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Only half my new electric hob is working
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Why has the OP changed the picture ??
And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.1 -
greyteam1959 said:Why has the OP changed the picture ??
And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
I'm now only going to say that the OP needs to get a professional to do this job for them. They risk electric shock or fire if they continue trying to fix it themselves, especially if (as it appears) they are trying random combinations until it works.1 -
adougl16 said:It was bought in the UK, so I am at a loss why it is a "pan European design"
Because it would cost more to build different ones depending on which country they were going to end up in. Despite Brexit, we still follow most of the Eropean product standards, which means that an electrical item sold anywhere in Europe should work everywhere in Europe.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
Section62 said:greyteam1959 said:Why has the OP changed the picture ??
And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
I'm now only going to say that the OP needs to get a professional to do this job for them. They risk electric shock or fire if they continue trying to fix it themselves, especially if (as it appears) they are trying random combinations until it works.
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coffeehound said:The cable clamp looks too weak to hold the heavy T+E cable too. Could do with something else to stop it twisting each time the hob is moved
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greyteam1959 said:Why has the OP changed the picture ??
And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.Section62 said:greyteam1959 said:Why has the OP changed the picture ??
And taped up part of the black wire on the new picture ??
The black wire STILL has damage where it enters the grey sheath.
I'm now only going to say that the OP needs to get a professional to do this job for them. They risk electric shock or fire if they continue trying to fix it themselves, especially if (as it appears) they are trying random combinations until it works.The earth isn't connected now?! And the bridge has gone?!WTH is going on?0 -
grumbler said:coffeehound said:The cable clamp looks too weak to hold the heavy T+E cable too. Could do with something else to stop it twisting each time the hob is movedA flexible heat resistant cable, not T+E.Both my built in oven and hob came prewired with a length of cable ready to be connected to the outlet plate on the wall.Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
grumbler said:coffeehound said:The cable clamp looks too weak to hold the heavy T+E cable too. Could do with something else to stop it twisting each time the hob is moved
Well, whether moved or not, the flimsy clamp isn't up to wrangling the heavy cablegrumbler said:The earth isn't connected now?! And the bridge has gone?!WTH is going on?
The bridge is still there, but now bottom left. No idea why the photo was changed0 -
the flex clamp is 100% necessary, 6mm T&E only needs moved by a few cm left and right and it could loosen the connections.grumbler said:WTH is going on?0
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I can't be sure without seeing the original pics and wiring diagrams but stowed at the bottom left of the connector box in the new pic there are a number of metal/copper pieces. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't these used to bridge the terminals when using a single phase supply, eg, you insert the live wire to live 1 and use the link to connect to live 2, the same for neutral and the earth just goes straight to the earth connector.0
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