Boiler Wiring Query

Jeepers_Creepers

Section62 said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

But, don't worry - this is a qualified sparky, and should figure out what's going on. Let's not worry

Eh?  What's happened to the electrician whose workmanship was recently described as "poor, poor, poor"?  Has he been fired from the job now? 

Yawn and booorrrrringgg. S62, the pedant's pedant...

As you know I was referring to the aesthetics of their intended approach, not its technical quality.

If my critique of the use of visible trunking on tiles and the occupation of a wall socket being 'poor, poor, poor, offendeth thee, well, soooorrrreeeyyyy :-)

(I'm the sarcy's sarcy.)

But, I take your point, and trust you will pay as much attention to all electrical posts from now on?

"Hey, forum. I'm getting a sparky in to have an extra socket added - is there anything I should be aware of?"

S62; "Again, for clarity, it isn't a case of 'preferably' - this is a MUST.  The protective device MUST have an appropriate rating for the load and the downstream wiring, up to the point where another protective device (if any) with a lower current rating takes over. It isn't about sensitivity (that's a separate issue), it is about stopping the cable/flex being subjected to a current exceeding its design limit. Danny, the 16 amp rating confirms what I suspected.  You don't need to worry about it, but the electrician should check the cable and if any of it is undersize for 16A then use one of the options I posted previously - i.e. changing the MCB to a lower rating, or retaining the FCU where it is, or upgrading the cable to a size suitable for use with the 16A MCB.The electrician has probably got this covered, but as you want the work done a specific way which the installer initially rejected, you need to be prepared with the right responses if the installer again tells you it can't be done the way you want (once they have started work), because you may not have time to come back here and check. But it's up to you whether you want to now leave it in the installer's hands of course.The electrician is probably competent and knows what he's talking about.  But as I said in a previous post, it is a bit surprising that "we've got to do it this way" has turned into doing it exactly in the way you suggested Danny asks for it to be done, with a level of confidence you could only get after inspecting the installation. Maybe my cynical side is thinking the situation might change back to the installer's preference once the job is started ("we've hit a snag")... or should my charitable side think the electrician will fund all the additional work needed out of their own pocket when they encounter problems?"

(Sound of gunshot from OP's home...)

:-)

Section62

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Section62 said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

But, don't worry - this is a qualified sparky, and should figure out what's going on. Let's not worry

Eh?  What's happened to the electrician whose workmanship was recently described as "poor, poor, poor"?  Has he been fired from the job now? 

Yawn and booorrrrringgg. S62, the pedant's pedant...

As you know I was referring to the aesthetics of their intended approach, not its technical quality.

If my critique of the use of visible trunking on tiles and the occupation of a wall socket being 'poor, poor, poor, offendeth thee, well, soooorrrreeeyyyy :-)

(I'm the scarcy's sarcy.)

But, I take your point, and trust will pay as much attention to all electrical posts from now on?

"Hey, forum. I'm getting a sparky in to have an extra socket added - is there anything I should be aware of?"

S62; "Again, for clarity, it isn't a case of 'preferably' - this is a MUST.  The protective device MUST have an appropriate rating for the load and the downstream wiring, up to the point where another protective device (if any) with a lower current rating takes over. It isn't about sensitivity (that's a separate issue), it is about stopping the cable/flex being subjected to a current exceeding its design limit. Danny, the 16 amp rating confirms what I suspected.  You don't need to worry about it, but the electrician should check the cable and if any of it is undersize for 16A then use one of the options I posted previously - i.e. changing the MCB to a lower rating, or retaining the FCU where it is, or upgrading the cable to a size suitable for use with the 16A MCB.The electrician has probably got this covered, but as you want the work done a specific way which the installer initially rejected, you need to be prepared with the right responses if the installer again tells you it can't be done the way you want (once they have started work), because you may not have time to come back here and check. But it's up to you whether you want to now leave it in the installer's hands of course.The electrician is probably competent and knows what he's talking about.  But as I said in a previous post, it is a bit surprising that "we've got to do it this way" has turned into doing it exactly in the way you suggested Danny asks for it to be done, with a level of confidence you could only get after inspecting the installation. Maybe my cynical side is thinking the situation might change back to the installer's preference once the job is started ("we've hit a snag")... or should my charitable side think the electrician will fund all the additional work needed out of their own pocket when they encounter problems?"

(Sound of gunshot from OP's home...)

:-)

Ah, I was under the impression that "poor, poor, poor" was also a comment on the technical deficiencies in wiring in a permanent appliance (like a boiler) using flex and a 13 amp plug, particularly where the socket being used serves a kitchen work surface where the owner is likely to want to make use of the socket for other things, and therefore might be tempted to unplug the boiler on a regular basis. (neither convenient for the user, nor healthy for modern boilers).

But if your concern was only about aesthetics then I apologise for misunderstanding you.

Although... "...and permanently taking up - a wall socket..."  ...suggests we were on the same track after all. 


Electricity kills people, and burns down people's homes. If there's a place for pedantry, then it is in electrical installation work.

Danny30

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Danny, I think you said earlier on that this circuit was put in by a sparky and it is solely for the use of the boiler - is that so? Ie, that 16A MCB has 'boiler' only written on it?

That would be ideal, but if it's the case, that MCB should preferably be the smallest, a 6A. That would offer the best - most sensitive - protection for the cable, especially if some of it is only 0.5mm as S62 says.

But, don't worry - this is a qualified sparky, and should figure out what's going on. Let's not worry

Yes, the 16 mcb is solely used for the boiler.

On an unrelated subject they have now offered solar panels for the house. I will open a new thread when I can but I am tilting towards turning them down. 

Another_Level

Great to hear there has been some movement with the part p element, oh please remember if you want to keep all the old gas boiler,flue and accessories ask the swapper to remove it carefully its your property and you can retain.

Check out internet adverts, yoursecond hand  (functioning) gas boiler with flue  has a resale value. others will disagree.

Your old boiler and accessories is not being thrown away, they will be markeded on and on.

Great to hear its getting sorted