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Only half my new electric hob is working

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  • greyteam1959
    greyteam1959 Posts: 4,710 Forumite
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    Why has the OP changed the picture ??
    And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
    The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 9,871 Forumite
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    Why has the OP changed the picture ??
    And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
    The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
    The 'live' and neutral wires have also been moved to terminals in an arrangement which doesn't reflect any of the diagrams on the original image. And the copper bridge has been removed.

    I'm now only going to say that the OP needs to get a professional to do this job for them. They risk electric shock or fire if they continue trying to fix it themselves, especially if (as it appears) they are trying random combinations until it works.
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,981 Forumite
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    adougl16 said:
    It was bought in the UK, so I am at a loss why it is a "pan European design"

    Because it would cost more to build different ones depending on which country they were going to end up in.  Despite Brexit, we still follow most of the Eropean product standards, which means that an electrical item sold anywhere in Europe should work everywhere in Europe.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
  • greyteam1959
    greyteam1959 Posts: 4,710 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Section62 said:
    Why has the OP changed the picture ??
    And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
    The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
    The 'live' and neutral wires have also been moved to terminals in an arrangement which doesn't reflect any of the diagrams on the original image. And the copper bridge has been removed.

    I'm now only going to say that the OP needs to get a professional to do this job for them. They risk electric shock or fire if they continue trying to fix it themselves, especially if (as it appears) they are trying random combinations until it works.
    Agreed the OP should stop fiddling about with this before there is a nasty accident.

  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
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    edited 7 August 2021 at 8:03PM
    The cable clamp looks too weak to hold the heavy T+E cable too.  Could do with something else to stop it twisting each time the hob is moved
    How often does one move a built-in hob? I haven't moved mine for 20 years since I installed it. That said, I think it's supposed to be connected with  a flexible rubber cable.

  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Why has the OP changed the picture ??
    And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
    The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.

    Section62 said:
    Why has the OP changed the picture ??
    And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
    The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
    The 'live' and neutral wires have also been moved to terminals in an arrangement which doesn't reflect any of the diagrams on the original image. And the copper bridge has been removed.

    I'm now only going to say that the OP needs to get a professional to do this job for them. They risk electric shock or fire if they continue trying to fix it themselves, especially if (as it appears) they are trying random combinations until it works.

    The earth isn't connected now?! And the bridge has gone?!
    WTH is going on?
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,259 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    grumbler said:
    The cable clamp looks too weak to hold the heavy T+E cable too.  Could do with something else to stop it twisting each time the hob is moved
    How often do one moves a built-in hob? I haven't moved mine for 20 years since I installed it. That said, I think it's supposed to be connected with  a flexible rubber cable.

    A flexible heat resistant cable, not T+E.
    Both my built in oven and hob came prewired with a length of cable ready to be connected to the outlet plate on the wall.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • coffeehound
    coffeehound Posts: 5,741 Forumite
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    grumbler said:
    The cable clamp looks too weak to hold the heavy T+E cable too.  Could do with something else to stop it twisting each time the hob is moved
    How often do one moves a built-in hob? I haven't moved mine for 20 years since I installed it. That said, I think it's supposed to be connected with  a flexible rubber cable.


    Well, whether moved or not, the flimsy clamp isn't up to wrangling the heavy cable

    grumbler said:
    The earth isn't connected now?! And the bridge has gone?!
    WTH is going on?

    The bridge is still there, but now bottom left.  No idea why the photo was changed
  • fenwick458
    fenwick458 Posts: 1,522 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    the flex clamp is 100% necessary, 6mm T&E only needs moved by a few cm left and right and it could loosen the connections.
    grumbler said:
    WTH is going on?
    I think whats happening is the OP is just blindly trying every possible combination until it works. or they break something or get a shock which is more likely 
  • neilmcl
    neilmcl Posts: 19,460 Forumite
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    edited 7 August 2021 at 7:52PM
    I can't be sure without seeing the original pics and wiring diagrams but stowed at the bottom left of the connector box in the new pic there are a number of metal/copper pieces. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't these used to bridge the terminals when using a single phase supply, eg, you insert the live wire to live 1 and use the link to connect to live 2, the same for neutral and the earth just goes straight to the earth connector.
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