendous !

A workaround would be to disconnect the NSH wiring from the spur outlet, connect a 13A plug and use the 13A socket which should be live 24h.

@Bemaham could do this test if they feel confident, but it's vital to switch off everything at the consumer unit and not rely on the E7 times (the circuit could liven up unexpectedly at any time if the clock is adrift).  A check with a neon screwdriver or voltmeter would also be wise.

A competent electrician should have no problems thinking this through, but other posters have come across some who seem somewhat less clued up.

danrv

Gerry1 said:

danrv said:

I’d get a good electrician to take a look. They can take Ohms readings on the elements and check supply, thermostat/regulator.

The difficulty there is that the supply won't be live (assuming the meter doesn't have a Boost function) unless the electrician attends after midnight or whenever, and the overtime would be horrendous !

Yes, forgot about that.
My E10 times have shifted several hours so the charging circuit is live until early evening.
Electrician was able to do checks on my warm air storage heater during normal working hours.